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sandable vs non-sandable primer


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I will second the Duplicolor automotive primer. If Ive done exstensive body work, Ill use the etching primer first(Then ill use future floor polish as a sealer barrier). After that, I use the sandable, or without body work, I like useing the sandable(filler) primer. I will help in filling in the little sink marks you might not have seen. The only downfall, if applied heavy or multiple coats, you will want to clean out the door seems before adding color. Thanks. Jody

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and it's been my experience that the sandable primers allow you to use hotter[read lacquers]as they are a lacquer base...

the enamel based primers may not hold up to lacquer...

me, myself...i like plasticote T235/236/237/238[grey, black, red, white]....

Edited by weasel
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What are the pros and cons of using either? Also, are there any particular brands that are better than others?

Sandable are thicker as they have a tendency to fill and selflevel..and the non sandable used as a dust coat so you can block everything smooth I start with a couple of coats sandable followed by 2 light coats of non sandable then I like to block and smooth then followed by a coat of sealer followed by white base if painting light. I use duplacolor and HOK

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I use both. Sandable (thin coats)if I used body filler and / or have some imperfections to fix, followed by a thin coat or two of sealer. I like the Duplicolor sealer primer because it's thin and won't hide the details in the body.

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Plasticote-sandable-white primer only.

I have had a problem with Dupli-color not curing to a hard finish on plastic so I quit using it. I had 3 other modeling friends (yeah, I only have 4 friends, good thing 3 of them are model builders) have the exact same problem. I was able to put my finger nail into the primer and leave a mark SEVEN days later. Plasicote did not do this. So my vote is Plasticote.

How we doing on the vote?

David

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Plasticote-sandable-white primer only.

I have had a problem with Dupli-color not curing to a hard finish on plastic so I quit using it. I had 3 other modeling friends (yeah, I only have 4 friends, good thing 3 of them are model builders) have the exact same problem. I was able to put my finger nail into the primer and leave a mark SEVEN days later. Plasicote did not do this. So my vote is Plasticote.

How we doing on the vote?

David

fellas,

Are you shooting the Plasticoat out of a spray can or do you guys use airbrushes ?

thanks,

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I shoot it right out the can. Works fine for me and easy to store whats left over. Sprays well and covers excellently right out the can and since I sand the heck out of it, perfect coverage isnt all that critical.

Brian,

Thanks, I'll go buy some this week.

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fellas,

Are you shooting the Plasticoat out of a spray can or do you guys use airbrushes ?

thanks,

Don't ask me to tell you how I decant. Last week in a thread http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29246 I think I made enough people mad to start a small army!!!! Please enjoy!

But most of the time, I decant. If it's a part that I just need to hit with some primer and know that I will sand it or it really doesn't matter, I will use the primer straight from the can. I even have better results with Tamiya primer that I have taken out of the can. It will lay down better with an airbrush and has a smoother, less course finish from an airbrush than the can. You will know this when you shoot it because out of the can, it dries flat, and out of my airbrush it dries shiny. I have taken all of the propellant out, true, but it lays down better out of my brush. Almost don't have to sand it sometimes because it is so smooth.

Once again, just my technique.

David

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OK its been a few days and I was finally able to go to wally world and get some Primer. I picked up some Krylon white primer. I noticed on the back it didn't say anything about using it on plastic. In fact it said everything BUT plastic. It also said for use on NON-POROUS surfaces. my question is, is plastic (styrene) porous or non porous?

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