I don't get this

[my 70 chevelle ss]

I'm sorry but maybe it's my Brooklyn attitude or that I'm just stupid but I read somewhere on here that spraying clear coat over the decals can make them crackle. This happened to me once but did not know why. I read that clear coat is HOT I have no clue what this means but OK so much for that. I know I will not get very many replies on this but I just killed myself putting decals on a model I'm doing.So what I would like to ask is do I have to wait before spraying Clear Coat over the decals? & is there a secret to spraying Clear coat over the decals?

Thank you

Will,

[59 Impala]

You have to wait for the decals to dry before you spray anything over them. But what I would use is Future floor polish instead of clear. Future is an Acrylic and won't hurt the decals, but you still have to wait for the decals to dry before applying the Future.

Dan

[38 Crush]

You can use clear coat just spray it on lightly with even coats about 20 minutes apart. The reason It's called Hot is because it dries fast because of the amount of Thinner in it. Just take it easy and you shouldn't have a problem. I usually Thin mine out a little using an airbrush. But if your shooting through a can you can' do that.

38 Crush

[vaughn]

did a jimmie johnson nascar with a billion decals.....used Solvaset and let it dry for a few days....sprayed with clear and everything is fine. I have read so many tips...solutions and tecniques on this site, its unreal. I realy think that its a lot trial and error and the use of everyones ideas.... its model car building!! Dont take the fun out of what you are doing. Experiment and have fun...what works for some, might not work for you. Its not rocket science....have fun, you might come up with something that is new to everyone !!

[my 70 chevelle ss]

No I have no problem waiting I do not have an Air Brush so I would have no way of spraying on the Future plus I would like to do that on a junk model first. So my only alternative is to use the Tamyia Clear Thank you for explaining hot. I'm just worried now as I have used Tamyia Clear many times in past & once had the decals crackle so it sort of puts the fear of God in u. I will Wait 3 days then do as you all said maybe someday I will buy an air brush & try that Future. Please wish me luck!. Thank you all! Will,

[mageckman]

Will, you can apply Future with a brush. You don't have to use an airbrush. I have actually had better luck with brushing it on than airbrushing it. You've kinda gotta experiment with it a little bit. Good luck and hope this helps. Mageck

[Guest]

The solvents in a laquer based clearcoat, depending on the brand of paint can react with the carrier film and inks in the decals, wrinkling them, it's the same process that will cause a lauer paint to wrinkle a enamel paint if you spray it over it. Always test a spare decal before spraying clear over it. Letting the decal sit 24 hours allows the decal to dry, and stick to themodel better, but will not guarentee no reaction from the clear coat.

[Smart-Resins]

Alright, I am no pro! But here is what I have learned. Let the decals dry completely! If you have a dehydrator, a hour or so on low. You probably do not, so wait about a full day(24 hours). If youuse solvaset or the like to help adhere your decals to the model, this helps them also, but they still need to be completly dry! Now for the clear coats, I really would not suggest laquar clear as it is HOT. Now this is referring to the chemical reaction that takes place durring its cure or dry time! There is more chemical reaction with the laquar, therefore allowing it to soften and have a chemical reaction with the decals! If you wait a proper amount of time, you can use the enamel clear over it with no problems. If useing acrylic paint instead of enamel, you can use a acrylic clear over them. I too use Pledge with future. Very cheap and works great!. You dont have a air brush, no problem. get your self a cheap bowl, or a used bowl or what have you and pour some in! get yourself a cheap fifty cent foam brush and use that to brush on the future. Also by using the future and a polishing set up, you can also get great shines! Pick up a micro mesh polishing kit( i use the one with the rubber foam polishing/sanding pads) or some fine grit sand paper from the auto store. Get a coupel thousand grit paper. Spray your color, then a coat or two of the clear(wich is suggested before applying decals anyways! Then do a light sanding on the clear coat also referred to as polishing to smooth it out before applying the decals After drying for a day, apply another two coats of clear. If using the future, you will not want to polish it out! But you can take a very soft cotton rag and wet it and buff the future out to a terrific shine! More times then not, the future under the decal, then future over the decal will help eliminate any white edges on older decals! I have only had a problem once with the white edges, but that was on a 96 hour build off. yes I used my dehydrator, but I still pushed the time and paid for it! I do hope this helps. Any questions, I am sure others will chime in with what they use and how it works for them! The main thing is, we are all different, so you have to find what works for you tht you can do and enjoy doing! Thanks. Jody

[Karmodeler2]

I'm sorry but maybe it's my Brooklyn attitude or that I'm just stupid but I read somewhere on here that spraying clear coat over the decals can make them crackle. This happened to me once but did not know why. I read that clear coat is HOT I have no clue what this means but OK so much for that. I know I will not get very many replies on this but I just killed myself putting decals on a model I'm doing.So what I would like to ask is do I have to wait before spraying Clear Coat over the decals? & is there a secret to spraying Clear coat over the decals?

Thank you

Will,

Will,

as others have said, the word "hot" often refers to the chemical reaction between solvents, or decals or both. Lacquers tend to be a lot "hotter" because of the chemical makeup of the product and the real stuff (automotive lacquers/reducers/thinners) can be so hot that they actually will melt plastic. I have poured enamel bases where I have used a reducer so hot, it melted the cup it was in and spilled all over my workbench. Yes, they were the cheap cups I use for mixing resin and I get them at Wal mart....the ones you use in the bathroom or at the kitchen sink. I should have know better.

I will tell you that I have had the Tamiya Clear (TS-13) eat my decals every time, regardless of how long I waited to clear them. If you take the clear out of the spray can and let it sit in a jar for about 45 minutes, you will get rid of some of the "hot" solvent in this paint.

The best advice I can give you is to get a pack of white spoons and do a full spray out job on the back of the spoon (primer too), let it dry, put some decals that you don't plan on using onto the spoon, let dry and then spray your clear on top of the decals. This way, you do not ruin the model and you can do several spoons with different clears to see which clear(s) are compatible and won't ruin your model. Write on the inside of the spoon what you did and drill a hole in the handle and hang them up as reference.

Enamels, for the most part, and urethanes are very docile and tend to go over decals easily. I will tell you that you will definitely need to wait the 24 hours if not longer. I was impatient one day and shot the clear on decals that had not dried and had MAJOR pin holes and fish eyes (separation of the paint that has the appearance of an oval look, and not a round pin hole) and it took twice as long to let that dry, sand, re clear and finish the model. Save yourself the heartache and wait it out.

David

[my 70 chevelle ss]

Ok here is the deal the decals are on the model it's been four days. I did not use solvoset as I have never heard of it. The car was painted Tamyia Pearl White & always thought you put the decals on then spray the clear coat (Tamyia) over them. This is how I have done it in the past. But have not built as many cars as you all have now I'm really worried about spraying the Clear see I never heard of this before so I guess it's like what you don't know can't hurt you. Having said this should I buy a air brush & use Future I have never used an air brush before. So if this is the way to go what is a good air brush & how easy are they to learn to use? Also what else would I need to get & if so how do you thin out the Future? Any info on this would be great Thank you very much!

[Smart-Resins]

I think most people who own a airbrush would suggest one! I find it much better. Do you need one to do a awesome model. Heck no! Do you need one to do future, no. You have to remember this stuff is make to MOP on and dry to a nice shine! You dont even need to buff it! just put on a couple of layers! LOL. Very easy to use. Just brush on with a bigger brush or a sponge brush. I do suggest one coat over the color, then one over the decals! With waiting, that has never failed me yet. Thanks. Jody

[old-hermit]

If you're just gonna spray floor polish out of it you can get a cheap air brush and canned propellent for less than $25.00

http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/8821x.aspx

If you're going for long term use ya need to educate yourself.

Buy the cheap one and play with it to see if you really want to invest in a good setup.

PS, as stated before, you can brush on Future Floor polish. It's self leveling.

I set the body on an up ended brick in a plastic bowl and pour it on. Of course I'm lazy.

[Smart-Resins]

By the way, I have a very nice NIB Kustom Kolor single action air brush, that you can hook up to a propelent system. I can make ya a deal on it since I need some money for my other hobby and current 1:1 project, I can sell it to ya for $10 plus shipping. Thanks. Jody

[my 70 chevelle ss]

By the way, I have a very nice NIB Kustom Kolor single action air brush, that you can hook up to a propelent system. I can make ya a deal on it since I need some money for my other hobby and current 1:1 project, I can sell it to ya for $10 plus shipping. Thanks. Jody

Hi Jody,

Yes I'll buy it. Let me know how we can work this & I'll buy it. Does it come with some kind of instructions? as I have been looking at diffrent ones & I just want something cheap to get my feet wet then maybe move up. Let me know cause I will buy this off you.

Thank you very much!

Will,

[my 70 chevelle ss]

By the way, I have a very nice NIB Kustom Kolor single action air brush, that you can hook up to a propelent system. I can make ya a deal on it since I need some money for my other hobby and current 1:1 project, I can sell it to ya for $10 plus shipping. Thanks. Jody

I had to check if u would like u can email me I guess u just have to click on my name I see I have my email it's up to u but you have made my night as I do not want to ruin this model.

Will,

Edited April 6, 2010 by my 70 chevelle ss

[charlzrocks]

I use Future to clear coat all my builds for two reasons. It's a pretty inert acrylic (no thinners, etc needed) and I can just apply it with a brush because it is self leveling. Just let the first coat dry completly and apply the second coat.

[Smart-Resins]

Message sent! Thanks. Jody

[my 70 chevelle ss]

Message sent! Thanks. Jody

Hi Jody,

I did not get your email could u try again I would like to get this in motion. My email is chevelle70ss@verizon.net Thanks Will,

[hemithunder]

If you're just gonna spray floor polish out of it you can get a cheap air brush and canned propellent for less than $25.00

http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/8821x.aspx

If you're going for long term use ya need to educate yourself.

Buy the cheap one and play with it to see if you really want to invest in a good setup.

PS, as stated before, you can brush on Future Floor polish. It's self leveling.

I set the body on an up ended brick in a plastic bowl and pour it on. Of course I'm lazy.

Lazy.. nah. It's called C.D.T. Constructive Deligation of Time

[Ddms]

U-POL Powercan clearcoat isn't as "hot" as TS-13, and it gives a beautiful deep gloss with a minimum of orange peel. You can get it at Sam Ditchek & Sons. Ditchek must be a good store because it's in Brooklyn, N.Y.

[robertw]

I've used rattle can Tamiya Clear several times over decals but what I've done is several very light coats and shot from further back then let each of these coats dry for about a day. Finally after 5 or 6 of these I've shot several heavier ones before I polished. A lot of extra work I realize but it has worked for me.

rob

[wgflatliner]

i know it's been beaten with a dead horse, but light coats over completely cured decals helps.

however, i don't use tamiya clear sometimes. Other times i'll get the model master ultra high gloss enamel. It takes about a week to cure without a dehydrator but IMO it looks awesome.

i think it also lays down a little thicker so it makes wet sanding a little less tedious, if you wet sand yourself. that's been my experience anyways.

let us know how it goes!