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How would one go about adding rivet detail back onto a truck model? I had to remove some rivet detail when I joined the sleepers on my Kenworth W900Aerodyne (to stretch it)? Does Tichy Trains still operate and sell stuff like this, does saurkraut sell them? Any tips, tricks, ideas, or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

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You can get the rivets from Tichy....I use the brass rivets from scale hardware when mastering....you can also get a rivet (dimple) press from micro mark..........matt

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For another option, Archer makes rivet decals. These are actually resin and have depth to them. I'm not sure how they would look compared to the original rivets, but these are a simple way to add good looking rivet detail. I've only used their weld decals and these are spectacular and as simple to apply as decals.

Edited by Foxer

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As Matt mentioned, I use Tichy rivets to replace or replicate rivets where needed. It can be a lot of work, but it's worth the extra effort to make that detail stand out.

Here are couple pics of the rivets in my '55 Jaguar D-Type build that's in my signature.............

P5070349-vi.jpg

P5070348-vi.jpg

P5070331-vi.jpg

IIRC, they come in different diameters and come on a tree for easy cutting.

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I also prefer using thick super glue applied using a sharp-pointed object. I find I can control the size of the simulated rivet pretty well this way. It's also very inexpensive. Those Archer transfers look really cool though.

Bryan

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you can also get a rivet (dimple) press from micro mark..........matt

I'm not sure if this is what Matt (the other Matt, not me! :P ) was talking about, but this is a ponce wheel.

HPIM1777.jpg

HPIM1778.jpg

Since you said you were stretching a sleeper, you could use the ponce wheel and some .005 or .010 evergreen sheet plastic and reskin the sides where you removed the rivets. I have found the ponce wheel will not work on more than about .010 sheet, the rest is too thick. You can find these in craft and fabric stores. There is also a smooth version for making ribs in trailer sides. I'm working on my own stretched sleeper in my current project as well.

HPIM1736.jpg

I found through my research, though, very few custom sleepers have much rivet detail! Here's a few sites I found for custom sleepers, and you'll see most have smooth side walls.

http://trucksleeper.com/

http://legacysleepers.com/

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The Tichy rivets look to be too big to me. According to their website, they start at .020, which would be 1/2" in 1/25. The Archer ones go down to .008, which would be .2 in 1/25.

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Thanks for the replies guys...looks like it is time for me to stop by the hobby shop or go online to see what I can find. I got the gaps filled and the bodylines matched up/smoothed out on the sleeper tonight, so it is time to start putting some of the removed detail back on before paint.

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I use Titchy Train Group's rivets. Granted they are slightly out of scale but I'm content w/ the results.

Here's a Revell snap tite 359 I made a day cab out of adding rivets.

3050715231_0426900319_b.jpg3050714367_2a10937510_b.jpg3073096772_115f262d7d_o.jpg2996458127_fe4e16393c_b.jpg

Edited by Semi Trailer Mechanic

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Following up to my first post here are some more examples of how I used these rivets. Also a company called Grandt Line makes rivets as well.

3894341227_a6a718a9bb_b.jpg

NOTE THE STEER AXLE LUGS ... I used these to simulate the round lug nut covers. Including the hub cap mounting bolts if you look close enough.

4160281270_f1c2e85cc5_b.jpg

On this one I used those rivets on the scuff liner and on the plywood.

3893926883_baede8c1a0_b.jpg

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W T F, that blue peterbuilt looks like you plastered it with 2 inch bolts, couldn't you get anything smaller, to at least look "in scale" ?

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Why don't you post some of your "perfect" models so we can critisize those? Have respect for others he already said they were out of scale but he like them and that is all that counts.

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Thinking out loud...I wonder if someone makes a rub-on decal kinda thing. I remember back in the 80s they sold rub-on lettering but also had architectural detail sheets with just about any shape, line, texture, etc. If they had a sheet of dotted lines that were little circles it might work... not sure if they would show up under thick paint though.

John

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Why don't you post some of your "perfect" models so we can critisize those? Have respect for others he already said they were out of scale but he like them and that is all that counts.

I second that motion!!

W T F, that blue peterbuilt looks like you plastered it with 2 inch bolts, couldn't you get anything smaller, to at least look "in scale" ?

W T F, can NO ONE on this site spell PETERBILT right!!! I think mackinac 359 is the only other person I've seen who knows there is no "U" in Peterbilt!!

Edited by highway

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Grandt Line makes a lot of good stuff. They make nuts and bolt heads too, although I usually use the Plastruct styrene hex rod for that. More sizes & cheaper.

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W T F, that blue peterbuilt looks like you plastered it with 2 inch bolts, couldn't you get anything smaller, to at least look "in scale" ?

you seem to post negative comments everytime you post. i say put up or shut up. the moderators need to get rid of you anyway, but before they do let's see your "great builds". it's ok to offer constructive critisism but you are taking it way too far.

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Semi Trailer Mechanic: thank you for positively adding to the content of this thread with not only pics, but personal observations and reviews of the products you used.

mardtrp: don't know what rag you were on when posting, but get off it quick. Yes, they may be somewhat out of scale, but at least they are an option I wouldn't have known about before they were shown.

To those who have positively contributed to this, I extend a hearty 'Thank You' to you for all of your assistance.

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I would go for the tichy or grandt line rivets. They offer many sizes, so you should find what you need.

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I have some of the Archer rivets that I will be tring on my Prosleeper, hopefully this weekend. I'll let you know how they turn out!

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My buddy jim bought the archer rivets. They go on fine..but hiding the decal film is a bear. decal softer ends up softening it, but the rivet heads come off the decal film!

Hasnt tried dullcoat, clearcoat or future yet though.

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I'll be watching with interest, as either is better than nothing at all! Thanks guys.

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W T F, that blue peterbuilt looks like you plastered it with 2 inch bolts, couldn't you get anything smaller, to at least look "in scale" ?

laugh.gif NOW THAT'S FUNNY I DON'T CARE WHO YA ARE!!!

Edited by Semi Trailer Mechanic

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I've only tried the Archer weld decals and those I had no problem with the film showing. I trimmed very close to the welds and they got one coat of paint .. fairly thin as I didn't want to obscure the welds. In the following photo the welds go around the door as if it was welded up. These are the fine Archer welds. I would be concerned with getting them "locked down" to the surface. They didn't really stick perfectly, as Ryan mentions. I used some decal set VERY gingerly in spots. I wouldn't cover the whole decal at once with setting solution. Work in small areas as needed to get the film to lay down. They defiantly need at least one coat of paint to hold everything down and seal, but I'd expect any rivet application would need paint. Just don't use a lot of paint over them. Maybe even wait until some paint is down and apply before last coat.

Dec31_DSC3506.jpg

Edited by Foxer

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