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How to use Future floor wax

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Hi guys I have been building models for 20 yrs + and had my share of clear coats go bad tried several clear coat products and some very good results.I've read alot about this stuff on the forum and how poeple are saying use a air brush (I got one but air conpressor is broke :( )I was wondering if I can use a spray bottle or if anyone had good results using a brush :) ? Any help would be very greatful... :)

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Jason, here's the complete lowdown on Future.

Hope this helps!

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Thank you very much Bill and Jody for the info. it realy helped me understand this stuff... :)

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Jason, here's the complete lowdown on Future.

Hope this helps!

never saw this one before....but it is still "Swanee"

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I use it all the time....just brush it in as it's self leveling acrylic!

I use it for clear coat as well as tinting windshields.

To tint the windshield, first dip the windshield in Future and let it drain off, blott the thin edges with a paper towel to avoid pooling. Let it dry for a few hours. Then add food dye to some Future and repeat the first part. Let Dry. Repeat if needed. If you mess it up, just take a cotton swab and wipe it off with clear future and re apply!

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I use it all the time....just brush it in as it's self leveling acrylic!

I use it for clear coat as well as tinting windshields.

To tint the windshield, first dip the windshield in Future and let it drain off, blott the thin edges with a paper towel to avoid pooling. Let it dry for a few hours. Then add food dye to some Future and repeat the first part. Let Dry. Repeat if needed. If you mess it up, just take a cotton swab and wipe it off with clear future and re apply!

So it doest show any brush lines and do you have to polish it out?

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My experience, though I primarily airbrush it onto things, is that yes, it flows like very thinned out nail polish. I say that in the sense that yes it does self level out! If you do not get the consistancy or shine that you want, just add another layer until you get close to it! Also, I have found that NO you can not polish it out with conventional methods that most use. However, you can take a damp soft cotton pice and rub it out to a higher shine! You can also use future as a sealer/barrier. If you do some body work, removing lines or chrome, or doing kustom body work. Once you have it smoothed out, you can use the future to seal it so that there are no ghost lines from the model later on! Thanks. Jody

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Jason here is my test run on future. The shine is great but it left bubbles everywhere. You can see model boxes in the reflection. Maybe its the brush I used? I won't give up I think I was actually to sparing and did not put it on thick enough to 'level" ?? DSC02382.jpgDSC02386.jpg I am just tyring to figure out how to brush to cause this seems to be a subject most leave alone ;)

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The next time you are over I'll show you the brush I use and it seems to work pretty well, I have never tried to airbrush it yet.

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Jason here is my test run on future. The shine is great but it left bubbles everywhere. You can see model boxes in the reflection. Maybe its the brush I used? I won't give up I think I was actually to sparing and did not put it on thick enough to 'level" ?? I am just tyring to figure out how to brush to cause this seems to be a subject most leave alone unsure.gif

Hey Brian..the trick is not the brush BUT the LIQUID!...I learned that you must brush it on slow and heavy...and if you see bubbles in the container that your brushing from...your gonna get them in the finish. BUT..with future just strip it off with windex and reapply. I have found two coats applied with a soft 2" brush will work quite well....you put it on thick and as it levels it will leave thicker spots in places like corners and edges...GENTLY wick the excess away I use the corner of a paper towel...and let it dry...leave it alone to dry overnight!!

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I dunno,but my wife just pours it on the floor right from the bottle,then spreads it around with a mop/ oh come on,SOMEBODY hadta say it (GRIN).......'Z'

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I also just use a large (1/4" maybe?) soft brush. I tend to use a white nylon brush because it doesn't shed little bits of hair and any dirt or dust is easy to spot before you start brushing. Except for the size brush I use the technique described by Mike.

You can also dip small parts like headlights, windshields etc. It actually makes the clear parts more clear and they look thinner even though you added a layer of clear. This also helps to remove the small nicks and scratches you often find if the clear parts are not bagged seperately. I have a wide mouth jar I keep the Future in, then leave the part / parts on a piece of sprue for a handle and dip them into the future. I shake off as much back into the jar as I can then just touch the corners where the Future accumulates to a paper towel which draws the excess away. Then I just hang it by the sprue until dry.

Besides making the clear parts look better it also protects them from glue fumes and paint. Dipping the clear parts is now my first job when I start a kit, because if I touch them and have a little glue or paint on my hand I can easily clean it off with a little windex on a paper towel and start over instead of destroying the part.

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I want to say thanks for the help. I know it's Jasons thread but I want it to help him too. There were no bubbles in the bottle as it was a fresh bottle however from what I'm reading I think I was to sparing on it. I did not put it on very thick and I think thats what allowed the bubbles in there. I'll try to strip it with windex and try again. Thanks for the advise and good luck Jason!

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Hi guys I have been building models for 20 yrs + and had my share of clear coats go bad tried several clear coat products and some very good results.I've read alot about this stuff on the forum and how poeple are saying use a air brush (I got one but air conpressor is broke :( )I was wondering if I can use a spray bottle or if anyone had good results using a brush :) ? Any help would be very greatful... :)

I have been using Future on my builds.And how I do it is DIP the whole body that is and only the body. Just like the 1/1. I'll paint, apply the decales and even the chrome,then I dip it in the Future sit to dry on some paper towels and cover lit dry for 12-24 hrs.it work very wall this way it is clean and fast,pour the what is lift back in the bottle.

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