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INSPIRED THINKING- Cheap Tips for Frugal Modelers


62rebel

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inspired, of course, by an impecuniary position; i wandered the aisles of the hobby shop and began to wonder where else i had seen materials similar to those offered at such highly exorbitant prices in the LHS...
Jaffa touched on this recently and i'm sure many of us have scoured the various aisles of wallyworld etc only to find many of the same products that we use under hobby pretext in much less expensive branding in other areas of the store. yes; we are pretty much bound to LHS pricing for quality kits and paint, but for a great deal of detailing stock it pays to search elsewhere! milliput, for example, sells for 10-12 bucks/pkg at LHS (when they HAVE it) while fine-grain white epoxy sells for 2 bucks/pkg over in the automotive/boating section of wally world. see where i'm heading?
we have it pretty good in car modeling; i've seen little bags of common twigs sold for 8-10 bucks (!!!) as HO scale logs for model railroading...
i must have a million bucks' worth in the back yard alone!

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Yep, theres a lot of stuff cheaper elsewhere...

Craft stores... beads, hose and wire, etc...

The makeup dept... tools! clippers, files and emory boards, putty spatulas, brushes... Just take your wife/GF so you don't look like a wierdo!

Big Box stores... auto depts usually have cheaper paints and fillers... plastic bins, tons of other things if you look around.

Yardage stores... cloth, glues, thread...

Radio shack type stores... wire, coax, resistors...

Theres a ton of stuff out there if you have the time to look for it!

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  • 2 months later...

I get pints of Acrylic cement from plastics suppliers for about $10. It beats the h*ll out of those little 2 or 3 oz bottles of Cement at the LHS for $3-4.00 each. Don't skimp on paint, however. That is your basic false economy. Costs you in the end because your paint job sucks. I have seen guys do that time and again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Good Thread here. I went to Walmart the other day and bought some black women panty hose to use on grill and such. You should have seen the look on some of the clerks faces....I didn't care, because the small 25 cent package would have cost oh...I don't know 5 or 6 bucks easy at a LHS, it you could find something like that there. So out the door I went with a big smile on my face, knowing I just saved a bunch of money.

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I like shopping at beauty supply stores. The sanding sticks are better, totally washable and usually go for around a buck each. Of course cut rate nail polish is great to paint with.

They also have handy (purse) size CA glues, jewel thingys for tailights, appliques, etc. The only thing I didn't like was the nail polish thinner (butyl acetate) which gave me a less than perfectly smooth finish.

Bob

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Another great place to check is the jewelry making aisles of Hobby Lobby (or similar type store). Tons of little doodads and gadgets, beads, hardware, lengths of chain and braided wire, etc. etc., and generally each product is sold in a little bag for just a buck or two tops!

For instance, I found nylon braided line (for stringing beads) that, when painted with good old Testor's silver, looks exactly like scale braided line...at a cost of a few pennies per model. A bag of assorted size doll "google eyes" can be used to make eveything from headlight buckets to hubcaps. There's a lot of stuff to be found there!

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I found an easy solution for weathering my trucks. I don't really do heavily/overweathered truck models, but even a clean rig like mine picks up dust and dirt. You know those weathering powders and such cost money at the hobby shop. I usually use the dirt, oil and such from my rig. Like 5th wheel grease, for instance. All I have to do is take my 1/25 scale 5th wheel, press it against my real trucks 5th wheel, and there you have it, a greased 5th wheel. Dirt off of the frame of my rig finds its way to the corresponding places on my 1/25 truck frames. I did inherit some stuff from my stepfather when he passed away, but I can still save a few dollars, instead of buying the expensive hobby shop stuff. For Oil leaks on a model , take some off of your car's dipstick and apply with a brush. It doesn't get more real than that. Sometimes, just look around your house, garage, car(or in my case, my rig), because you would be amazed at what you already have. That to me is the first place to look, is at the things you already have. You never know what's laying around the house or garage that can save you some some money. I once took a small scrap of cloth off of an old quilt that was being thrown away, and the sleeper in one of my trucks had a "real" blanket on the bed. If you do thinhs like that, you save.

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  • 3 years later...

I used to do lowriders all the time but never could get them done (lost steam). I always seemed to veer towards my junkers(I find them more fun). When I got back into models I promised myself and my wife no more show cars. lol. I do have alot of lowbuck tricks tho, just need to drudge them back up. Most of mine are low-buck or self taught since I have always been too cheap to buy other peoples stuff. lol. Here is a couple, and I will add more as I remember. The ones I post pics for will be very low detail or junk parts. Keep in mind these are only to give you more idea and I will probably trash these when i am done. Use these basic ideas and let your imagination go wild. I am not real experienced in making internet videos and the like but down the road, I may make some to help with explaining and get experience. but for now please try to be happy with my pics and crude drawings. lol

#1

curved lowrider seats:

like these: http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad8/modelsinc1967/lowrider%20interior%20pics/2010-10-01133501-1-1.jpg

I am going to try to describe this good enough no pics are needed. First off determine how big around the base of your seat needs to be. You can use styrene or just about any raw meterial, but me being cheap, I usually find an object that size (pill bottle lid, button, model wheel, etc). For this example we will use a button.

I then find a cylinder item for a form (dowel rod, marker, etc)cylinder should be close to the same size as the button (not exact but close, when given a choice I prefer a little bigger rather than a little small.)we will use a marker.

next you will need to determine how tall your seats need to be. this example will be just under 2". Cut 2 strips of foam plate (like for picnics)at 2" X 2" (these lengths can be whatever you want) and cut strips of styrene the same size. You can use just about any thickness of styrene but thiner seems to bend better.

cover one of the foam pieces with glue of your choice. and wrap around the marker(glue side away from marker). then apply glue to styrene and lay on top of the foam (repat with styrene until desired thickness). End by wrapping other piece of foam with glued side in. let dry. you may use tape or clothespin or anything you desire to hold evrything together until glue dries.

Once dry remove tape and remove foam/styrene back. cut back /tube into desired shape, and glue button/bottom to back. you can then detail the foam to look like upohsltrey(ms) like in this tutorial:http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=39688 you could do the lines before glueing if you prefer.

If you decide you want mirrored edges like the example above you can run bmf around the edge and use thin round styrene for piping.

let me know if you need a better explanation.

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#2

swivel seats

most lowrider cars that use seats like the ones posted above prefer to have them swivel so they turn towards the door to aide in getting out. here is a VERY easy way to replicate this.

go to a craft shop and buy a pack of snaps (like used for the top button on work shirts etc.). glue the male end to the floor and the female end to the seat. snap together. done. it is very easy and really blows people away when they are use to seeing them glued solid. the best part is you can do it very early on in the mock up and unsnap them for paint.

this can be used for seats, turrets, and just about anything that needs to spin. Also make sure you spend a little extra and buy a good quality snap. this sounds silly but the real cheap ones have alot of wobble in them.

here is some pics that may help for explaining.( as if it is needed lol)

100_0271.jpg

100_0273.jpg

NOTE: I JUST NOTICED I DID THE EXAMPLE BACKWARDS PUT THE PART WITH THE NUB ON THE FLOOR NOT THE SEAT!!!!! --sorry

Edited by hoopty388
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I agree awesome idea and a cheap one at that.

thanks guys......

I get nervous posting lowbuck tips, since most people who like lowrideers think $=cool lol

(don't think I'm stereotyping but. go to a show and you understand where I'm coming from)

anywho, Thank you for the props and I will watch the builds and try to remember more low-buck tips :P

---stay cheap :lol:

Edited by hoopty388
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Tip 1

Homemade Mold Release Romver

What's needed:

Small bottle of no-name brand of dish soap

A spray bottle

Water

Common Sense :lol:

Dump about halve of the bottle of dish soap into the spray bottle, fill with water, shake, and your done.

Price for this: $2.00

Tip 2

Flocking Shaker

What's Needed:

A small-empty salt shaker

Put flocking in the salt shaker, you now have a instant flocking shaker!

Price for this tip? Right Here: $1.00

Total: $3.00

Edited by Master Modeller
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Pam cooking spray also works good for a cheap mold release agent. I think I picked a can of the Walmart brand cooking spray for maybe a dollar or two.

One more cheap trick from my file, aluminum foil and a spray on glue works nicely for cheap BMF, especially if you are doing large areas like I did on the side and roof of this trailer.

HPIM1580.jpg

Here's the glue I used for it.

HPIM1578.jpg

The nice thing with using aluminum foil, especially in this case, is you have a choice of two finishes, I used the shiny side for the side walls and the dull side for the roof. I did learn, since that was my first attempt using aluminum foil, make sure to coat the foil evenly with the glue, I didn't do that on the roof and sprayed it a little too thin, and the foil bubbled where I didn't have enough glue sprayed on it. WHOOPS!!! :lol:

HPIM1576.jpg

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I think you are better off investing in a toothbrush instead of the spray bottle for mold release removal. You can even use an old one for free if you want super cheap... Might be an excuse to go to the dentist? Here's another tip, use the new one for oral hygiene. :lol:

I just use the detergent from the dispenser it comes in...

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Pam cooking spray also works good for a cheap mold release agent. I think I picked a can of the Walmart brand cooking spray for maybe a dollar or two.

One more cheap trick from my file, aluminum foil and a spray on glue works nicely for cheap BMF, especially if you are doing large areas like I did on the side and roof of this trailer.

HPIM1580.jpg

Here's the glue I used for it.

HPIM1578.jpg

The nice thing with using aluminum foil, especially in this case, is you have a choice of two finishes, I used the shiny side for the side walls and the dull side for the roof. I did learn, since that was my first attempt using aluminum foil, make sure to coat the foil evenly with the glue, I didn't do that on the roof and sprayed it a little too thin, and the foil bubbled where I didn't have enough glue sprayed on it. WHOOPS!!! :lol:

HPIM1576.jpg

just wanted to say I really like the truck and trailer

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