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Another Studio 27 Build

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This is their new Ferrari Daytona 365 GTB4 Competizione from LeMans in 1973.

Beautiful two-tone paint job.

Didn't know it was two tone until I had painted all the red first.

The yellow went down on top of the red, very surprised it worked as well as it did

FerrariDaytona#37.jpg

Couple tricks with these or other decals, slice them where the panel lines.

I have seen too many decals that just lay over a hood or door line, just doesn't look right. These have to be some of the best if not the best decals I have ever used. No outlines, or clear around edges of decals.

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Posted · Report post

Looking superb! I'm also surprised how often people don't trim the decals along panel lines. Some decals are far easier to trim than others, and it can be tricky...one wrong slip and there could be a big problem.

Are the seats and lots of parts white metal? That is one material that I wish never was discovered by model producers, as the part finish is always rougher than resin, finishing is a tedious and often thankless job. Too many model companies use it as a crutch to add weight and cut down their production costs/time. I have one Model Factory Hiro kit and I despise the parts that are white metal, they would have been so much nicer had they been produced in resin. So many superb parts in resin/photoetch/machined aluminum and then you look at the white metal parts and they don't even begin to compare.

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I agree, with only the body, dash, and chassis plate in resin, it does make it challenging.

I have found that the automotive primer surfacer, not sealer, works the best on the metal parts.

I am still experimenting with soldering white metal, don't yell, I am using the resistance soldering set.

It works fantastic on photoetch, have to practice more on white-metal

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Nice!!

I have the HRM transkit and a Fujimi spyder kit, gonna build #5373, the Begian Ecurie Francorchamps entry that finished eigth in the '72 LeMans 24hrs.

Be sure to post pics when finished!

Brian

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Posted · Report post

Looks fantastic Gregg. Thanks for the tip about the decals.

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Posted · Report post

Another fine looking build. Very cool color combo.

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Posted · Report post

your yellow looks very nice here. could you share some tips on getting yellow to cover? ive never had much luck with it no matter what i do. i read somewhere to lay down a base of gold and shoot yellow over it but that didnt really help. it always seems to disappear from the highlights and pool up (and eventually run) in the low areas or along the rocker panels.

keep in mind i dont have an airbrush but use buzz cans. that makes it difficult to build up paint coats because so much comes out at once and if you step back and try to dust it on it is never very smooth even with a final flow coat.

so whats the secret?

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like I said, I had shot the red already and had polished it out, then found out 2/3 of the car has to be yellow.

I was going to tape car up and lay down white primer base, but thought, what the heck. Try it!

I washed it, let it dry, then taped it up.

I let Tamiya Yellow sit in sink of hot tap water. You know can is ready when you shake it and it doesn't turn cold. If it turns cold, keep it in water longer.

I sprayed very light coats, one every five minutes.

That was the key, go slow, and let the paint gas out.

It covered the red well, which really surprised me. The red is Tamiya Itallian Red, both spray cans.

Seriously, it was a piece of cake, one light mist coat or pass at a time.

I never made two passes (that cute girl at the bar don't count) on any panel untill car was completly covered, or the 2/3 of the car anyway.

To help the tape guide, I scanned the decals for the Italian flag down the body, printed it, and cut it out to use as a template.

I always use Tamiya tape to tape off anything.

I rub every single milimeter of the taped area with a rounded/sanded toothpick. This leaves a near perfect tape line.

After dried for couple hours, there was a slight paint build up, but I rubbed it with polishing cloth and it went away.

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Posted · Report post

Great job Gregg I always liked the Daytona and I agree about slicing the

decals I also do military models and I see people do it there also.

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thanks for that gregg. yeah i always warm up my paint cans in warm water to increase pressure and aid in paint flow.

i think in essence my problem is patience. lack of patience to be more precise. everytime i go to paint something i think "okay only a little at a time" but before you know it im shooting a "flow coat"!

thanks again, that yellow sure looks nice over the red. that sort of makes sense when you think of it though...

now im off to attempt (my third attempt i might add) to paint this maserati birdcage slot car body yellow. again...i must use mist coats i must use mist coats i must use...DOH!!!

maybe i will post pics of the runs! im hoping for all hits no runs no errors this time!

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Thanks for the sharing the details! I especially like seeing examples of how to fix things like this. Too often I see examples of builders facing an similar obstacle and their automatic solution is to strip what is essentially perfectly good paint and start over. The more examples, like this, that can be shown...the better.

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