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Chi-Town Hustler

127 posts in this topic

Posted

The front wheels aren't quite the snap-fit of the rears, but you can see the fineness of the sprue gates on the front wheel. On older Revell kits, the larger part of the sprue would come closer to the part, making it hard to get even my sharp-pointed Tamiya sprue cutters cleanly against the part, but that doesn't appear to be a problem with this kit, it's the very first thing I noticed when I opened the box.

frontwheel001-vi.jpg

frontwheel002-vi.jpg

frontwheel003-vi.jpg

More to come later...

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Posted

I think all of this could have been avoided if Revell would have simply stated on the box that the kit is a replica of the restored car, not the original car as raced back in the day.

At least that way everyone would have known what they were getting, instead of being disappointed when they opened the box.

Thank you Harry P. My sentiments exactly. I don't WANT to build a model of the restored car and I won't pay for a resin body on top of buying the kit.

oldscool

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Posted

I'm not so sure the Hawaiian will share the same body with the CTH. The body and chassis come packed together and the bag is marked "Dodge Charger Funny Car Chi-Town Hustler". To be fair, all the bags say that, but I wouldn't be surprised if the 2 kits have a lot less in common than we're assuming, the sprues don't really seem to be laid out for a lot of commonality, other than the white plastic engine parts.

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Posted

I think you may well be correct about that, Brett. Seems to me there are quite a few parts that simply can't be shared between the two kits because of the Hustler's offset chassis design, the headers being among them.

But aren't those issues that any reasonably competent modeler can handle? :D

Sorry... couldn't resist... ;)

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Posted (edited)

Ken,

The comment from Brett about 'Tamiya-like' isn't far off. Everything is carefully packaged; the one piece frame is inside the body, windows are in a plastic bag(I know this is common now but it didn't used to be!). The chrome front axle has no visible seams. The tinwork is gorgeous! I know, how can you get excited about that?! The hinges are to scale. Everything is included on the decal sheet - including two 'remove before flight' tags! I'll admit, I wish the Halibrands were included in the box, but I have kits I can get them from. Not a big deal at all.

I can't wait for the Hawaiian, it should be just as impressive!

Jim Kampmann

Thanks for weighing in on this, Jim. Until someone finishes the kit and shows it here, I'm with Jim on this one 100%. I am utterly stunned that after 40 years....F O R T Y Y E A R S!!!!....we've got an all-new - OFFSET funny car chassis and it is, from what I can tell so far, the most accurate funny car chassis EVER in a 1/25th scale kit. There are so many areas where Revell could have cut corners and they did just the opposite. Again, I always hold off final judgment on a kit until it's built, but so far, I am tremendously impressed. Actually, blown away. TIM

Edited by tim boyd

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Posted (edited)

Heres a side shot of the original car

chitown2.jpg

Image2-vi.jpg

and the good side shot Chuck posted

Personally I dont think the body is that far off from the kit

but you make your own call...

from what ive read the tribute car uses an original body. can someone confirm that?

Edited by TxRat

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Posted

Thanks for weighing in on this, Jim. Until someone finishes the kit and shows it here, I'm with Jim on this one 100%. I am utterly stunned that after 40 years....F O R T Y Y E A R S!!!!....we've got an all-new - OFFSET funny car chassis and is, from what I can tell so far, the most accurate funny car chassis EVER in a 1/25th scale kit. There are so many areas where Revell could have cut corners and they did just the opposite. Again, I always hold off final judgment on a kit until it's built, but so far, I am tremendously impressed. Actually, blown away. TIM

Tim,

I've been working on mine this evening and should be painting the chassis tomorrow. I spent a little time rounding the back sides of the frame rails as they're squared off from the molding process. I know you'll probably never see them, but I did it anyway.

From what I've assembled so far, this thing just 'falls together'! Hopefully if it ever stops raining here I'll get the body painted this weekend. I will post photos soon!

Thanks,

Jim

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Posted

Heh Jim...I've been subconsciously admiring that '32 highboy in your signature line and then all of a sudden, it just him me. Is that a photo of your 1/1? If so, man you really nailed that one. Great color choice, great stance, killer looks. I guess I should have known. If yes congratulations, man, that one is WAY cool. I guess I really do need to find a way up to MSP soon and have you take me for a demo ride! TIM

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Posted

Looking forward to seeing your build Jim!

:)

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Posted (edited)

Based on that bit of photographic evidence, Shane, I think you're absolutely correct.

Again, therein lies the problem with attempting to judge the accuracy of a kit like the CTH ... you simply cannot assume that the 1:1 car was the exact same way it appeared in one or two photos throughout its entire racing life! Fiberglass bodies got damaged and/or destroyed and replaced all the time. These bodies were produced by different manufacturers that had different interpretations of the street cars on which they were based.

Therefore, it seems entirely possible, if not likely, that F,C&M could have run a body with more squared-off wheel openings at one race, and one with more rounded openings, like those on the Revell kit body, at another.

You're right about the bodies varying from race to race, it's just that I prefer the look of the squared fender openings over the round ones. After seeing that pic, I am beginning to lighten up on the kit a little.

I love all the info that is available from this group of modelers. Keep it coming.

oldscool

Edited by oldscool

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Posted

That old pic Shane psted has shown that the car ran that exact body at least for part of its initial run. There were a couple of fiberglass body makers at the time. Perhaps they got one where they could wherever they were? Makes sense to me. This kit is STELLAR in ALL respects. I'll build mine as it ran BITD and it'll be accurate.

FINIS

Bob

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Posted

From everything I've read on these kits from their announcement, they were to be replicas of the "Newstalgia" cars. That said, I am completely impressed that Revell molded an accurate chassis for the CTH. If you think about it, this chassis is only good for one car as it is a one off. Some of us get pretty hung up on the "rivit" factor. (myself included) I've come to realize that there will never be a kit that will be a museum quality representation out of the box. That's what makes this so much fun in my opinion. One thing for sure these are the first "new" tool F/C in maybe 10-15 years. Buy them up my friends and let Revell know that we will support future releases. There are a lot of cars that will be able to be done if the Hawaiian has an accurate Logghe chassis in it.

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Posted

One thing for sure these are the first "new" tool F/C in maybe 10-15 years. Buy them up my friends and let Revell know that we will support future releases.

I agree! :) And after reading everything here, I`ve decided I must have this kit, even though I will probably never have time to build it. B)

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Posted

I did this body a few years ago. It is a modified Polar Lights I am thinking on putting it on the new the new Revell Chassis. Anyone have any thoughts on how it would fit.

post-1809-027451500 1285455787_thumb.jpg

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Posted (edited)

OK guys go check your decal sheets to this car before you apply the decals . On one of the Champion Spark Plug sponorship decals the word (Champion) is spelled backwards and so is the white letters in the word (Dexter) above the Champion. You will need to replace the Champion decals from your decal box and cut the word Dexter off and flip it over . I'm just glad I caught mine before the decals were completely set.

LOL Chuck

Edited by ratnasty

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Posted

Looking forward to seeing your build Jim!

B)

Len and Tim,

Well, here it is so far; lots left to do, but I'm pretty happy with it.

Thanks,

Jim Kampmann

post-1231-056732300 1285548512_thumb.jpg

post-1231-012544000 1285548522_thumb.jpg

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Posted

Len and Tim,

Well, here it is so far; lots left to do, but I'm pretty happy with it.

Thanks,

Jim Kampmann

Lookin really good so far Jim! What kit are the rear wheels and tires from? I see you cut out the escape hatch. What are your plans for that?

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Posted

Lookin really good so far Jim! What kit are the rear wheels and tires from? I see you cut out the escape hatch. What are your plans for that?

Ben,

The tires are from the kit, wheels from the Johan Mustang funny car. I thought it should be opened up since this was a unique feature on the car. I plan on making up a piano style hinge for it. I still need to make a lip around the opening and thin out the hatch.

Thanks,

Jim

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Posted

Model Car Garage makes PE piano hinge kits, small ones found here:

http://www.modelcargarage.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=295

And large ones here:

http://www.modelcargarage.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=300

The longer ones can of course be trimmed to fit an application smaler than them but larger than the small set.

:)

Do you know of instructions or a tutorial on how to assemble these?

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Posted

Progress on mine has been delayed slightly by me dropping and losing one of the front coilovers! :angry: Replacement is on order from Revell ...

It has to be on the floor somewhere... :D

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Posted

It'll turn up after you get the replacement.:rolleyes: I've been thinking about the changes in rear fenders on the real car and I think it may have been due to wider slicks coming along as tire technology progressed. This caused the quarters to have more of a bulge.

oldscool

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Posted

I know many on this forum have made comments. I don't mean to discuss the comparison of the original 1:1 car vs restored 1:1 car vs. the 1/25 scale model that's been much discussed.

In terms of the fit and casting, the quality here is outstanding. The body mold is excellent and best China -produced since Revell started molding kits there: crisp details, no flash, few seams and injection marks that are easy to clean up for priming, painting. The dry fit of body parts: the hood, windscreen (thin and very clear)and firewall, is excellent. I've started the engine and the fit is good here. In the past Revell kits have been considered as approaching (eventually) Japanese model quality. Well this kit matches the Japanese competition, meaning Tamiya, IMHO. Great job Revell, bring on more of these.

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Posted

Steve,

I have heard from a good source that Revell had spent $148,000 on tooling for the Chi-Town Hustler. How true it is, I can't say.

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Posted

In terms of the fit and casting, the quality here is outstanding. The body mold is excellent and best China -produced since Revell started molding kits there: crisp details, no flash, few seams and injection marks that are easy to clean up for priming, painting.

I have to agree. This thing goes together beautifully. It was probably the best engineered kit I have ever built, Revell or otherwise.

back3.jpg

side.jpg

front.jpg

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Posted

I have to agree. This thing goes together beautifully. It was probably the best engineered kit I have ever built, Revell or otherwise.

back3.jpg

Oh yeahhhh! That IS nice stuff! I may buy the Hawaiian which shares some tooling afaik. Build reports like yours are much appreciated!

BTW, what red is that?

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