Mr. Show Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 (edited) I started this hobby nearly three weeks ago and I'm still on my first model, mainly because I'm having such a rough time getting the body to look right. I've painted and stripped it 5 times. On the most recent paintjob, now curing, I took my time after priming and made sure every nook, cranny and crevice of the parts were sanded flat. I read up on and practiced my airbrushing skills so there would be no surprises. And yet the finish is still uneven. There's no orange peel since I airbrushed, but there are thousands of tiny bumps on the surface. In the airbrush tutorial videos I saw nobody had this problem. What will I need to fix this in finishing? The finest sandpaper I can find locally is 2000. I have some polishing compound but I think it may be too strong for the enamel. Should I clearcoat then finish sand? These are the things I'm having trouble finding answers on. Anyway, any suggestions would be great. I'm so tired of looking at this thing and want to move on to something else. Edited October 24, 2010 by Mr. Show Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chillyb1 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 You can try these: http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/Primer/primer.htm http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/PerfectPaint/paint.htm Those will get you started. Then it's a matter of practice, practice, practice. Followed by more practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffs396 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 James, check out Donn Yost's site here: Instructional videos He's one of the best painters around, check out his work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 James, lotsa great advice here... I might also suggest The book airbrushing models by Bob Downie..I have both editions.... http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&P=SM&I=LXUZK1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
my66s55 Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 I second getting Donn Yost's video. It fixed my paint mistakes after one viewing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Ambrose Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I'm gonna guess that those tiny bumps are overspray. They might just buff away depending on how dry they were when they landed on the model. What air pressure are you using? I may be an oddity, but I run 15 PSI and really thin out the paint. This gives me a small paint spot, lots of control, and very little overspray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Show Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 I'm gonna guess that those tiny bumps are overspray. They might just buff away depending on how dry they were when they landed on the model. What air pressure are you using? I may be an oddity, but I run 15 PSI and really thin out the paint. This gives me a small paint spot, lots of control, and very little overspray. I started at 10, then went to 15, 20 and 25. In the lower range it would take a second for the paint to spray (testors enamel thinned 1:1, single action airbrush) after pressing the button even though there was plenty in the bottle and the air was releasing. I don't know if that means the paint wasn't thinned enough, though I doubt that since equal part thinner to already thin testors enamel is like water. I did it in very light coats, waiting 5-10 minutes between each misting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I started at 10, then went to 15, 20 and 25. In the lower range it would take a second for the paint to spray (testors enamel thinned 1:1, single action airbrush) after pressing the button even though there was plenty in the bottle and the air was releasing. I don't know if that means the paint wasn't thinned enough, though I doubt that since equal part thinner to already thin testors enamel is like water. I did it in very light coats, waiting 5-10 minutes between each misting. Donn will tell you 2 parts paint 1 part cheap lacquer thinner.....34 psi, multiple mist coats.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublejuggs Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 (edited) I have had bumps similar to what you are describing, it turns out it was paint in the air settling on the model as the spray was not as fine as it could have been and i left the model to dry in the same area i painted in. Edited October 25, 2010 by doublejuggs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bang bang Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Ditto on Donn Yost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 (edited) James , Try this .... Mix your paint at a 2 to 1 paint to thinner ratio. Set your regulator at 32 psi.You need to apply your paint in multiple whisper thin coats and get closer with your airbrush , about 4 in. away from the body . Coat the body until your color is uniform and smooth . What it sounds like to me , given your description of your paint results , you have a two fold problem . First your ratio is too thin , your paint is drying before it hits the body due to your mix ratio . Second , your air brush is being held too far away from the body while your are spraying . Go to my website at oldmansmodels.com , click on instructional dvds . There you can watch the trailer on airbrushing , it will show you exactly what I'm talking about . Much easier to actually see , rather then being described in word . You should also consider picking up a polishing kit from LMG ( Model Empire carries them ) or contact detailmasters.com , they also carry them . Novus 2 and the Final Detail Treatment wax will put you on the right track for your finish . Don't get discouraged ! It's not rocket science , with a little patience and practice , you'll get there ! Donn Yost Lone Wolf Custom Painting Edited October 26, 2010 by LoneWolf15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Show Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 (edited) Thanks for all the replies. I'll definitely order your DVD soon, Mr. Yost. I went crazy buying kits and am now a little low on funds. When I do get it, however, I'm sure it'll be much easier for me to learn when I can see it in action. I do have one question - do any decanted sprays need to be thinned? I'm thinking about trying some lacquers decanted for airbrush use. Edited October 26, 2010 by Mr. Show Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted October 27, 2010 Share Posted October 27, 2010 Thanks for all the replies. I'll definitely order your DVD soon, Mr. Yost. I went crazy buying kits and am now a little low on funds. When I do get it, however, I'm sure it'll be much easier for me to learn when I can see it in action. I do have one question - do any decanted sprays need to be thinned? I'm thinking about trying some lacquers decanted for airbrush use. James , My advice to the new guys starting out is always this .... Decent equipment and educational tools first , kits are always second . Having good equipment prevents major problems from occuring right from the start. My personal opinion , stick with the enamels for awhile until you get the hang of things , they are a bit easier to work with just starting out . To answer your question , yes , they can be decanted and no , they do not need to be thinned . Be sure to allow the paint to flash out after you have decanted it before attempting to airbrush with it ! In other words , no bubbles are present in the jar . Sorry , I have to go now ! , THE LAQUER POLICE are beating on the door . The Old Man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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