Revells' Hawaiian - The End is Here!

[Len Carsner]

Revell’s Hawaiian Dodge Charger NHRA Funny Car

Tom Creeger, after looking over the new Revell Hawaiian kit said, “It’s another cool piece of racing history and when built will be a great companion piece to display with our Chi-Town Hustler. Revell has done a great job for us on this new ‘vintage’ kit…or maybe we should say…’once again’ “.

With this build of the new Revell Hawaiian kit, Tom will add more detail to the Hawaiian engine and fuel system with basic old school techniques like we used on the CTH.

Tube Frame:

The frame is one piece so you won’t have to try to get it together straight, it’s already molded as one piece! It’s a good-looking frame, seems a shame not to give it more detail than we did in the CTH build up. So, first thing I’m adding to the frame is rear brake lines and the first is the brackets for those lines.

There are many systems in a funny car all operating together. If we analyze them and use common tools and materials we can build a neat racecar with lots of detail and not go broke doing it.

Complex systems separated out to the basics become simpler to understand and model. This car had a dual brake system with dual master cylinders so if one failed there would still be brakes at 200 MPH. Sounds like a good idea. Revell has given us the dual brake cylinders we just need to connect them.

The frame was first cleaned up of mold lines and flash and there wasn’t much of that and then primed lightly.

Rear brake lines:

Gather some tools like a machinist ruler, a hobby knife, sand paper and sheet plastic. I’m using 0.010 thick plastic to make the brackets. The sheet is available at well stocked hobby shops and it sometimes comes in variety packs of different thicknesses.

First, cut a long strip about 3/64 wide. Drill a 0.020 hole in one end of the strip as shown here. Then round the ends with the sand paper. The tip of your Exacto knife can be used if the correct drill isn’t at hand. You might want to practice on a spare piece of plastic until you get it right.

Next, glue each strip in place as shown here, exposing I/16 in. (eyelet) above the side frames, then, cutting the pieces to length. Also, refer to the drawing provided. If the brackets aren't perfectly shaped etc., that’s okay. They can be gently sanded a little more when the glue dries. (I use plastic super glue but other glues work just as well to attach these parts to the frame rails.)

Refer to Brake Eyelet Diagram shown here.

When the brackets are in place eventually the brake lines should run parallel from left to right. The brake lines will be made using a method commonly referred to as “stretching sprueâ€.

Stretching sprue:

Stretching is accomplished by heating a length sprue over a heat source and as the material reaches threshold temperature the ends are pulled in opposite directions. Tom first tried a low wattage incandescent light bulb but he just couldn't get it to work very well. Heat from the bulb failed to heat the sprue to the proper temperature.

Then Tom tried his wife's hair dryer. It worked quite well but… Caution! Be sure to have proper “adult supervision†when attempting this operation. Practice is everything here. The speed with which you pull (stretch) the plastic and area (of the sprue) heated dictates the finished size (diameter). Tom says this stuff can be used for a variety of things.

Engine block:

The basic block was glued together, the seam up the transmission was and filled and sanded smooth. The cylinder heads were glued in place.

continued...

Edited December 20, 2010 by Len Carsner

[Len Carsner]

The Hawaiian has a little more of a cooling system than the CTH but nothing that craft braid can’t help improve on. To prepare for adding the cooling lines later, small holes about 0.040 in diameter were drilled in the block (both sides) before painting. These will provide a place to glue the craft braid used for the cooling line that will be added later.

There are two holes for the return water lines one in the front of each head and one on each side of the block. The block holes are just to the rear of the freeze plug (two round indentations) on the left side of the block and between the freeze plugs on the right side of the engine block.

Small holes about 0.020 were drilled in the heads where the headers attach, these holes will be used to pin the headers to the block later and provide a positive location for the headers and also make them stronger. Last thing you need at a show is to have something like a header getting knocked off your displayed model.

The engine can now be painted. The transmission came first and was painted flat aluminum. After the transmission was dry it was masked off and the block and heads painted with Testor’s magnesium.

The oil pan was fit and painted aluminum then a light coat of clear yellow was shot over the pan to give it a slightly anodized appearance. When dry the pan was glued to the bottom of the block and the bolt heads were painted gold.

The timing cover is in two parts, with the engine mounts extending from it on either side. The timing cover was painted Testors Dark Anodonic Gray and when dry, the engine mounts were brush painted with Testors Aluminum Plate buffing Metalizer. It was allowed to dry and lightly buffed, It doesn’t take much here, just enough to bring up a little shine.

Next, the timing cover was glued to the engine and the bolt heads painted with Testors Exhaust for contrast.

The lower portion of the distributor shaft (upper left corner) was painted flat aluminum, while the middle section was painted Testors bottle silver and the top semi gloss black. You can use either Testors Black Chrome or Semi-Gloss Black enamel.

Tom is really old school. He likes to mix his own semi-gloss black. “I mix mine in small amounts. Drip a couple drops of flat black on a piece of masking tape laid on my work surface. Then I add a drop of gloss black and mix well. I play with the proportions until I get what I think looks good. Best thing about doing it this way is that all you’ve used is a few drops of paint from two standard colors. If I have some paint left over I use that to paint the starter.

Templates for reshaping front and rear wheel openings are provided inside the body shell. Revell has gracious engraved indentations representing their version of this operation. Tom recommends removing small amount of plastic until you are satisfied with the results. Making comparisons to images of the 1/1 racecar are encouraged.

Hawaiian Website:

http://carsandracingstuff.com/library/h/hawaiian.php"http://carsandracingstuff.com/library/h/hawaiian.php

<img src=http://images112.fotki.com/v495/photos/7/1677637/9203974/A13Body2hoods-vi.jpg>

Here you can see the differences between the CTH hood and the one used on the Hawaiian hood. We’re also preparing to fill in the roof hatch used on the CTH but not on the Hawaiian body. Tom recommends using Squadron MMD Green Putty for best results.

In this shot we see the nearly finished bodywork. The escape hatch after being filled in with Green Putty, was sanded smooth and coated with primer. Tom is getting close to applying the base and top coat paint.

A15- Here’s an example of Tom’s experimentations with various base coats and top coats of paint colors to achieve a reasonably close match to the restored Hawaiian body color:

The restored Hawaiian is painted as follows:

PPG Deltron

Intense Blue Pearl Coat PPG DBU5357T

Golden Pearl White Coat DBU5066 Source said it was a stock Chrysler color

Again, these custom mixed colors could be used on your model but be aware that they cost an arm and leg…like primer, reducer, base coat, color coat, hardner (for urethanes and enamels), cha-ching! Tom says figure on about $30 each for these items (excluding primer of course).

Creeger finally settled on Testors colors for the Hawaiian kit body shell found on their website:

Testors paint charts

http://www.testors.com/category/50736/Paints

We’ll get into that subject in the next installment.

continued...

Edited November 11, 2010 by Len Carsner

[Len Carsner]

This seemed like a good place to change subjects. Here the front and rear tires have been scuffed up and the appropriate sidewall marking decals have been applied. Also note that the rear wheels have been refinished with Testor Gold Metallic and once dry treated to a few light coats of Testors Semi Gloss. The reason for light coats is that the cardinal rule usually is that enamel can be applied over Laqquer but never apply lacquer over enamel. We had to make an adjustment this time as Testors Semi Gloss is lacquer only.

Some minor detailing was also done to the lug nuts and axle centering holes with chrome silver and The Detailer black liquid.

That's all for now, keep watching for our next update where I'll get into my choices for paint.

Thanks,

Bill, Tom, and Len

[W-409]

Nice start whith this one! It's one kit, I have to buy also, all these Funny Cars are always good looking. Whith your talents, it's going to be awesome. Nice job with it ao far, I like that body very much, it's nice.

[Len Carsner]

It's been awhile since our last update, a setback caused by computer issues. Now that things are back to semi-normal we'll resume our posts on building the next funny car release by Revell.

In our last post Tom Creeger showed some of the preliminary work involved in the details he'll be adding to the engine compartment of the Hawaiian. For this update I'll be showing my prep for the body work and what I've chosen for my body color.

Let's get back to it.

First step in the prep work for the body was to fill in the hatch outline in the roof. The Hawaiian did not use the hatch while the Chi-Town Hustler did.

From this angle you can see the rear spoiler has been added and the rear wheel openings have been re-worked. They look a bit large to my eye but I followed the guide lines on the inside of the body.

Now that I've finished the body work it's time to hit the paint booth. I gave the body several light coats of Duplicolor gray primer, checking between coats for any spots that may pop up that need additional work.

Once I was satisfied with the primer coat it was time to decide on what I was going to use to get the right color for the exterior.

For the blue body color I'm using Testors GTS Blue Pearl. Once again I'll be using plastic spoons to experiment with which base coat I'll use to get the closest match to the House of Kolor blue used on the Hawaiian. From left to right is gray primer, gloss white, gloss aluminum, and gloss black.

The color differences are subtle, but the black undercoat (on the left) was a bit darker than I wanted while the silver (on the right) brought out the metallic more than I wanted and made the shade a little too bright. I decided the white undercoat (center) was the best of the three.

Back to the paint booth where Tamiya gloss white was sprayed on in two light coats followed by a third heavier coat.

The GTS blue was built up slowly until I got the even shade I was looking for, after which it was allowed to dry before receiving three light coats of Testors Wet Look Clear.

At this point the rest of the parts that needed to be painted blue were given their color and clear coats, after which they were allowed to dry in a dehydrator for a few hours. The body was sent to the drying chamber as well.

continued....

[Len Carsner]

After being allowed to dry the body was set out in natural light to judge the results. All in all I'm pleased.

While the blue pieces were drying I painted all of the pieces that needed to be black with Tamiya Matt Black. The headers were also given a blast of dullcoat.

At this point all of the major parts have been painted and can be set aside until needed. It's time for me to get to the engine and wheels.

Check back later this week and we'll update you on Tom's progress with his detailing project.

Thanks for looking,

Bill, Tom, and Len

[Len Woodruff]

Great job Len. Looking forward to the next steps.

[Len Carsner]

Last week was paint, this week we pick up where we left off with Tom Creeger and his detailing instructions.

Fuel delivery system

The fuel system can be broken into two sections. The first section is the injector plumbing into the engine. Most of the top fuel cars during this period ran a system with 16 injectors on the engine. Typically there would be 8 injector nozzles at the top on the bug catcher just above the blower with 4 nozzles on each side. Then 8 more injector nozzles are added on the intake manifold again with 4 on each side.

With this Hawaiian project I’m just taking what was done recently on the Chi Town Hustler model and adding to it. Please join us as we get this one nicely plumbed up.

First, I glued some strips of thin sheet plastic together until I had a thickness of 1/16 in. and about 1/8 in. long just to make it easier to work with. What I’m making is a little square rod 1/16 in. on a side. Then I dilled four holes close together as shown in the diagram at one end for the injector lines (which run) to the manifold.

Next, I drilled a 0.040 in. hole just deep enough so the craft braid will stay in place and stay put when glued firmly.

Next 0.020 dia holes were drilled in the manifold as shown here. The block and brace were glued to the rear of the intake manifold and the black-coated wires run to the intake holes, cut to length and glued in place.

The fuel block was then painted aluminum and the brace was painted matte black. I glued a length of craft braid into the large hole and put a 2 in. piece of the black-coated wire through each of the four smaller dia holes.

The Bug Catcher is next to get some detailing. Like the manifold, it also gets a set of fuel lines. The bug catcher is one piece and the detail is pretty good but needs a plate on the bottom to replicate the bottom of the full-size piece and give the fuel lines a place to hook into.

Supercharger (Blower)

Reference photos show the full-size Hawaiian funny car to have a gold anodized blower cases and I’ll replicate that here. I first painted the blower case with Model Master flat aluminum and shot clear yellow over that to simulate gold anodizing. Every picture I looked at the blower seemed a different color so I just picked one picture and went for that.

Then, black-coated wire (same as used for spark plug wires) was run from the fuel block to the 4 holes in each side of the plate under the bug catcher for fuel lines on each side.

The blower case ends were painted silver and glued in place.

Magneto

I sanded the top of the magneto flat. I find this often helps clarify where to drill the plug wire holes. Then I wiped a Marks-a-lot marker over the top of the cap area to give it a dark color. Then I used the tip of a new No. 11 X-Acto blade to register my drill point so the drill bit doesn’t move around while starting the hole. Then I angled my drill tip in a little towards the center of the cap which helps keep the bit from breaking out the sides of the part being drilled.

I get the wire holes closer to the right spot and not ruin the part. I drilled the holes 0.018 in an eight-sided hexagon and painted the cap gloss black. I always recommend cutting the wires plenty long. Everybody has different ways of doing this but I like to use 5-minute epoxy as it gives me extra time to position the wires in the cap. And it works!

continued....

[Len Carsner]

I used a little more of the square rod I’d made earlier for the manifold fuel block and made another fuel block in the same fashion. I cut the molded fuel block off the rear of the bug catcher and glued my new one in its place.

A tail (A and N fitting) sticks out of the back of the block facing the left side of the car. This gets trimmed off and shortened up and is a termination point for the incoming fuel supply lines.

The block was then painted matte black and glued to the front lower left corner of the bug catcher and the fuel lines were attached. Two lines go to the fuel blocks. One is the supply line and one is the bypass return to the fuel tank at part throttle and shut down.

Sparkplug wires

With the fuel lines on the injectors I thought it time to mount the valve covers and add the plug wires. The only color shots I’ve seen of the engine all had red plug wires and I’ll do the same. Like the CTH some 30 gauge red wire does the trick.

After the glue on the wires was dry I painted the base of the magneto flat black, glued it on the engine and ran the wires to the valve covers.

There’s another little chunk of plastic (I made?) to be 1/8 x1/8 x 1/16 thick that mounts to the bug catcher. This is where the fuel lines run into and out of the engine stop.

The blower drive belt was sanded down to a more believable thickness with 400 grit sandpaper and painted semi-flat black and the pulleys painted silver.

The front edge of the idler and crank pulley got a little brighter silver to finish them off. The kit includes a belt guard/starter mount that most kits never include. It is a little thick and could have been thinned out but I didn’t this time. Problem with this part is the instruction sheet shows it mounted backwards compared to the pictures of the restored car. I trimmed off the mounting tab on the guard, turned it around and glued it in place over the top blower pulley. But it just hung there in space looking lost.

Remember the plastic sprue I stretched earlier? I cut some short pieces and glued them to the back of the starter mount and onto the blower front cover where the blower bolts wound be. The little pieces were painted silver and left alone I got one a little crooked but it’s there. I connected the main fuel line to the pump and left the bypass fuel line till later.

Rear brakes

With the engine this far along, I took a break and moved on to the chassis. I got busy trying out paints and I tired out a lot of them. I wanted something off-the-shelf and the closest one I found was what many already knew, Testors Candy Blue over silver. Ah…but what silver? I tried several and I’m sure there might be a better one but I used Testors Buffing Aluminum Metalizer, I just didn’t buff it.

I looked at over 200 pictures of the restored car and the paint looked different in every picture and lighting. The actual color on the real car was posted earlier post on this site. This may not be an exact paint match but it’s a pretty fair substitute and the price was right.

With the frame painted I continued with some more cheap (inexpensive?) detail and more of the stretched sprue. I glued different size pieces together (Super glue) for T fittings then added a long piece at one end. The T fitting went on the drivers side. The long end was stuck into the bracket I’d made earlier on the right side.

The T fittings were painted brass and the lines Testors spray can silver #1246 shot into a cup and brushed on. When the glue was dry I added another piece of the stretched sprue from the T and ran it towards the front along the top of the upper frame rail. The line disappears under the cockpit aluminum so they don’t go too far.

That's all for now, check back next week when we'll have another update for you.

Thanks for looking,

Bill, Tom, and Len

[Lou N]

Len,

Awesome job, I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the build. Were did you get the braided line (I assume at a craft store)? Is there a name brand or size that you prefer?

Thanks,

Lou

[Dragline]

Very nice detailing for "on the cheap". I'm digging the brakes especially. I may have to steal that one..

Looks great so far. I cannot wait to get mine, though it will go into the queue for some time.

Thanks to you Len and Tom. These efforts are inspiring.

Bob

[cruz]

I used that Intense Blue from Dupli-Color on my '41 Willys using white primer, these are pictures taken outside so that you may see the true color, just in case anyone wants to use it!!!

Hosted on Fotki

[High octane]

Len,

Your tutorial is great and I'm hoping to get my Hawaiian kit this week and start on it. Thanks.

[Raul_Perez]

The detail work on the engine and chassis looks awesome!!

Thanks for sharing the diagrams!!

Later,

[High octane]

Len,

while painting the body, I noticed that you have the inside of the body masked off. what color did you paint the inside of the body? Thanks.

[Len Carsner]

Len,

while painting the body, I noticed that you have the inside of the body masked off. what color did you paint the inside of the body? Thanks.

The instructions called for satin black which matches the pictures I have of the inside of the car. I used Tamiya TS-9 Matt Black so the finish wouldn't be too glossy or too flat.

Thanks for your interest,

Len Carsner

Edited December 8, 2010 by Len Carsner

[my80malibu]

I see 4 line's on the drawing leading under the blower. but only saw 3 lines on the model.Am I confused

[W-409]

That detailing is super. It's just like 1:1... This is one kit, I must buy, I always have been a great fan of these Funny Cars, those new ones are not so cool. (Now meaning Top Methanol Funny Cars, because here in Europe, they don't drive Nitro Funnies... ) But your Charger looks very good so far.

[Termite]

I see 4 line's on the drawing leading under the blower. but only saw 3 lines on the model.Am I confused

Look at the Front 3/4 view photo all 4 lines can be seen. 2 into the barrel valve and 2 out to the injectors

Tom

[Nitro Neil]

Hey, I'm supposed to be working here...

Please stop posting this really interesting stuff. I can't get any work done.

[Danno]

Hey, I'm supposed to be working here...

Please stop posting this really interesting stuff. I can't get any work done.

Amen.

[Len Carsner]

One last update on the Hawaiian before the grand unveiling!

We continue with more of Tom Creeger and his detailing seminar.

Final detailing tips…

The last things to do on the rear end were the brake lines from the calipers to the to the frame. I drilled 0.020 holes at each end of the calipers because there are two break lines to each side. The full-size car had dual calipers on each wheel, the kit brakes have one caliper per wheel. These are a carryover from the CTH kit and were used as is. For lines I used some small elastic string. The string was cut extra long and one end super glued and left to dry. Then I cut off all but the very tip of the glued end to keep it from fraying. The glued end was then attached to the frame bracket and the other end run into a hole in the brake caliper. When all 4 lines were in place they were painted with Testors 1246 silver (spray can shot into a cup) and just brushed on.

The engine and steering linkage were installed next. I used the interior tub as a mandrel (tool) to get the roll cage glued together as a unit before painting. A little filler was used to smooth out the joints in the roll cage before it was painted body color like the frame. The interior tub was sprayed aluminum and the seat was painted semi gloss black. I had trouble with the seat belt decals and opted to paint the molded in seat belts Testors 1110 blue and add the Simpson logo cut from the seat belt decals.

The steering is called out to be painted blue but I’ve looked and the photos say it’s aluminum so that’s how it was painted. The steering wheel rim was painted gloss black. I did add brake lines from the two master cylinders that run over and down the roll cage forward support. A hole about 0.025 was added to the back of the oil pressure gauge before painting and mounting it to the steering column. An oil pressure line was later added to the back of the gauge.

With the interior out of my way I started on the engine plumbing. The two moon tanks were glued together and then stripped of chrome. The tank seams were filled and sanded smooth before and a hole 0.040 drilled top and bottom of each tank. One tank is coolant the other fuel. They were painted buffing aluminum and lightly buffed. To do the black tie down straps holding the tanks in place I got lazy and grabbed a magic marker and drew the straps on. BMF makes a black foil that would work great here and provide a cleaner look. The tanks were glued in and the plumbing started. The fuel pump is mislabeled on the instruction sheet as an oil pump. No oil pump is supplied in the kit but could be added easily to the engine, the oil pump looks pretty much like any stock Mopar pump and locates in the stock position. This oil pump is just taller for increased volume. The oil lines were not plumbed in this build. The oil filters were painted, decaled and mounted per the instruction sheet. Detailed photos are available on line at the Quad Cities Car Show, Fotki site or Jim Keelers awesome “Unraveling the snake pit†which shows the original first build of this car.

This is how I ran the fuel lines:

I must admit I did wander off the accurate path at the fuel pump some. This was done just to make it easier to build this time. The real car has a fuel shut off valve just off the fuel pump out put connection. The fuel line to the engine and both bypass lines are “T’d†in at that point. I chose not to add the shut off valve this time around. The system chosen is functional but not completely accurate for this car at this point. The biggest difference is the pump which is a carry over from the CTH which used a different system. Still it’s not far off and functional. I’ve included a diagram of the actual Shut off valve connections should you decide to add it to your model. The valve is cable operated from the drivers position. Originally it was a red T handle in the floor and moved to a red grab handle at some time. I would recommend a long look at reference on line. Also this diagram should help a little. Before I forget the valve is Black on the restored car just pick which way you want to do it.

The side shot shows four (4) fuel lines.

With a fuel system in place the cooling system was next. The original car had 3 square tanks with the 3rd tank for oil. The restored car has dual Moon type round tanks and I am unsure as to when the change happened. The cooling system utilizes an electric water pump mounted to the right side of the frame between the engine and the coolant tank. No pump is provided so one was made from plastic tube painted black and glued in place. Earlier holes were added to the block for the cooling lines.

Figure 1 shows only the plumbing for coolant into the engine.

In Figure 2 the return plumbing back to the coolant tank has been added to the drawing. If you were unsure about how all this hooked up I hope this helps clear it up. Arrows on drawings indicate direction of coolant flow. Please remember that no specific scale has been maintained in the drawings.

Short update, but a lot to take in. At this point both cars are finished and the beauty shots are done.

Want to see the end result? Check back on Thursday when we'll wrap this project up.

Thanks for your interest,

Bill, Tom, and Len

Edited December 17, 2010 by Len Carsner

[evilone]

Wow this is coming out clean and detailed as heck.Keep it up

[brett]

Hey guys, just want to say thanks for the awesome buildup tutorials, I and I'm sure many others really appreciate them,

[Len Carsner]

Final body painting, decals and assembly

Tom Creeger had said earlier that he used Testors transparent blue for the body color over a silver base, he did this by building it up in light coats. The bumpers were then painted silver and here again Tom used the Testors spray can silver shot through an air brush.

I got the front spoiler decal a little to high, it should sit closer to the bottom edge of the spoiler. The remaining decals were applied as the instruction sheet said and the white panels are great as there is little or no color the shows through. The only tough decals for me were the white roof panels. The blue lettering on the side of the car seemed a little darker than I thought it should be from the photos I looked at. But I could be wrong color in photos is not to be trusted because of all the variables like developing and editing that alter what you think you see.

Len Says - I had some trouble with the roof decals too. Very time consuming and still had some flaws that I could not get away from. Take lots of time and use plenty of MIcrosol.

Testor Gold Metallic was sprayed on the rear wheels (with a final light coat of semi gloss) and the fronts were just dull coated and mounted. The front wheels in the Quad cities on line photos of the restored car were very gray and dull. But there is a picture of the Hawaiian in the early days with chrome or polished wheels at all four corners. It’s your choice as to which combination you choose for your build.

One thing Tom Creeger did was cut down the pins that hinge the body and make them shorter so the body could be removed easier.

The inner body panels were done in aluminum to more closely replicate the restored car not the black indicated on the instruction sheet. Black would have been a good color when the car was raced because of glare off the panels. But as it sits now they are aluminum and that’s how Creeger did it on his model.

Also Creeger used red plug wire for the chute release cables that go through the rear panel of painted tail lights. The release on the restored car is high and on the right side of the driver mounted on the roll cage.

Len says: I followed the instructions and painted my interior panels matt black which also matches the reference photos I have for the original car.



Final thoughts…

Race cars are constantly in evolution and building a replica is always a case of picking one day in the cars life and modeling that day. Things change to stay competitive, blower cases and engines can change from one run to another and bodies get hurt and fixed and may look a little different next week if you compared them.

This model is not intended to be an exact replica of any one period in the cars history. Instead it’s built only as an average look for the car over all. It was an interesting project and I learned a lot about this car I never knew after studying it at length. The kit is a good build and the parts fit was good. Nothing in my kit was warped or had bad shrink marks. This model kit captures the look and spirit of the original car well.

Happy Modeling

Tom C.

Len Says: Not much I can add to what Tom has already said, other than when I approached this build I naturally assumed that the experience would be much like the one I had with the Chi-Town Hustler. Nothing could be further from the truth! These kits are as different as night and day from each other. And if you are a fan of vintage drag cars these two kits are well worth you time and effort to add them to your shelves.

Once again we've come to the end of a project. And we can't wrap this up without thanking those who've made this possible:

Thanks to Revell - For trusting us to present the public with their latest offering.

To the owners of these forums and their moderators - For allowing us a place to share our work in a comfortable and civilized arena.

To Tom Creeger - It's been a blast working with you and comparing our work. You've really pushed me to "step up" my game and I'm grateful for everything you've done.

To Bill Coulter - None of this would be possible without you and I don't know if I can ever express my gratitude.

Thanks to you all, my friends.

And thanks to all of the people who watched or commented on this project. Your interest does influence the manufacturers and encourages them to continue to develop new product for the market.

Merry Christmas to every one! We'll see you after the New Year with another new project.

Thank for your interest,

Bill Coulter, Tom Creeger, And Len Carsner