Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum
Sergey

Paulie Hauling's "Love Machine"

Recommended Posts

Hello, friends.

I started with the engine.

It should look like this:

1973_maxidyne_300_series.jpg

50.jpg

Laying out fuel lines fron injector to cylinders.

39-1.jpg

I decided to improve pulleys.

40.jpg

Cut off the belts.

42.jpg

Alternator pulley was turn using power drill and device on photo.

41.jpg

The rest of the pulleys were partly punched from styrene.

43.jpg

The result.

44.jpg

Alternator seemed too simple.

45.jpg

So it was altered with one more lug (marked with arrow, flywheel (on the left) and bracket(on the right).

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kit starter:

46.jpg

It's location on the block:

47.jpg

I cut off the part, which will be painted with the engine

48.jpg

...and added some detailes to unit:

49.jpg

The engine (not finished jet):

51.jpg

52.jpg

Some parts are not glued because they will be painted seperattely in a different color. Filters were cut of brackets by the same reason.

53.jpg

Up on the right is the tube locating above the valve cover. Up on the left is reinforced tube surraunding air filter hose:

maxidyne13.jpg

Kit radiator suffered form lack of rim on the back side. I used 25mm plastic tube to cut a short piece for radiator. By the way, this tube will be used to make fuel tanks.

54.jpg

The hose between air cleaner and intercooler proved to be too short. I plan to cut it and insert pieces of aluminum tube 6mm:

59.jpg

First cross member will be replaced by brass tube (on the left) because it will hold bull bar hinges.

Feel free to ask questiones.

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent work Sergey!!! A model so detailed would really benefit from a set of the real aluminum split rim ten hole wheels I'm having made!!!! Not only are they real machined aluminum, but they are also correct in shape. The AMT wheels have incorrect contours. These wheels are designed to be direct replacements for the kit wheels and still use the kit's plastic lock rings. (The lock rings are steel and would be painted on real wheels). I have also had real machined aluminum lug nuts made to go with these wheels. If you think you might be interested in some, let me know.Aluminumsplitrimtenholes-vi.jpgRearsplitrim-vi.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent work Sergey!!! A model so detailed would really benefit from a set of the real aluminum split rim ten hole wheels I'm having made!!!!

Thank you Ben. I will think it over.

One more thing: I plan to paint the engine in gold, like on top photo. I saw they also were light blue and red. Am I right about my decision?

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Sergey! I am not a Mack expert but I do know they paint their engines gold or grey. I'm not sure on light blue or red though?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on the year, in this case the late 1970s, gold would be an appropriate choice. I've found that Tamiya Gold Leaf X-12 is pretty close. The 300-Plus ETAZ-673A was copper colored.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Sergey! I am not a Mack expert but I do know they paint their engines gold or grey. I'm not sure on light blue or red though?

Hello Ben! Here are the examples:

01.jpg

02.jpg

As I mention before the tanks will be replaced. Tank brackets too. Here are the tool and materials for that:

55.jpg

Here are the tank side pieces:

56.jpg

I used the rest of the material for tank brackets:

57.jpg

Fuel tank:

58.jpg

Fuel tank brackets:

60-1.jpg

On the frame:

61.jpg

A photo of the real frame to compare:

60.jpg

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergey

Nice detail happening here, with some nice attention to detail

One thing most people leave off when detailing a engine is the clutch assembly on the gear box

and when you do the tank straps for the tanks, they also have a rubber moulding under the strap in most cases, some custom trucks don't have these

I attached a pic of the KW version of these straps, and a pic of the 1/16th version that I cast in rubber so you could see the result

I really like the pulley detail, they really come up great, will have to use that idea myself

Look forward to another update

post-5672-0-19373600-1300572314_thumb.jp

post-5672-0-07471500-1300572481_thumb.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alot of attention to detail I really like it. With all the time and attention you're putting I cant wait to the see finished build.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Sergey, seeing that red engine, I'm reminded of seeing them before but I've never seen a light blue one! I like how it looks! You do know there's lots of places you can get real aluminum fuel tanks to put on your truck, right? Nothing looks more like an aluminum fuel tank...than an aluminum fuel tank!!!! LOL

They're cheap too!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergey

Nice detail happening here, with some nice attention to detail

One thing most people leave off when detailing a engine is the clutch assembly on the gear box

Thank you Tony. Do you mean a rim around engine/gear box joining? Thank you again. I was not sure about it. I guess I should file the rim off?

As for the straps - they will be made using black and chrome vinyl tape.

Hey Sergey, seeing that red engine, I'm reminded of seeing them before but I've never seen a light blue one! I like how it looks!

This picture was kindly granted by Don Schumaker, Mack Museum Curator

Thanks to every one.

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow what a build. Very nice detail and scratchbuilding.

STewart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Tony. Do you mean a rim around engine/gear box joining? Thank you again. I was not sure about it. I guess I should file the rim off?

As for the straps - they will be made using black and chrome vinyl tape.

This picture was kindly granted by Don Schumaker, Mack Museum Curator

Thanks to every one.

Sergy

The rim around the gearbox is fine, as it has some of the bolt detail, I would whoever fill the gap between the box and the engine to smooth it off, as between both is a flat area, if you can understand that, will see if I can find a picture,

as for the gear box clutch assembly, that is the fork that operates the clutch, it has a hydraulic line that runs to it, and a slave cylinder that operates a fork arrangement will find that pic to

Build is looking great, and the detail is very well done, I am looking forward to an update

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergy

The rim around the gearbox is fine, as it has some of the bolt detail, I would whoever fill the gap between the box and the engine to smooth it off, as between both is a flat area, if you can understand that, will see if I can find a picture,

as for the gear box clutch assembly, that is the fork that operates the clutch, it has a hydraulic line that runs to it, and a slave cylinder that operates a fork arrangement will find that pic to

Build is looking great, and the detail is very well done, I am looking forward to an update

Thank you Tony! Looking forward for the pictures.

Meanwhile small update:

As acumulator box consists of two halves I decided to detail it a little. Sprite can tin and cooper wire were used. Also drill bit and model saw:

65.jpg

To start I made sawcut in the bottom half (marked with red circles). Hinges are made of tin. Lockers are soldered wire.

66.jpg

67.jpg

Here how it will open:

64.jpg

... and close.

63.jpg

Altered first cross member.

61-1.jpg

Besides I've got etched hinges for bull bar and cab tilt:

62.jpg

The first one (marked with red circle) are on it's place. :)

By the way, can anyone show me how does real truck accumulator look like? I would like to detail it up too.

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergey, your attention to detail is amazing! The battery box looks like it's ready to go on a real Mack, but there is one suggestion I have for you on it. You might want to research the way that box opens, because at least on later model Macks that I have driven, the battery box is not hinged, the top just lifts off from the base. There are two "L" shaped brackets on the rear sides of the bottom half that catch brackets on the top half. I'm not sure if in the old days it was different and hinged, but the newer ones don't have a hinge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Let's continue:

70.jpg

Some work with bumper...

71.jpg

Upper brass parts are cab hinges I mentioned before.

72.jpg

The bumper will tilt (with bull bar) like this. Bumper hinge is marked with red.

73.jpg

The pieces of styrene, which hold the bumper in ride position are marked here with red.

75.jpg

On the bumper reverse side I made paces for hinge.

76.jpg

The cab was treated the same way.

74.jpg

Here are cab tilting rams (below) and radiator straps (above).

77.jpg

Some photos with the cab. Some parts are not glued, so they connected not firmly.

78.jpg

79.jpg

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

80.jpg

How do you think - is the cab sits truth and level?

81.jpg

82.jpg

83.jpg

Fuel tanks are ready for paint.

84.jpg

So exhaust staks (and chassis).

Edited by Sergey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fascinating work and great documentation of the build. It's been great fun following along .. B)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sergey,

This is an extraordinary level of Model Engineering. Fantastic attention to detail.

Thanks for sharing.

Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...