bigmikevee Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 (edited) Hey Gang, I was just wondering what you all used to scratchbuild exhaust pipes (and more), and why you prefer your methods and materials. I have been lucky enough to receive one of those sand/glass boxes that are used for heating and shaping eyeglasses. However, still trying to get the temp. right, either things barely move or they turn into cooked spaghetti. I have been using Evergreen solid rod in my attempts so far I would guess hollow tubing would not work. The problem with things getting too hot is that the ends swell up from the heat and end up looking like little barbells, also too hot produces little cracks when cooled. I am sure if I keep experimenting with temp. and duration it might get better, but.... curious on what you do and why you do it. Is solder better, what kind do we need to use, will it keep its shape, can it be painted, etc? What about aluminum and its qualities? Brass? Evergreen? What did I miss that you like? So many questions......so little brain......(sigh)! I know sprue can be heated over lighters or candles for simpler shapes, which is really great, but I tried it for a complex set of bends close together, and it just would not get precise enough in my clumsy ham-hands!! Your opinions and your shared techniques will, I'm sure, help a lot more folks than me, and I thank you in advance to all those that care to share. This place rocks!! Mike Edited April 12, 2011 by bigmikevee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Along the same lines of these questions, I would like to know a couple of things. For those who use solder to make exhaust pipes, do you polish it before you bend it to shape? It seems to me that you would have to. Otherwise you would mess up the bends in it while polishing it. Am I correct? Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jw78z28 Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 I will use solder when I need to build a custom set of headers. I think the size i have may be a little small its .062 dia. but I think its fine for street cars. I just wipe it with a rag a few times before i cut what i need. I painted a set after all the bending was done with krylon white primer with no problems. It seems to hold it shape real good and its easy to adj. when it comes time for final fit. I haven't used it for much else hope this is some help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 I've used the .062 solder for headers and exhaust pipes. Somewhere down the exhasut line, I use some aluminum tubing for a muffler and more tubing for the exhaust tips. Mike - have you tried brass rod in the Evergreen tubing? Even copper wire (electrical stuff) works. Insert the rod in the tubing and bend away. The brass and/or copper will hold the shape of the bend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW Dave Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 I'm a big fan of soft aluminum 'armature wire, which is avaiolable at most craft stores; it's originally intended for use in sculpting, and is available in a few sizes. It's as flexible and easy to polish as solder, but lighter. I used it to make the headers on my V Bucket: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm... V-bucket......... Oh, right... I like to use 3/32" solid core solder for my pipes, with aluminum tubing slipped onto the end for the tip(s). It accepts paint nicely, and can be polished out (I like to use Meguiar's Mag Polish with a microfiber cloth) to a very nice finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmikevee Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Hey Gang, Thanks for the replies so far, it is just so nice to have you out there for good answers. One quick question on the solder, I know there are resin core and non-resin core, seems to me I read a long time ago one won't work for what we need. Which one should we avoid? Thanks again folks!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmikevee Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Oh, and on the solder, after painted or polished do we need to clear it or seal it to keep the shine? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 Solid core solder - no resin!! I've painted the solder, just polished it up. Never cleared it either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmikevee Posted April 12, 2011 Author Share Posted April 12, 2011 Hey Jim, Thanks for the info on the solder, on your above post on the Evergreen I was using the solid rod, not the hollow tube, do you think I should try the tube/brass combo you mentioned? Thanks. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewart Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 I use solder. 0.062 works well for street car headers but Is a bit small for anything more. I was able to find .092 solder that is a very good size for larger diameter headers. For complete exhaust systems, I mostly use 0.125 solder for the rest of the exhaust system. STewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 I agree with Mike. Thanks for all of the help. I've used solder to make headers before and I really liked it. I've just never painted or polished it. I'll have to try some of that armature wire too. Thanks again. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted April 13, 2011 Share Posted April 13, 2011 Can't hurt to try it out, Mike. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is stretching the solder. pull a length of solder from the reel, but leave it attached. Get a grip with some pliers at the loose end and pull. You'll feel the solder strectching and making it straight as an arrow. Then cut off the length you'll need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 The 062 solder works well for small block headers. As far as exhaust pipe if you mark your bends in solid plastic rod you do not need heat...just bend it slow...You can add tips from tubing...easy to polish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 It's very easy once you get the hang of it, Mike! I'm just starting to get into making my own 4-into one header collectors that actually look convincing... THAT'S a bit more vexing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retrobuilder Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 I use pick-up sticks(the toy game)they make good exhaust or roll bars. you have to cut the pointed end off. I have found you can cold bend these and they maintain their shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gasser59 Posted April 20, 2011 Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) All great info. I've built up a set of headers with solder and found it to be fairly easy to do. I used the solid solder made for metal work at one of the large home centers. Radio Shack only carries the resin type. For a collector, I used the appropriate diameter section an old extendable radio antenna. I cut it with a tubing cutter (shown above) which rounds the cut end down and when filed on the inside with a round file a bit in four opposing directions, fit right over the solder ends perfectly. I like the antenna for several reasons; one - its already chromed and two - its the right scale thickness. I was really dreading building up some headers with solder and found its easier than I had thought. Edited April 20, 2011 by gasser59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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