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I have found it too hard to control. It comes out thick. I had to strip it off the body I was working on. I will decant it into a jar, thin it, and airbrush it next time. Some fellows seem to have had good luck heating the can in warm water prior to spraying. Please do not heat it on a stove or with boiling water. I'm sure others have good recommendations. Aaron Dupont

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I would have to agree........... allowing this paint to be sprayed into an airbrush jar is the way to go . It really does come out very inconsistently . This applies to ALL Of the Testors Candy or Translucent paints . By spraying and using an airbrush, you have a better nozzle in which to shoot this paint . You also want to shoot this out as thinly as possible . This stuff is very subceptable to a run or a sag ... Ed Shaver

Edited by Eshaver
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Guest Johnny

Have to be really careful on the overlap and paint past the end of the piece you are painting.

I always had trouble with it running or buildup on edges!:)

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I would have to agree........... allowing this paint to be sprayed into an airbrush jar is the way to go . It really does come out very inconsistently . This applies to ALL Of the Testors Candy or Translucent paints . By spraying and using an airbrush, you have a better nozzle in which to shoot this paint . You also want to shoot this out as thinly as possible . This stuff is very subceptable to a run or a sag ... Ed Shaver

Airbrushing candies takes a wide spray pattern and practice. I decanted a couple of Tamiya candies for a custom mix on my Aston Martic DBS. I ended up with a tiger-striped paint job. Not cool.

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if you have a spare body i would try it on that first to see if it turns out okay. i've tried candy paints from the can and the air brush and just haven't been able to get it to look right yet. all i can say is just go for it.

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Guest Johnny

No airbrush here fellas.... only spray cans.

Anyone with any help with spray cans?

I also fill a pan with hot tap water and set the can in it before spraying. It help a lot as it thins the paint otherwise it comes out pretty thick.

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using tamiya's clear red works really nice over many base colors, plus it sprays on evenly and predictably. i shot it over mica red on a red primer and it came out looking real deep and nice. in my experience way easier and more forgiving than those testors candy colors in cans.

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Tamiya lacquer spray cans are the way to go . Warm with hot tap water before use . (If you can't put your finger in it , it's too hot) . You can get many different effects by using different base coats . Gold and silver are common choices and Tamiya's silver leaf and gold are great to use . But for a really cool effect spray Tamiya's clear colors over a base coat of Testors Diamond dust silver metallic lacquer . This paint has a coarse pigment that looks fantastic under the candy colors . I just finished the "Frankonis,Coil,and Minick" Chi-Town Hustler . This has a candy red finish so I sprayed mine with a gold base on the top(Tamiya) and a silver diamond dust on the sides(Testors). This model should be done in the next week or so , I'll try and post some pics then. Hope this helps.

Take care and see you around the clubhouse

Steve D.

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Spray cans? Heck yeah! Tamiya is the way to go. (To be fair, I have not tried Testors lacquers) Like the other guys said, warm up the can first. For a base coat, your imagination is the only limit. I tried to make a candy burgundy by spraying Tamiya red over Tamiya dark grey (a military shade, also in a can). That was before I found out that burgundy is really purple with very little blue in it. It turned out nice, though.

If you do a two-tone paint job, use Tamiya masking tape. It is very thin and holds a really clean line.

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As the others have mentioned, It would be a GREAT idea to practice on a junk body.

Candies take a special technique to do--------one of the things you'll want to do is to count your strokes. Also, you'll want to paint in a criss-cross way on the body to avoid "tiger stripes". You can spray diagonally one way say across the body, and then go diagonally the other way to make full coverage.

Counting your strokes for each side can also minimize one side being darker than the other and vice-versa.

As they say "Practice Makes Perfect! " B)

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No airbrush here fellas.... only spray cans.

Anyone with any help with spray cans?

Keith,

I have two air brushes and use them as little as possible...I would suggest a couple things for you to try. The first being I would use a black nozzle from one of the Testors lacquer products, as they tend to produce a better spray pattern, and secondly warm the can up. Run it under warm/hot water under the sink, USE CARE here, you do not to make it too hot.

Or if the silver sprayed is a lacquer product, you may want to try a Tamiya "clear" spray, and they spray much nicer, and will make getting a "candy" finish a little easier.

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My experience from 20+ years of custom painting is that when using spray cans.....MIST your layers of paint, keeping your can a bit further away than usual with candy's, until you have the depth you desire in your color. Let each mist coat tack up about 15 minutes between coats. Go S-L-O-W...keeping the can parallel to the painting surface with your run starting before the car and ending after the car. Now by slow, I mean a steady even pass, not DEAD slow or it will run...candy is thin. Use a turntable or rotisserie to turn the body NOT the can of paint. Paint will fall differently with different angles of spray that's why it's important to keep the spray can the same angle and speed over the entire car or piece you're painting. Take your time and you can have great results with aerosol cans of candy colors. Just remember, you can't patch panel fix a candy paint job. It has to be stripped and completely re-done. The thing with candy's is, the more paint you lay down, the darker it gets so patience ( and consistency) is a virtue here. Hope this helps some..good luck and have fun

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For getting nice even coverage from a spray bomb, Plasti-cote vinyl colors and their automotive touch up lacquer primers and paints have a blue fan spray nozzle that is a great replacement for the Testors (and other brands) round spray pattern nozzle. I have a few I clean with lacquer thinner and keep for future spray jobs.

I haven't used Testors spray enamels in a very long time and like others have said, would recommend using a lacquer for painting a body. I remember the enamels coming out thick and the pressure dying out pretty fast. If you are going to use the Testors I would make sure to have 2 or 3 cans on hand in case you run out of paint....or pressure.:blink: I put my paint cans in my dehydrator to warm them, but putting the can in a bowl of warm tapwater will help the paint flow and increase the pressure a bit too, just make sure you wipe all the water off the can before spraying, trust me on this. :unsure: Practice on a scrap body or at least a plastic spoon to get a feel for the way it sprays, flows out on the surface and for checking dry times between coats. Take a couple deep breaths, take your time, make sure to start and stop your spray past the ends of the body/parts, overlap your passes 50%, give all your parts the same number and thickness of coats and trust me, use the blue fan spray nozzle.

There is some good info here, but I would also check House of Kolor and TCP Global website's for possible candy spraying tips, or just a "candy paint spraying tips" general web search should turn up something. Most info will be for 1:1 but just scale it down ;)

This was sprayed with House of Kolor spray cans, Apple Red and Cobalt(?)blue candies over pearl white using the nozzle mentioned above. Nice and even with no striping....Yay ;)

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Edited by novadose71
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