Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum
Sign in to follow this  
1972coronet

Keith Marks' '76 Dart Lite Decals

Recommended Posts

I was pursuing Keith Marks' site last night and I noticed that he's got a decal set for the obscure 1976 Dart Sport "Dart Lite" ; also included are decals for the "Spirit of '76" version .

The set looks great! It has the interior's seat and door panel inserts , as well as decals for the gauges and for all exterior 'emblems' .

While I've heard nothing but good things about Mr. Marks' products , I'm interested in knowing as to whether or not anyone's used this set in particular .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are two tricks in using Keith Marks decals...

1: They are VERY thin. Make sure to dip the decal in water for no more than 2 to 3 seconds. This will be more than enough time to slide it off for placement. Fingers should be damp, not soaked, when handling the decal for placement. Any excess water can tear the decal.

2: Being done on laserjet paper, they have no defined borders. Unlike Revell, MPC, and others, Keith's decals have no clear definable border to show where the decal ends. This means you need to cut the decal close for a clean fit, OR you can leave enough space for the tweezers to grip the decal, slide it off from the paper, and then trim off what is not used.

Everything else applies with the exception of Micro Sol and Micro Set (if you happen to use these...). Micro Set can be used SPARINGLY without trouble but be very careful with Micro Sol. The thin decals can tear apart easy enough, using Micro Sol can weaken them further if over used.

Other than that, they're a cinch to use and make a muscle car look awesome!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are two tricks in using Keith Marks decals...

1: They are VERY thin. Make sure to dip the decal in water for no more than 2 to 3 seconds. This will be more than enough time to slide it off for placement. Fingers should be damp, not soaked, when handling the decal for placement. Any excess water can tear the decal.

2: Being done on laserjet paper, they have no defined borders. Unlike Revell, MPC, and others, Keith's decals have no clear definable border to show where the decal ends. This means you need to cut the decal close for a clean fit, OR you can leave enough space for the tweezers to grip the decal, slide it off from the paper, and then trim off what is not used.

Everything else applies with the exception of Micro Sol and Micro Set (if you happen to use these...). Micro Set can be used SPARINGLY without trouble but be very careful with Micro Sol. The thin decals can tear apart easy enough, using Micro Sol can weaken them further if over used.

Other than that, they're a cinch to use and make a muscle car look awesome!

Thanks for the heads up on them and for your opinions / advice .

The whole undefined image borders thing reminds me of how MPC's decals were back in the old days ! Those used to frustrate the hell outta me when I was a kid ! The first MPC kit I built was the '75 Pinto Sportabout ; and when I went to apply its decals , I just trimmed them with a 1/2" border . NOT !! That wasn't good enough ... plus , MPC's decals were brittle and fragile even when they were NEW !

Granted , I was 5 years old when I built that '75 Pinto ; however , "once bitten , twice shy" truly applied , as it took me years before I added decals to another kit again !

Never-the-less ...

I'll give the Marks decals a shot . I'm glad you made mention of their sensitivity to setting solutions :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That advice holds true for pretty much any computer-printed decals ... waxing them WILL destroy them.

I've never tried clear-coating Keith's decals, either, but, the only clear I'd feel even remotely comfortable using over them would be Future.

Brushing a coat of Microscale Liquid Decal Film on Keith's decal sheets prior to use also makes them much easier to work with. Here's a link ... http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=6

If you use Liquid Decal Film on Keith's decals and apply them with Micro Set, you can clear with Tamiya TS-13. Just use light coats at first before any final wet coats and allow 30 minutes between all coats. I use this method with Keith Marks, Fred Cady, Slixx and any other decals, kit or otherwise.

Scale Motorsports CF decals...

DSCN0136-vi.jpg

Keith Marks...

100_1229-vi.jpg

Fred Cady...

100_1679-vi.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I love Keith Marks Decals... I have bought at least 13 of them. Yes they are thin and you have to cut near the decal to apply, but if you be careful they will go on smoothly and they will look GREAT!!!

Here's some of the ones I bought and applied:

1969 Camaro SS DX-1 Decals

69_Camaro_SS_DX1-13-m.jpg

69_Camaro_SS_DX1-12-m.jpg

1970 Chevy Nova Yenko Deuce Decals

70_Yenko_Deuce_Nova-00-m.JPG

70_Yenko_Deuce_Nova-05-m.JPG

Some more...

1969 Camaro ZL-1 Prototype Decals

69_Camaro_ZL-1_Pro-00-m.JPG

69_Camaro_ZL-1_Pro-09-m.JPG

1969 Camaro Yenko

69_Yenko_Camaro-05-m.JPG

69_Yenko_Camaro-11-m.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...