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'67 Triumph TR4A 4-17-18 Mirror update


Foxer

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This is a build of the 1967 TR4A I bought when I exited the Army in 1969. I have an Air-Trax TR4A kit which is pretty detailed for a 1/32 model including a full engine, but, I'm a scale tyrant and I like all the builds on my shelf to match, so 1/25 - 1/24 is my preference. Therefore I picked up the Air-Trax TR4 1/24 resin kit. The link has some photos of what is included in this resin kit. A Gunze Sangyo Triumph TR3 is the recommended donor kit and the Minicraft 1958 Triumph TR3A kit is mentioned as another possible donor. I have both kits so will show a bit of both and how I decided which to use.

So here's a few shots of my 1:1 to start. I drove it all year as I was stationed about a hour and half away at Ft. Devens, MA waiting for my Medical Discharge. just throw some chains on for those bad days. :lol:
TR4aSnow.thumb.jpg.1d0a97ea52ece7435b3c7TR4A_Interior_light_scan0033.thumb.JPG.5TR4A_scan0029.thumb.jpg.e073b03c0b7a917a

 

Edited by Foxer
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The Air-Trax body is pretty thick and needed some grinding to fit the "frame/wheel wells" from the donor kits. The Gunze kit has the floor pan molded separately needing the firewall and front wheel wells added. I glued them with superglue so I could test fit. Below is the body and a couple shots after grinding.

IMG 7187-vi

TR4 body DSC 9234

TR4 body DSC 9235

 

Here is the Gunze Sangyo frame assembly stuck into the body. This will need additional massaging to fit.

TR4  Gunze frame in body DSC 9242

TR4 Gunze frame DSC 9240

The Minicraft frame is all one piece and I like how it fits. I cut about an eight of an inch off the back and cut it flush to the wheel wells at the front. I think this one is gonna be the keeper for the build. The rear of the front wheel wells needs to be rebuilt to slope backwards to match the body openings.

wheel well DSC 9310

 

I welcome all questions, comments, or criticisms

Edited by Foxer
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Somebody had a TR4A IRS when I was in college and I wanted one. Never got it. Nice looking cars.

The TR4A introduced IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) to the Triumph line. Would you believe, I sold the TR4A when I went back to college assuming I could never get my speakers and gear in it for the 14 hour drive to Indiana. I got a VW Beetle for that move. :o I was always sorry for it .... ^_^

The Air-Trax kit actually comes with a one piece engine and a few pieces that look like the intake manifold (they are all out in the Westley's Bleach right now and can't look). I keep thinking it would be great to open the hood and drop the engine in, but it would triple the work I'd have to do and my competition rate has been bad enough as it is! :P

Edited by Foxer
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In 1971 I owned a 1968 TR250. For those who don't know, this was the transition year when Triumph went from the TR4A to the TR6. It was basically the TR4A body and frame with the TR6 6 cylinder engine. Mine was red with a sliver stripe across the front end. Loved that little car but there was ALWAYS some small thing going wrong with it, especially with the Lucas electrics!!! I mean mostly small things like switches breaking, a door handle falling off...things like that. Then one day I backed out of the driveway, put it in first to take off and the tranny went! I was a student in Trade School for Tool and Die making at the time and I ended up making new gears in school. Sometimes I wish I still had that car but I'd have a hard time getting into it now! :)

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Interesting project going on. Great to see these Finnish resin kits being built. I like that car, body design is good. Progress looks great too, can't wait to see this one finished. Great Job.

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Loved that little car but there was ALWAYS some small thing going wrong with it, especially with the Lucas electrics!!! I mean mostly small things like switches breaking, a door handle falling off...things like that.



Now I remember why I sold it ... :lol: Edited by Foxer
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Nice project. I am a fan of most 60s era two seat roadsters and really like the looks of the TR-4. I too have the 1/32 airfix kit bit would love to see this 1/24 version go together.

How is the quality of the body and other parts on the Air-Trax kit?

Edited by Coyotehybrids
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I'm overwhelmed at the TR experience and love here. :unsure:

I DO have to put in a bad word for SU carb syncing, though. :D

Body has been soaking in the Westly's last day or so but grinding will recommence tomorrow.

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A lot more grinding and fitting today, mostly on the interior panels as the frame is fitting well. I will need to make a floor, hopefully the Minicraft TR3 floor will work with some mods.

 

The need for reshaping of the rear of the wheel wells can be seen in this photo. This is due to the difference in shape for the TR4 and TR3 wheel openings. It should only need some trimming and added sheet plastic to get the slope.

wheel well DSC 9310

The interior panels need considerable sanding to get a fit along the body edges. The photo gives an idea of the work required and much more needed. I will have to make a tonneau cover for the top so most of the edges won't be seen and I can ease up on this a bit. I wonder if some kit has something I could adopt for the tonneau cover?

back interior DSC 9676

The seats from the Gunze kit are close to the correct shape for an American TR4A and I'll be using them. The black seat is the Gunze and the white one is the resin Air-Trax seat. It is shaped like a TR3 seat and maybe the European TR4's were the same.

seats DSC 9309

Edited by Foxer
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  • 3 weeks later...

I made some progress finishing off the body. There were pinholes along the bottom edges and along one front fender top chrome strip.

front DSC 9509

The bottom edge of the trunk was really a mess with holes spaced along the edge. I did some putty on it and scraped the line but most of the putty came out before the primer coat to check things. I may have to fill the whole thing and re-scribe a new line.

trunk panel line DSC 1712

I also did more grinding on the body edges and wheel wells thinning to less than half the original thickness. The front grill area needs shaping with putty on the driver's side to proper shape. I will have to create the rear wheel wells that intrude on the interior. The rear and side pieces that come with the kit are contoured to fit around them but neither TR3 donor kit has these sections of wheel well with them. The TR3's use separate interior pieces that are not correct for a TR4.

 

As a whole the body is good but it is very thick and the areas mentioned need bodywork to bring back the shape. I wouldn't recommend this one to a beginner. I believe the later body's by Air-Trax are much higher quality.

PE fret DSC 1748

The PE pieces for the grill, logos and steering wheel do look fantastic.

Edited by Foxer
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In 1971 I owned a 1968 TR250. For those who don't know, this was the transition year when Triumph went from the TR4A to the TR6. It was basically the TR4A body and frame with the TR6 6 cylinder engine. Mine was red with a sliver stripe across the front end. Loved that little car but there was ALWAYS some small thing going wrong with it, especially with the Lucas electrics!!! I mean mostly small things like switches breaking, a door handle falling off...things like that. Then one day I backed out of the driveway, put it in first to take off and the tranny went! I was a student in Trade School for Tool and Die making at the time and I ended up making new gears in school. Sometimes I wish I still had that car but I'd have a hard time getting into it now! ;)

There's a reason why a British car club in California calls themselves the "Sons of Lucas."

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Wow, that resin body is a project in itself, before you even start building the car! I don't envy you turning this "sow's ear into a silk purse". Is it just the photo or is that rear end warped? :mellow:

I'll keep glued to this one because a) I know you can do it and B) it's a neat British sports car. :rolleyes:

Tony

Edited by GTMust
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There's a reason why a British car club in California calls themselves the "Sons of Lucas."

Well I can certainly relate to THAT! B)

A few years ago at the garage I was managing, we had a lady bring in her TR6 for some work. Back when I had my TR250 I was only about 160 lbs and I could easily get in and out of the car. Now I weigh...well...ahem...considerably more than 160...and man I gotta tell ya, I couldn't even get INTO that car unless I put the top down! :lol::lol::lol:

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I am a Big fan of British Sports Cars...for this is how i learned my Automotive Mechanic Skills B) Are you going to wire "Detail" the car? Please stay away from Lucas..

Nice job you have going on there..will sure keep my eye on this...Good Luck...Cheers

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This needed rear wheel wells as they show in the interior. The donor frame has only the rear portion of the rear wheels. I cut the rear wheel wells off the frame of a '51 Chevy convertible that was already being used as a parts car. I also took the convertible boot to cut down and possibly use if I cant find another. After they were fitted and glues to the body the donor frame wheel wells were cut down to match. Not a perfect match, but when painted black they will be hardly noticeable. It took more grinding to thin the body more where the wheel wells fit and I did the final thinning and smoothing and thinning of the edges around the wheel openings.

wheelwell DSC 9565

wheelwell DSC 9569

Edited by Foxer
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This is one instance where using the Gunze frame may work easier. The initial fit may need more massaging to get it into the body (see first page), but it does have the rear wheel wells and the interior pieces are sized to fit. They do only need minor sanding for a close fit with my new wheel wells.

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