Jackson Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 (edited) How long should I wait after applying decals to clearcoat a model? I'm using the Tamiya TS sprays for the color coats and TS-13 for the clearcoat. I would like to avoid the clear cracking or doing anything else it's not supposed to. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Edited June 18, 2011 by Jackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gibbons Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Can't say I can actually answer your question, but here's what I do. I used to clearcoat over decals. I don't anymore (especially after the days back when, using Testors clear that yellowed in a heartbeat.) I'll only clear over decals (now using Tamiya clear) when I'm building a vintage racer where the numbers or graphics were painted on. Decals that depict vinyl graphics or "stickers" as used these days, don't have a high gloss finish. If I'm going to gloss a paintjob, I do it before the decals. After the decals are applied and fully set, I wax over them with The Treatment or Tamiya's Model Wax. Regardless, I always allow my decals to dry completely. I have no clue as to what is the right time to wait, as I will let the model sit for several days after decaling before I wax. It likely won't need that much time, but I'm overcautious, especially when building an older resin race car model for someone, and chances of getting new decals are zero. Humidity, whether you used a setting solution, etc., can be a factor in proper drying. I don't have a dehydrator as some of the folks here do, so I "wet my finger, and stick it into the wind" to determine when I feel the decals are completely set. Hopefully, someone with better info than I'm giving can answer that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gibbons Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 By the way, I've never had a cracking problem so far with Tamiya clear over decals and Tamiya paint. You should be fine since you are using Tamiya paint throughout. I can't vouch for using their clear over someone else's lacquers like automotive paint, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 Whatever you do, test the clear on a scrap portion of the decal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have 600.00 worth of Kenworth cab/hood and sleeper that I'm not sure what I'm going to do with as the clear attacked the decals! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ewaskew Posted June 18, 2011 Share Posted June 18, 2011 If I used decals I would let them dry at least a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackson Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 (edited) Thanks for your help, everyone - I truly appreciate it. Can't say I can actually answer your question, but here's what I do. I used to clearcoat over decals. I don't anymore (especially after the days back when, using Testors clear that yellowed in a heartbeat.) I'll only clear over decals (now using Tamiya clear) when I'm building a vintage racer where the numbers or graphics were painted on. Decals that depict vinyl graphics or "stickers" as used these days, don't have a high gloss finish. If I'm going to gloss a paintjob, I do it before the decals. After the decals are applied and fully set, I wax over them with The Treatment or Tamiya's Model Wax. Regardless, I always allow my decals to dry completely. I have no clue as to what is the right time to wait, as I will let the model sit for several days after decaling before I wax. It likely won't need that much time, but I'm overcautious, especially when building an older resin race car model for someone, and chances of getting new decals are zero. Humidity, whether you used a setting solution, etc., can be a factor in proper drying. I don't have a dehydrator as some of the folks here do, so I "wet my finger, and stick it into the wind" to determine when I feel the decals are completely set. Hopefully, someone with better info than I'm giving can answer that. That's what I thought, Jim. Usually on race cars, you can see the difference between the paint and sponsor decals. By the way, I've never had a cracking problem so far with Tamiya clear over decals and Tamiya paint. You should be fine since you are using Tamiya paint throughout. I can't vouch for using their clear over someone else's lacquers like automotive paint, though. The only reason I was worried was because I read an article on Scale Auto's website that said that you had to clear right after the final coat of paint or after the paint fumed out for a month (when using Tamiya paints). Edited June 19, 2011 by Jackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Gibbons Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Thanks for your help, everyone - I truly appreciate it. That's what I thought, Jim. Usually on race cars, you can see the difference between the paint and sponsor decals. The only reason I was worried was because I read an article on Scale Auto's website that said that you had to clear right after the final coat of paint or after the paint fumed out for a month (when using Tamiya paints). That one I can't answer; the last time I glossed over paint and decals was on a Tamiya Lotus 7, and it sat painted for well over a month before I added decals and clear. I prefer to have a patient, Zen attitude when it comes to models! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoom Zoom Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 I'm not really sure if there's still a cracking issue or not; never happened to me, it did to others, haven't heard about it in ages. As for spraying over decals...BE CAREFUL! Some decals can take the "heat" of the Tamiya clear, others cannot. You are best to sneak up on the clear...apply in thin mist coats, after the decals are thoroughly dry. I decant/airbrush it, and that's the only way I'd really trust it over decals. One brand of decals may be just fine, another could lead to disaster if you are not really careful. Tread lightly. I would advise testing your paint/decal combo on a spoon. Get a box of disposable white plastic spoons at the grocery store, they're great for testing paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbwelda Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 what everyone else said is true and also build up a couple of mist coats before really dumping it on. i have never had a problem with tamiya clear and if anything it doesnt cover as much as it should and so i often use model master clear for a final coat. sometimes tamiya clear doesnt really give enough of a "wet" look as i usually like. and i think i have only once had a problem with clear coats and that was when i used some hardware store gloss clear, krylon probably, and put on too much too soon, turned into a stripper right there in front of my eyes. pain jobs indeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jackson Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 (edited) Thanks again for helping out, everyone. I will be sure to test out the clear and decal combo before I try it on the real model. Edited June 19, 2011 by Jackson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sickfish Posted June 19, 2011 Share Posted June 19, 2011 Personally I've never had a problem applying clear over decals, of any brand or from any kit, within 24-48hrs of applying said decals. I use both Alcad Clear Gloss & Auotmotive 2 pack ( H.O.K ) The Automotive 2-pack is extremely hardy, dries fast & is very durable, not to mention brilliant shine Here's the hood of my latest build, 09 Challenger, with decals applied , clear coated within 24hrs & polished/waxed within a further 24hrs... Cheers, Cliffo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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