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Swamp Werkes


MikeMc

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As an afterthought, you may want to check out my "Two car garage" diorama WIP on page 2 of these diorama threads. It may give you some help with basic structures and roof construction, etc. I never did go any further with all the lighting suggestions.... still sitting pretty much as you see it, but I use it for posting "under glass" photos like the ones at the end of the Fox Mustang CPB.

Tony

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Thanks for the tips Tony....I have your garage bookmarked also

I went out to the shop and found some goodies....balsa sheet, bass plank, and a bit more foamcore....did a bit of modification to the frame and made a couple of gables..gotta cover them now, as I had all this leftover 3/16 balsa sheets 36" long....Perfect sheathing with a trim..

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I like the set up and the execution so far. This one is going to make a nice backdrop for photographing your models. Great going.

Thanks Doc...Any weathering thoughts on this one from your state of mind???

Thanks to Tony...I now have some decent ends....I went to Michaels for some basswood...found these, which worked out perfect.....

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Glad I used the sticks made the ends a snap to fab up, clamped up till dry, trimmed the excess wood..... looks like a good fit!

I already had glued the sills to the frame so the ends will clamp up and glue to the sills and then the whole top will lift off....I hope :lol::(

Mocked up the sheathing...I think I need 1 more roof support in the middle to prevent waves under the metal ribbed roofing....this is shaping up!!!

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Coming along great Mike.

But just one more thing........ if you use foamcore board for the roof instead of basswood, it will be much stronger...... and give you a 3/16" edge around the roof to glue your fascia board to. And overhang it at the ends to create a "Gable end overhang" instead of flush with the end wall.

Of cours, you may have a reason for doing it the way you have......

Tony

Edited by GTMust
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Tony , on a roof panel, watch using Foam Core . If you need to use a lot of Glue , it seems to make a large Foam Core panel warp , BIG TIME ! I prefer to use a 1/8th inch piece of Berch Plywood as it's dimensionally stable and it dosent warp as much . Ed Shaver

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Thanks Ed..... Never had any problem so far...... Maybe because I keep the glue down to a minimum and just around the edges rather than across the whole thing. Covering the whole surface with white glue will cause warping, so I try to keep the glue pattern strategically placed. If I need full surface to surface contact, I will place the sandwiched materials face down on a flat surface, pile as many heavy books as I can on it and let it dry for at least 24 hrs or longer. This will usually prevent warping.

I have had some problem in the past though with 1/2" - 3/4" insulation board warping, when using it as a base and soaking it with the water/dishsoap to apply the surface materials. Now I screw through it and glue (carpenter's glue) the insulation down to a piece of min 1/2" plywood first and that solves the problem. I like using the insultion as a base as it is easy to carve in ditches and such details and also poke fence posts and such into.

I try to use Elmer's carpenter's glue rather that white glue as it is less watery and dries to a much stronger bond, especially on edge to edge contact.

Your comment is a great piece of information for beginners.

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Tony, mabie I'll do a book , self published of course on building buildings some day . Course I can't do a deal through real Publishers cause they always want to screw it up with price guides and the like ......... Ed Shaver

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Built 1 more ridge support for the middle, installed it with aileens and glued the ridge in. After all was dry I Sheathed the roof with my wood ...glued it up with carpenters yellow glue and then made a second fascia that tied it all together. When things were drying I cut up and made the frame for the tin roof over the side door....This place is starting to take shape!!

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Hey Mike,

I'm really impressed with the way you are putting your new found information to work for you. I see some of Ken Hamilton's ideas in that side roof. The build is really coming together... very impressive. But there is one major detail that is still bothering me (call me "picky").

On that side door and the overhead door, If you don't want to cut them out and set them back behind the wall thickness, you may consider gluing a thin frame around the door opening to give it an impression of depth... if you know what I mean..... but not the best solution as it wouldn't be like that in real life. But the doors would look more real if they were set back behind the concrete block (which would also mean thickening the wall out at the door opening, and creating a whole bunch of new detail issue for the inside of the wall).

It all depends how far you want to go with the realism of it and get rid of the "toy like" appearance as it comes in the kit.

By the way.... what are "aileens"..... not a term I'm familiar with?

Tony

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Hey Mike,

I'm really impressed with the way you are putting your new found information to work for you. I see some of Ken Hamilton's ideas in that side roof. The build is really coming together... very impressive. But there is one major detail that is still bothering me (call me "picky").

On that side door and the overhead door, If you don't want to cut them out and set them back behind the wall thickness, you may consider gluing a thin frame around the door opening to give it an impression of depth... if you know what I mean..... but not the best solution as it wouldn't be like that in real life. But the doors would look more real if they were set back behind the concrete block (which would also mean thickening the wall out at the door opening, and creating a whole bunch of new detail issue for the inside of the wall).

It all depends how far you want to go with the realism of it and get rid of the "toy like" appearance as it comes in the kit.

By the way.... what are "aileens"..... not a term I'm familiar with?

Tony

Hey Tony.....great eyes....The shed roof is straight out of Kens book! I normally wouldn't copy things..but that was exactly what I needed...I changed the size a bit for my version... I wish you had givin me the door frame idea earlier...great idea...I'm planning on a series of washes to make the frame details stand out more...don't think I can add it now w/o major repainting...

As this is my first Dio....I am learning totally different things..and having a ball.

"Aileens" is also called "tacky glue"...a thick white glue I get it a Michaels....between that and "crafters choice ultimate" I use them for all mockups..plastic and wood. It is water soluble...but it does take awhile to dry

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Got the side roof started today....Red oxide primer, then some salt and baking powder, let it dry and then I sprayed some alum metalizer on it, and let dry overnight...I did rough up some parts of it and a couple of creases for character...This morning I used a stiff brush to remove some texture, showing the "rust" under.Then a shot of dullkote and now a bit of weathering with some ink wash......

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Thanks Tony....The majority of the scape is finished...still more weeds to plant and stains to make. I'm now going to start the weathering processes on the building and roof...more to come!

Edited by MIKE THE MANIAC
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Found the watchdawg........looking for the chain still

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Hey gator! If yer still looking for chain link and you have a MIcheals art store near ya in the jewelery making section you find it there! I have some myself so if you dont have one near ya! Id be more than happy to send ya some!

Also the dio is coming along awesome!

A really neat trick to make worn down asphalt

1 potting soil filtered to get the fine grains

2. 3m spray adhesive

3. section off the area to be paved and then spray a good amount of spray adhesive then go nuts with the soil. even it out and then spary a coat of 3m on top of! Let it dry a bit and then begin to roll over it with a pen. If pot holes is what yer lookin for... leave little mounds scattered so that the rolling begins to remove some of the soil that has spray beneath it and youll eventually start to see holes in the pavement! I spray a little more 3m where the potholes are so that it sinks in and yer not left with loose soil! Whats cool is the 3m gives the soil a hard old ashpalt look to it!

Keep on wit the keepin on!

Edited by ajulia
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