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Should I use Testors Decal Bonder Spray? Or look for an alternitive?


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I just got the Testors Decal set a few days ago, tired out the software on my computer (have to upgrade to the standard edtion disc because it won't let me make my own disigns, GRRRRR) made up a test licence plate and printed on the decal sheet from from my printer.

But here's the question. Is the Testors decal bonder spray any good? or is it garbarfage like all there other spray can products (cept for the lacquers, which are good for what they are).

Does Krylon make something like it that I can afford or get anywere? (and that DEFINITLY works) Because even if the testors stuff is good or bad, It's pretty hard to get over here because most LHS's don't carry it like with the decal set or sheets (had to hav it ordered for me by a trusty LHS). Also, most online retailers charge waaaaaaaaaaay too much for just the can alone even with shipping.

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Which version of the Krylon Crystal Clear is it that you use? The Normal stuff or the Triple Thick Finish?

BTW, I absolutely HATED Testors High Gloss Clear Coat. Messy, horribly tempriture-sensitive, and on every single can I bought!

Edit: Sorry about that gag. It's something that I happened to notice, and I thought it would be a tad funny to post here. But after realizeing what I posted didn't sound too good for som ppl, I decided i went a tad overboard and I edited it to keep the mods happy. Hey, we all get kinda carryed away with that sometimes so we'll learn.

Edited by V-spec
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I'm just going to reinforce everything Futurabat said, yes, give the decals a day for the ink to dry before spraying the coating. I use Krylon also but any acrylic clear will work. A few light coats are the key.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I use Testors over the decals but I do let the decals dry to the touch before I spray the sealer on. I've never had any problems this way. I also let the decals dry over night before I use them. I use a couple of light coats of sealer and then one heavy coat and let that dry. Dan

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I'm just gassing out here...but I suspect you had a fresh black ink cartrige at the time?

Actually it was not a fresh cartridge. I tried different print resolutions, and waited 24 hours before clearing it. It ran every time. The first attempt with the other clear worked perfectly. FWIW, this was black stripes on white decal paper. I don't know why it happened, but I'll just stick with the other clear. ;)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Allright, i made up som plate decals with my printer.

Well. The first batch came out OK save for the testors decal bonder making the colors crack, but that wasn't the real issue to worry about. The big thing that happend was that the decal backing IS FULLY TRANSPARENT which means after the decal slides of the paper. Well, can we say thats transparent too.

Second one came out better because I used krylon cristal clear, plus it was a bigger unit so no cracking nor bleed through. But this was a stripe graphic and the backing on that was solid white meaning the decal had a white backing between the stirpes and the sides.

So the problem I have is not with the ink, but the horribly over priced decal paper made out of recycled TP. So, does anyone make cartograpgh decal paper or that of a higher quality than testors.

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WOW guys, I have had no problems using Testors decal paper. Now, I do use a Canon photo printer when I print on them. I don't know if that makes any difference or not. All I know is, I don't have any problems. I'll be glad to take the decal paper off your hands if you throw it out. Dan

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Which version of the Krylon Crystal Clear is it that you use? The Normal stuff or the Triple Thick Finish

the triple thick is called "Glaze"...... not a different version, it's different product, formulated to spray on pottery,,,

I've tried it but seem to get a better gloss using the crystal clear spray

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