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does anyone know where to get decals that replicate bare un-gelcoated fiberglass?


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Sounds like you may have discovered a niche. If it were me, I'd probably take a camera with me to an auto swap meet, or local body shop where 'in-progress' fiberglass work might be seen. Then snap some good close-up images of the repair work you like, download them onto your computer, (manipulate with Photoshop, if necessary), then print them on white decal paper. Voila! You've got scale fiberglass. You'll probably need to provide some texture to the area on the model you're looking to do your 'glass work'. I'd suggest a thin application of filler then lightly drag a bristle brush across the filler in a cross-hatch fashion. Good luck sir, let us know how you come out.

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Why not use crinkle finish paint?

Why not , indeed!. Good idea. I suggested the filler/brush option as it would provide the cross-hatch pattern most associated with fiberglass. Basically, you're looking for some texture to lay your decal over, should you choose that route.

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Darin, uh have you thought of visiting a boat repair shop ? This time of year, boaters are generally doing this sort of thing if you're in the warmer climates . If you're in the far North, maybe not .I was in this business for awhile doing molds and it's the off season when I did Fiberglass repairs . Ed Shaver

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I use real fiberglass on my projects...my LHS carries different "scaled" cloths and mats intended for use on R/C flying planes....I cut templates; then use tamiya clears (yellow/green/orange) to make the brownish resin look; then wet out the cloth with the mix...looks pretty convincing when done....I use this method on all of my Tamiya 1/12 porsche fuel cells and engine "tins"...........Matt

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I use real fiberglass on my projects...my LHS carries different "scaled" cloths and mats intended for use on R/C flying planes....I cut templates; then use tamiya clears (yellow/green/orange) to make the brownish resin look; then wet out the cloth with the mix...looks pretty convincing when done....I use this method on all of my Tamiya 1/12 porsche fuel cells and engine "tins"...........Matt

Wow, great idea, I'll have to try that.

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Ed Roth's Outlaw (1:1 fullsize) was built using a hand laid fiberglass tub, so when I built the Revell model, I covered the inside of the body with 3/4 oz. fiberglass cloth(finest available at the LHS). Not right on scalewise, but it gets the point across.

IMG_4617b.jpg?psid=1

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You might check here under the Plastic header. Lots of other useful textures, such as wood. Supposedly free, but you have to register.

http://www.cgtextures.com/

PS: What kind of fiberglass do you want? The kind that comes in a finely woven roll, is handlaid with woven strips, or is chopped and shot?

Edited by sjordan2
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I made these decals back in 1990 for my OOB Tyrrell P34. The trick was mixing an ink that was translucent with a little iridescent and rein colored tint so it looked like the gel coat color was showing through. They were printed with a cloth-like pattern too.

DSC00139.jpg

DSC00140.jpg

I know I still have a couple sheets of them, somewhere...

Edited by Scale-Master
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I use used dryer sheets. They're free after you use them in the dryer. Here are a couple of pics of what I used them on.

Datsun truck hood.

DSC03618.jpg

The underside of this Studebaker hood.

DSC04081.jpg

This is how it looks on the car.

DSC04132.jpg

How I did it was I used Elmer's glue to glue the sheet to the plastic and let it dry. I've since primed the hood and it looks like fiber glass to me. Hope this will help ya. Dan

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A friend tipped me on his tecnique. He bought some material with a very fine weave at the fabric store, cut it into workable pieces and applied them with a tinted clear. The fine texture and the tinted clear gives that fiberglass look and it is to scale. I plan to do my Grand Sport body in this fasion.

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