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Resin Mustang Lx's a Comparison and Review thread.

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Having seen some of Toms other work, I now can say he did the best he could with the body, and I believe it shows. If he were to build one of these, I think he would amaze us FOX guys!

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Thanks guys. Much of the credit here does go to Tom. I can only cast as good as he can master. Besides the two he has done for me, he has done plenty of other rockin conversions. I had the pleasure of spending a day with him. He has done some really neat things and, has lots of works in progress that are amazing. He is also big into scratchbuilding buildings, which he has also done some fine work with.

Agent G, Ford starting offering the police package on the Mustang in 82. Which would make ours correct for an 82 police car being that this body style ran from 79 until 82. Just a thought.

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Agent G, Ford starting offering the police package on the Mustang in 82. Which would make ours correct for an 82 police car being that this body style ran from 79 until 82. Just a thought.

Drool drool drool

I forgot about that. :lol:

G

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And... with a few tweaks here and there (how easy or hard these tweaks will be rests entirely on your basic scratchbuilding skills), the MAD body could be updated to an '83 - '86 model year. I think the first one I build will be of the white '84 Notch with a swapped-in late '70's 302 engine that I should have bought back in high school.

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Chuck,

if you are really wanting to do that, your best bet is to get the 83GT that MPC kitted and kitbash it with MADs Coupe. Use the basic body from the 83GT and graft the roof/trunk section of the MAD kit in. The entire nose is different between 1979-82 and 83-86. The cowl vent width changed (got wider on the 83-86), the hood got the corresponding wider 'cowl' look to it, plus got an overhang for the grill (which the 79-82s didn't have). IF you are doing a late 84, the front fender extensions are different, same with the lower nose.

Honestly Chuck, just take the entire 83GT kit forward of the doors/windshield glass trim and graft it to the MAD Coupe. Then, play with the lower nose to better mimic your particular year. Also of note, ALL of the MPC kits that I have still have the 1979-specific inner door panels regardless of the year they are trying to represent (I will either confirm or dispell this thought of mine when I get home this morning and dig through my MPCs. The later AMT/MPC 87+ GT got revised inner door panels.

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OK, I just talked to Ed Sexton at Revell, and they ARE doing the all-new tool 1/25th 1990-93 Mustang Coupe as a 2-n-1 (stock and drag). They are quite far into the kit development stages, but he didn't say how far or when it will be revealed to the public! This is extremely exciting news (for me anyway); and I hope to know more after Toledo NNL (if he is coming to the show).

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Yeah, the cowl and fenders are the 'might be tough depending on skill' part of the deal.For me though, lack of a decent '83 kit might still make reworking the MAD body a viable option, and it sounds like just a bit more fun to do it that way. B)

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OK, I just talked to Ed Sexton at Revell, and they ARE doing the all-new tool 1/25th 1990-93 Mustang Coupe as a 2-n-1 (stock and drag). They are quite far into the kit development stages

That'll make my year model wise, I've had 2 of my own, and I'd love to make ALL the state police/highway patrol agencies that ran em...

Jeff

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OK, I just talked to Ed Sexton at Revell, and they ARE doing the all-new tool 1/25th 1990-93 Mustang Coupe as a 2-n-1 (stock and drag). They are quite far into the kit development stages

That'll make my year model wise, I've had 2 of my own, and I'd love to make ALL the state police/highway patrol agencies that ran em...

Jeff

Interesting...I wonder if will be formally announced at the iHobby Expo this month... I could definitely see building 2-3 of those.

Edited by Rob Hall

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Rob, I don't know for sure. I can tell you it is running slightly behind where Ed wanted it to be development-wise. I will talk to him next week-end (Toledo NNL) and see about where they are at with it.

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Anyone have pics and measurements of the underside of an LX Mustang Bumper cover? I need some help with this area ...

104_3015.jpg

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Jason, it will be quite some time before I can get back to the salvage yard, but I know he as 7-10 LXs in various stages of death sitting in the yard. i'll have to see about getting there before the weather turns sour.

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I have a Mustang bumper cover, off the car, but it's a few years too old (I think it's off an '83). It's ripped and cracked to beat the band, and now that I think of it, I wonder why I still have the thing up in the rafters in the first place... :huh:

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I did a little more work to "Correct" the "Correct-ed" AAM/ AF/X body...

corrected the misshapen trunk and tried to add some roundness to the flat roof..

Before:

100_2699.jpg

100_2704.jpg

After:

104_3064.jpg

104_3066.jpg

104_3063.jpg

Still needs a coat of primer but I think it's coming along.

So far I've redone the side trim, made new front and rear bumpers, added the newer engine compartment,

added new door handles, and now I've tried to address the trunk, and roof issues.

The door window trim is still a wreck, but I may just leave that alone. (for now.)

(Can anyone guess what the roof was from originally?)

Edited by Abell82

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Looks a lot better than what you started with Jason. I am using a Hatchback roof reshaped for my T-Top Coupe conversion.

Talked to Ed yesterday at the Toledo NNL; the kit of the 1991-93 Coupe is AT LEAST 1 year away. It is based on a True Street/Hot Street/10.5 tire car and will have at least the cowl hood, Nitrous and aftermarket intake set-up, and a complete tubular front suspension in addition to the factory stock stuff. Ed also wanted me to understand that while it is in development and test shots are coming, it will not be debuted at IHobby and that it will be able to be believed it is coming when it hits the shelves. He did not want to promise it, as even he said sometimes uncontrollable forces get kits cancelled. He does, however, feel that this one WILL make it to the shelves, as people (namely me) have been buried so far up his tail-end for this that he references the enthusiasm back to the Revell higher-ups.

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Like I've said- when it comes to Revell new releases, I believe it when I see it... <_<

On the other hand, the kit itself sounds promising. I was thinking it would be more of a factory-stock kit, but it appears it will have quite a few other interesting goodies beyond just the notch body.

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Like I've said- when it comes to Revell new releases, I believe it when I see it... <_<

Maybe it will be out by the time Revell kits a 2012 Mustang...in 2014.. :)

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Well, they did have the 2006 GT kit out in late 2005. But it's all been downhill from there. :lol:

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I shot some primer on the "corrected" AAM AF/X body todayhere are some comparison shots...

Before:

100_2699.jpg

103_0642.jpg

After:

100_3071.jpg

100_3073.jpg

It's not a drastic change, and unfortunately the pics down play how much better it really does look.

I was limited by the shape of the original roof, and afraid if I went to drastic, I would snap the roof in half.

I suppose any improvement is a good improvement...

Edited by Abell82

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Side note:

For those watching or reading the thread that prefer the Hatchback body style AF/X resin cast an LX, it had the AAM/AF/X nose grafted to it.

Basically it was a 1993 Cobra body with the Side skirts sanded down, and the rear bumper re-shaped. The rear bumper lacked all detail, and the side panels were not trimmed (read shortened).

The body did not come with a set of mirrors, interior, or an LX rear spoiler (though it was supposed to include an LX style spoiler, the 2 that this writer bought both included a Saleen style spoiler.) The bodies while not a bad idea or casting, (both of the bodies purchased had COMPLETE engine bays) are not really useful if trying to attempt a stock LX, as the parts not included made the purchase of a 1993 Cobra kit mandatory, and with minor sanding the kit's body could be made to look exactly the same. They therefore provide NO real benefit, unless making a drag car with no mirrors?

These bodys looked so bad, with the shorter AAM/AF/X front bumper, that I do not think I took a picture of a stock one. But here is one with a Reliable Resin front bumper cover on it..

100_3090.jpg

100_3093.jpg

100_3077.jpg

100_3091.jpg

The front bumper that they come with:

104_3049.jpg

Edited by Abell82

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With the AAM /AF/X body pretty near corrected I have turned my attention to the Reliable body....

Here is the front bumper once again, notice the overhang, of the belt trim versus bottom of bumper...

104_3048.jpg

100_3121.jpg

To correct this, I cut the entire lower portion of the bumper off, I then moved it forward and reattached it...

100_3119.jpg

This left quite a gap on the sides that will need filled...

100_3118.jpg

More later ...

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Looks like what I was doing with the GT/SVO hybrid I started, Jason. Then I realized, I suck and don't have the skill to finish it (ok, in all seriousness I am working on a 1987-93 Saleen bumper instead of finishing this venture). I have also modified the SVO bumper to better fit the kit/be more in-scale width-wise.

You do good work and subject material for the FOX, Jason. Keep at it! You more than make up for my slack.

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Looks like what I was doing with the GT/SVO hybrid I started, Jason. Then I realized, I suck and don't have the skill to finish it (ok, in all seriousness I am working on a 1987-93 Saleen bumper instead of finishing this venture). I have also modified the SVO bumper to better fit the kit/be more in-scale width-wise.

Thanks, for the compliment though much appreciated.

I like many of your projects as well, I believe you are too hard on yourself you do very good work.

(Edit : Do you have pics of the SVO/GT hybrid?

Anyhow... I sat down and I looked at what I was doing. ...And I realized that something was wrong. When I cut the bottom portion from the bumper, I took off too much material.

So actually material needed to be added back to the top portion of the part that had been removed, and the back, in order to keep the proportions right.

Here's what I mean...

100_3132.jpg

100_3136.jpg

This should get you into thew ballpark of where you want to be.

The bumper will still not be correct, but it should look closer, then before.... well maybe...kind of sort of....

Edited by Abell82

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So ah,um.... Anyone want to know how to more "Correctly" fix a Reliable Resin front bumper?

O.k. so if you've read this far you know that there is something a little off with the RR front bumper,

I've shown you a quick fix, to get you into the ball park, but what if that's not good enough?

If you're happy with what you have then there is no need to continue... (It's going to get messy!)

If there is still something not quite right, and it's bothering you, continue reading ...

So we know by now that Reliable Resins front bumper is not "Correct" but how "Incorrect" is it?

Let's find out!

(I bet by the time we're done, you'll smack your head and say "NOW I see it!")

So...

O.k. So you have your Reliable Resin Front bumper, maybe you've moved the lower portion forward, maybe you have not ...

104_3048.jpg

Well the first step is still to cut the entire lower portion off and move it forward...

(here I used the back of a #11 Xacto blade, this left me with a 3mm "band" for the front bumper I did not add styrene to this, even though it shortened the bumper about 1 mm..)

here is a pic of the bumper ca glued back together...

*(interesting to note that it also appears to be biting it's lower lip? Though maybe it's just pouting...)

104_3146.jpg

Pretty standard so far right? Well, here is where things get messy...

I hinted to this earlier by posting a pic, I was sure would get at least one question, but no one noticed, (or maybe no one cared?!)

In any event...

The black line is where the second cut will need to be made.... This is NOT for the squeemish, or those that are not comfortable with thier modeling abilities.

If you are not comfortable, just do the first procedure, and leave it at that. If you are sure of your abilities please continue....

(When cutting this second cut please leave a little material so that you can tell where things go back to...)

104_3149.jpg

Are you still with me? O.K. then the second cut('s) are made you should have something like this...

Again be sure that you leave a little material so that you can tell where things go back together...

104_3152.jpg

Here you can see I outlined there ares in question with black permanent marker.

This IS IMPORTANT!!

You need to do this now as well...

104_3156.jpg

(continued...)

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