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Best way to fill in the scribed lines on the undersides of hoods?

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Posted · Report post

I prefer to build the majority of my models in a mostly replica stock manner, so when I come across a kit with scribing cut into the underside of the hood for the use of a tunnel ram or blower setup, I want to find a way to "restore" the factory stock look to the hood, including the cross-bracing etc.

Here are some solutions I've heard about but haven't tried yet. My follow-up questions are in blue.

1) Fill the gaps with Evergreen/Plastruct strips and Tenax/Pro-Weld. Obviously feasible, but will the melting properties of the glue seep through the thin surfaces of the scribed areas and mar the top surface of the hood?

2) Fill the gaps with Milliput (white). I've been told this stuff doesn't shrink & dries incredibly hard. If I use a glue like Tenax, will the thin strips of Evergreen cross-bracing strips adhere to it?

3) Fill the gaps with Tamiya putty (white). Never used this stuff before either, but heard lots of good things. If I use a glue like Tenax, will the thin strips of Evergreen cross-bracing strips adhere to it?

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Posted · Report post

As far as #1, it is possible- that's happened to me trying that method to fill in the scribes. I like to use Bondo 2-part putty for this. Once the area is primed, I apply the putty to the area and sand it smooth. If the area has a 'textured' look to replicate insulation, I spray it with textured paint to restore the appearance after the scribe lines are filled and sanded smooth.

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Posted · Report post

Monty, try gluing your styrene in with gap-filling CA...won't "melt" the styrene, help fill the gaps, and give you a great base on which to do your final bodywork/filler.

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Posted · Report post

Monty, try gluing your styrene in with gap-filling CA...won't "melt" the styrene, help fill the gaps, and give you a great base on which to do your final bodywork/filler.

I second this one! Back in my resin-casting days, I dealt with a few hoods having those "cutout grooves" on the bottom side. I quickly tried gap-filling CA, and it worked PERFECTLY to stabilize the upper surface so that "ghosting" didn't happen, and of course, with cleanup on the bottom side, and a bit of detail work--VOILA!

Art

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Posted · Report post

Congrats on the replica stock building style, I favor this style as well.

I turn the hood over, run a bead of super glue in the groove(s), sprinkle baby powder over the whole thing, lightly tap the hood several times (to help the powder penetrate the surface of the glue bead), wait a few seconds, turn the hood over to let excess powder fall off, blow off the remaining film, walk away for about a half hour, return and finish sand the spot.

I like to build 70s cars, and they were really into those scribed lines then.

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