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Scribing Panel Lines & Opening Doors


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Best way to hold the thread is to use a Flex-I-File u-shaped handle. Thin carpet thread is best to use, regular sewing thread stretches and breaks too easily.

I have used this method for a couple of small projects and a friend has used it to cutout doors etc with good results.

flexifile1.jpg

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I tried thread before and just never had any success. Many years ago, I was in Japan and ran into Hasagawa/Tritool photo etched saws and fell in love with them. You can literally cut a door out and re-glue it, the kerf is so small. In the right hands they can be very accurate a pleasure to use. They come in a variety of sizes and shapes so you can get in many places that other methods just won't get to. Mine have lasted at least 10 years, so I can recommend them very highly. Here is the link to HLJ but you can get them in other places as well. Any hobby shop that is well stocked should carry them. http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-4

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DYMO-TAPE AND A # 11 BLADE WORKS BEST FOR ME.

I BUY THE BLACK IN ROLLS OF THREE AT OFFICE MAX.

Either for pre-scribed lines to open doors. or to just scribe a new line for doors trunks, etc

You can even do rounded corners as the TRIMMED DYMO-TAPE acts as a guide.

I use it two layers thick, to ensure no "SLIPPAGE" :D .

HAS A GREAT STICKY BACKING.

SIMPLE, AND ALWAYS WORKS.

Dymo-Tape, how do you use it and where do you get it?

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This has been an interesting thread and I did eventually get somewhat of an idea how doors are cut with thread. As I continued going through old issues of MCM I came on one article where Gregg had photos of him thread-cutting a door. No Obsessive knees were harmed in the thread ... he had the body clamped to the desk! :lol:

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Scale Motorsport just sent their new "Tool Kit" which also has the super thin saw blades that Pete mentioned.

I like the blades, but I'm partial to the thread.

I can cut a door open in less than five minutes, and it is perfect.

It does take practice, but I love it.

Especially around the corners.

The clamps I used were from Micro-Mark, and they are great.

An extra pair of hands also works well, if you have them around, and can explain the precarious aspect of this technique...

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Harry....that's what your feet are for :rolleyes: .

I don't do much in 1/25th but this is what I use for my stuff & some of the blades are downright tiny. Being it comes with 144 blades (24 each of 6 different sizes) it's a lot of bang for the buck. BTW...ModelExpo is right here in Florida and I've done biz with them for years...great people and servirce.

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=JS162TC

Edited by GrandpaMcGurk
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I use photoetch saw blades by Model Car Garage. I don't cut doors open all the time, but I have done it several times and I can tell you that the blade is the exact width of the seams , so it's just right. You don't really have much shaping or sanding to do when it's over either. Not only that, you have a much smaller chance of slipping out of the groove like a #11 does and slicing through your other panels. On top of that, the saw blades don't get dull and don't snap off at the tip like an xacto blade does.

These blades are flexible and durable, if you bend a blade it easily bends back into shape and is ready to go again! These fit into the xacto handles like a blade does. They are just as thin as most of the photoetch parts you may already have....so take a look at them for thickness and see what I mean.

photoetchsawbladesvi-vi.jpg

this took me about 30minutes including the interior tub.

100_1357-vi.jpg

100_1353-vi.jpg

100_1351-vi.jpg

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I'm going to guess that second one from the right just underneath the lettering is what you use for the curves? Look's like a curvy-type of tool.

yep! The nice thing is you can use the tip of the blade too. The tip has teeth as well and can be used to go around corners either square or rounded.

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  • 9 months later...

I would like to open up the tool compartment doors on an old petty race hauler i've been holding onto for all these years. the car carrier portion is built, but i would like to open the large doors under the tire carrier area and also the side doors down by the wheel area. what is the best/more realistic thing to use or build? I'm going to stretch out the Lindberg L-700 kit to place this on. I sure miss the days of open trailers and car haulers, I was heading home a few fridays ago and saw a friend pulling his dirt modified to the local track, just his pick up pulling an open trailer, I gawked like a 10 yr old till the light turned. Thanks for such a great forum Gregg!

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I believe this is what you want....

dads2011.jpg

The hinge point is about 1/16-3/32 from the edge..basically I drilled a hole in the top and bottom of the door for a piece of 3/64 brass rod to extend from the holes about 3/32. on the top, I drilled a hole straight up into the body about 1/8th.

on the bottom, I cut a notch 3/16 wide, x 1/16 deep, starting at the edge of the door opening. I used a piece of plastic stripping to fill this hole.

I drilled a hole in the stripping to fit over the brass rod, then slid the upper pin in the upper hole, with the piece of stripping in place on the lower pin. this lower plug was then glued into place, and puttied over..

After you have cut your door out.. eyeball your hinge point carefully, so that when the pins are in place, the doors swing with out touching the opening... also.. before drilling holes, make sure the pins align, or the doors won't swing straight. drill the holes in the door edge first,install your pins, hold this up to the opening, to locate the top hole..

Hope this helps,

Jim A.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys,Jim that is exactly what i'm hopin to get mine to look like.

my Uncle used to use a hauler very simular in the midwest to haul his stocker to the local tracks and a couple of road trips also. I sure miss seeing those beast running down the road , car straped down and being able to see it. thanks diymirage and Jim for your help. Rick

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  • 2 years later...

I personally use a bare metal foil scribing tool to scribe my door s and trunk lines. Or to even open those areas. It works great and I have had this tool for years. Not sire if they even make them anymore. I will try and post a pick of it. I have also used the back of an xacto blade bit i fint that the bare metal foing scriber works the best.

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