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Enamels WIN!


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All right, chaps. You know I've been using HOK and AUTO AIR COLORS for quite some time, then I clear coat with DuPont Acrylic Clear (right out of the can) and for years I've gotten consistent good to excellent results.

Well, you know the story, I got Donn Yost's videos and he got me hooked on using Testor's enamels thinned with cheap (cold) lacquer thinner and today I had an epiphany when I went to sand and buff two of the four 32 Ford bodies I painted before THANKSGIVING.

I went to the kitchen sink (where I get the best light) and I thoroughly inspected the bodies and I could not believe my eyes. For the first time in a long time, I did not need--I repeat, DID NOT NEED--to do anything to the body.

The paint looked in scale and mirror smooth. Amazing shine.

Needless to say, I am very pleased and will continue to paint using this system.

Again, thank you DONN YOST!

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That's what I've been trying to say, the thing works beautifully.

Glad to hear you've found another paint medium you like.

Couple questions for you (or Donn)

1) Can you shoot this combo over bare plastic without crazing?

2) If not, what primer do you recommend?

3) Is there still a need to use a dehydrator, or will the paint dry quickly enough without it?

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I have to confess, Donn is braver than I am. He uses metallizer paint as a primer. I tried one of the 32s and it works just fine. But I use Plastikote out of habit just to be sure.

I have a dehydrator but I've learned to be patient and wait the 3 days it takes for the paint to totally gas out.

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I have been using this combo for over 40 years...

Shooting on raw plastic rarely presents a problem, but recently some of the plastics from China have caused some minor crazing issues.

Tamiya Fine Primer works great as a barrier.

I don't use a dehydrator, but I do wait a week or sometimes more before working the paint job.

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Painting with Testors Enamels is a black art. :blink:

You'd think that it is by the way a lot of folks react to the word , Pat !

It's all in knowing how to use them , people have a tendency to complicate situations needlessly !

I learned the laquer trick off a guy I worked with right out of high school . He was a master sergeant in charge of the Europeon Theater's largest motor pool . I learned quite a bit off of him over the years !

Virgil , you are more than welcome ! It's great to see you carry on like a little kid at Chrismas again ! Lmao !

When using standard colors , I shoot directly onto the bare plastic . As long as you are using cheap laquer thinner , there will be no problems ! I do use the metallizer under my metallic and pearl colors to produce a reflection that comes back through to heighten the color and clarity .

Remember ! Enamels are the devil's tool .... But only if you allow them to be ! A win , win , situation straight out of the bottle ! It's all in learning how to use the them ! Old dogs , new tricks , right , Virg ?

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I agree about the enamels. I do things a little differently. I use Testor's enamel and Testor's airbrush thinner to thin the paint. (I have to try the lacquer thinner -- next car project)

I don't usually have to sand between coats. The paint comes out nice and smooth. This is a byproduct of the slow drying time. I let it dry for at least 36 hours, but can speed that process if I use a "bake box". This is a cardboard box with a low wattage light inside. Works like a dehydrator, without the expense. (What can I say? I'm cheap) I love the resulting finish, and it seems to look good even without clear.

I've also done rapid recoating. I wait 15-20 minutes for the paint to skin over, then spray another very thin coat. Keep going until the paint has the depth you need. Put item(s) in bake box to dry.

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What Donn said, 2 to 1. Sometimes I confess I add a little extra if it still looks a little thick. Most of the time it works like magic.

The other thing I will say is to keep your airbrushes super clean and ready.

Which is why I bathe them between paint jobs in my sonic cleaning machine.

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I guess rust never does sleep , eh , Virgil ! Lol !

If you take notes and follow the method to the letter , it will become second nature . Consistent paint work will follow time and time again !

Greg ,

I only use the clear on the metallics and pearls , the standard colors polish out to a beautiful gloss all on their own . Can you use it ? , sure , I just don't find a need for it . The single most important thing aside from controlling the paint environment is following the prep procedures to the letter ! The steps that are laid out in the DVD are the guide lines that I follow each and every time I airbrush a body .

Virgil , a bit more thinner with the old standard Testor bottles ( 1/4 oz ) is a good thing , they are a bit thicker . By doing so with the 1/2 oz jars , you might have to add a few more mist coats to get the coverage and sheen that you are looking for .

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I have to confess, I haven't been an enamels adict, but, recently, I did a try for the first time ever to a Scalefinishes acrylic enamel gloss black, and it was real impressive the way it turned out. I don't have any lacquer painted model that has turned out like this one. I post it as soon as I finish it this weekend.

Simón P. Rivera Torres

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I have been using this combo for over 40 years...

Shooting on raw plastic rarely presents a problem, but recently some of the plastics from China have caused some minor crazing issues.

Tamiya Fine Primer works great as a barrier.

I don't use a dehydrator, but I do wait a week or sometimes more before working the paint job.

I thought you were 35?

hhhmmmm.....

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