RickRollerLT1 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 Hey Guys. Incase yer out of tamiya paint and can't find it, or want to try something thats just as good or better and cheaper. LOOK HERE! This is the folowing paints I use Sears "quick 'n easy" primer (costs $1.69 at Sears Hardware or K-Mart) is awsome stuff. It is the best primer I have EVER used!!! Sprays on even and somewhat thick, but drys smooth and dosen't craze the plastic! For the base colors, I use the 99. Wal-Mart/Color Place paints and the Krylon spray paints sold there too for the desired color. Sometimes I use Valspar and/or Rustoluem paints. For sliver painted parts and sometimes bodycolors, I use Dutch Boy ($2.79 at Sears Hardware) and Rustoluem sprays. For the metalic/specal colors, I use hobby paints such as Tamiya, Testors one coat Lacquer (which can range from $4.99-$6.99), Rustolouem, and/or automotive paints (which are around the same price range or less). Instead of using testors or tamiya base primers/base color paints, which are extremely pricey for a base primer/paint (Yeah, saw that topic. Made me feel like not the only one going with cheaper alternitives). I use the big cheap sprays (from wal-mart, Sears, and/or anybody that has those type of paints cheap) for the base primer/color coat, then (if I want) the hobby paints for the metalic/specal colors. For polishing, I use good ol solid white toothpaste (don't get the transparent sparkle stuff) and a rag to polish the painted body/part to be futured. For a clear coat, I use Future Floor Wax (also know as Pledge Floor Wax with Future Shine). Real easy to apply with foam brushes or q-tips and if you mess up, I heard you can strip it with windex. For applying brush painted parts, sometimes q-tips work or buying a cheap brush set from michaels, trimming them and being done with them or clean them. While the Testors sprays are no good (cept the Lacquers) and being Tamiya bottle paints run from $5.50+, the Testors small bottles (and the model masters) are still good for what they are if you can get them for 50%off. Incase your paintjob goes in the other direction, you can use Purple Power as it's the safest of the bunch and very effective on most paints (wear gloves anda mask though). Hope this helps. Be well all V, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted December 15, 2011 Share Posted December 15, 2011 I use wally world color palace flat black, and I am using the primer on chassis's, I like using duplicolor primers on the bodys still. I am trying to get away from using krylon, but will for cretin colors or if making it to one the hobby stores isnt going to happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmvw guy Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Thanks for the tips guys, I love this kind of information and most of it I already do. Haven't tried the cheap primer yet, I'll have to pick up a can. I still use Dupli-Color when it's on sale but, $1.69 SOUNDS GOOD. Last time I picked up a can of Tamiya at Hobby Town it was over $7.00 ( no price tag), The guy at the counter said, "If you have to ask, " bla bla bla. Wally World is starting to look better. I use Colgate toothpaste with good results for polish. Has anyone tried spraying Future with the airbrush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickRollerLT1 Posted December 17, 2011 Author Share Posted December 17, 2011 Last time I picked up a can of Tamiya at Hobby Town it was over $7.00 ( no price tag), The guy at the counter said, "If you have to ask, " bla bla bla. My LHS is around $6.50 for the colors and $8.00 for the primer. Some other LHS's around me charge between $9-17 for the colors and primers! Due to the issues getting them, and their distrubitors raiseing the prices because import fees went up and such BS. I get Tamiyas colors ocasionaly, but I have tried their primer once and it's pretty good. But not that great for $9.75, and then the amount you get?! I get identical results from the Sears Primer and could obtain 10 cans of it for about $15, and have them last a couple months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Creative Explorer Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Even though I would like to save some bucks, I do have learned not to be cheap when it comes to paint. IMHO the prices of the expensive kinds are worth it, it sprays better, smoother, thinner. It glosses better, is harder and longer lasting result. What I use? Alclad Primer or ASA acryllic primer Zero Paints or Auto-Air Acryllics Zero 2K gloss clear coat. Even though the paints are expensive, they have the tendency to last longer, I guess I spend in totall around 10 dollars per car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Has anyone tried spraying Future with the airbrush? Yes, but you have to be careful. It's really thin, almost like spraying water, so it's easy to spray too much. But it does work: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhs856 Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 After reading the post about using Testor's enamels in a airbrush, I think I found my balance between quality and cheap. The gist is to mix it 2:1 with cheap lacquer thinner and spray it at 30-35 psi right on the styrene. I can paint a car body for under $3 and have it set up like glass with little to no sanding. The only pricey piece is an airbrush setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmvw guy Posted December 17, 2011 Share Posted December 17, 2011 Thanks Harry your results speak volumes. Nice pictures and nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMc Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Even though I would like to save some bucks, I do have learned not to be cheap when it comes to paint. IMHO the prices of the expensive kinds are worth it, it sprays better, smoother, thinner. It glosses better, is harder and longer lasting result. What I use? Alclad Primer or ASA acryllic primer Zero Paints or Auto-Air Acryllics Zero 2K gloss clear coat. Even though the paints are expensive, they have the tendency to last longer, I guess I spend in totall around 10 dollars per car. I'm curious about your luck with auto air....between pressure and the slow flash time ..(hair dryer included) whats your trick?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Creative Explorer Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 No trick really, I use around 25psi and have no problems with tipdry. I do thin them a tiny bit more with Vallejo acryllic thinner, but other than that, straight out of the jar. Usually, I let the model sit for a few minutes while I am cleaning my airbrush and the model is by then dry to dust. It's enough hardened after a half an hour or so to handle it, but since it is acryllic, be carefull with liquids. When decalling, i shoot always a clearcoat first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 I have seen zero paints being used on a UK forum, and they are very nice paints, and I have thought about using the 2k clear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Creative Explorer Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 They are very nice, but very dangerous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 They are very nice, but very dangerous Thats what is kind of stopping me from trying the 2k clear, I would try the zero paints, but one , I dont have an airbrush yet, and two it would cost way to much get it in the states Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Creative Explorer Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Well, you do need a airbrush ofcourse, but with a decent vented paintbooth that vents out of the house, you should be fine. And the costs are a bit higher yes, but the jars give you at least 10 cars to paint. So, in all it ain't that bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dig Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 cool tips! I've heard of 2k clear but was kinda thrown by the shipping costs. Now that I know it's enough for 10 cars or so, it doesn't seem that bad. I've just gotten confident with laying base & colors, now I'm in search of a clearing method. I like the idea of polyurethanes. Are there any others worth trying & available stateside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
envious8420 Posted December 25, 2011 Share Posted December 25, 2011 You can get 2 part 2k clear at most auto parts/ paint supplier shops. autozone has the duplicolor Paint Shop brand 2k clear also. Nason, Dupont, PPG. they are all decent. try for the off brand really its the same stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW Dave Posted December 26, 2011 Share Posted December 26, 2011 Sears "quick 'n easy" primer (costs $1.69 at Sears Hardware or K-Mart) is awsome stuff. It is the best primer I have EVER used!!! Sprays on even and somewhat thick, but drys smooth and dosen't craze the plastic! Is it lacquer or enamel? Easy to apply and not crazing the plastic is one thing, but I'd worry about comaptibility with whatever top coats are going over it. Lately, I've been buying Krylon or ColorPlace flat black instead of Testors; I use a lot of it, and those little cans can get spendy in comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickRollerLT1 Posted December 27, 2011 Author Share Posted December 27, 2011 Is it lacquer or enamel? Easy to apply and not crazing the plastic is one thing, but I'd worry about comaptibility with whatever top coats are going over it. . As i'm looking at a can I got in my hand now, it says it's enamel. This may seem strange, but i've applied Krylon (which is acrylic) and Lacquers (such as Testors) over the colorplace paint ontop of the applied coat of sears primer. and had absolutly no major crazing or comaptibility issues whatsoever! But when it's krylon or testors primer on the body, then the color coat in it's brand or a different name, regardless of paint type.... all everlasting hell will come loose and ruin everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robdot Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 you guys who say you use kyrolon. is it the fusion stuff? or the stuff marked indoor/outdoor ? i see a krylon primer marked indoor/outdoor. have you ever put fusion over it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 The problem with the Fusion ... Once it goes on , it most assuredly does not want to come back off in the case a screw up ! You can write the body off as a failed experiment ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robdot Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 how about the other stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoneWolf15 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 how about the other stuff? Indoor / outdoor ? Same result ! Almost impossible to remove ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 I have no problems removing kyrlon indoor/outdoor paint, as long as it hasnt been clear coated yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robdot Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 im not really worried about removing it, ) just wanted to know if it works, and does the indoor/outdoor primer work? thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RickRollerLT1 Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 The primer might work, but will most likely craze the plastic and make it alomst impossible to remove. If the fusion paint was applied on the primer coat, you could still save it but it's gonna take some time for the stripper fliud your using t kick in. If it's applied DIRECTLY to the bpdy without a primer, yer screwed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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