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Cheap ways to save on paint/polshing

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I tried the cheap primer "Fresh & Easy" @ $1.59 from Big K and applied black Dupli-Color acrylic enamel over it. I'm happy with the results! For clear I will use Testors Glosscoat over just about anything. I'm surprised about how it will go over lacquers and enamels. I don't no what kind of formula they use at Testors but, it is totally amazing. The Krylon paint I use is labeled Indoor/Outdoor which has worked good also except that it seems a little thin. I have to apply a lot of thin coats with adequate time to dry between coats I have found. I will try just about anything when it comes to paint to save a buck. After all it's just plastic we are painting and most of the time you can start over. I have even blasted the paint off using aluminum oxide ending with the plastic unharmed . Now to try spraying "Future Shine".

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I tried the cheap primer "Fresh & Easy" @ $1.59 from Big K and applied black Dupli-Color acrylic enamel over it. I'm happy with the results!

Glad ya like it! I almost never had a problem with this stuff, aside from using it on an AMT '70 Monte Carlo kit with REALLY thin plastic that almost would never stop crazing! Incase tamiya primer cant be found and/or testors dosen't do the job, this stuff is an excellent alternitive primer that you can easily stock up on without hurting the wallet badly!

I've applied krylon and testors one coat lacquer over the primer (and the colorplace color over the primer coat), and had no compadibility issues. However, the weird thing is if your using another enamal-based primer ON THE BARE BODY, like say Valspar or Rustoluem, and the color you applied over the primer coat is lacquer-based (EG Tamiya, testors lacquers). The entire surface will form "moulten round patch craters" due to the lacquer being too hot for the enamal base, and ruin the entire paint job (quite possibly damageing the plastic underneath and preventing it from being stripped). Though from my lucky experience, the Quick 'n Easy primer is enamal-based, but surpirsingly it will handle all types of paint fourmulas withouy any surface ill-effects or crazing.

I remember one time I used rustoluem automotive primer on a test body and it didn't craze the body, but the surface was very wrinkly. I thank someone mentioned they had that problem too with that primer a while back (think it was Turbokitty who posted it),

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If the paint crazes too much you can always do a rust bucket. It"s all about having fun for me without breaking the wallet. ( Although I never carry one.) lol

Ya' know what I find works. If you want to make a car with different colored primered parts, use the sears primer for the first coat, then for other parts of the body (EG doors, hood, fenders etc.) use the different brand primer in the color/brand of your choice.

Since the paint will have a primered serface to adhere to without attacking the plastic.

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