W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) This is started some time ago, and I'm posting older progress first. Started from Revell's Special Edition kit, which is really great quality kit. Engine is painted red with all stock parts, because these can't be changed in Stock Eliminator, of course. In these pictures, body is already primered, but it needs new coat of primer. Chassis is painted black with spray can. I sanded slicks to look used, but after this picture, I've sanded them bit more. Rear axle is also assembled: Edited April 18, 2012 by W-409 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 Then I glued that rear axle on the chassis. I used those raiser plates from the kit, because that's one modification what's allowed in Stock Eliminator. They are painted gloss black. And then building the engine bit more. Plug wires were installed and headers too. Added some heat marks with Revell and Humbroll clear blue and clear orange, not my best ones, but I think I'll live with them. I also added fuel line from carburetor to fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Awesome, I will be watching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 More.... Then I installed the front axle system, it's painted simple, and if I remember correctly, there were no big fit issues. Assembled wheels and tires together too. Rear tires are from the kit, and wheels too. Front tires are from my parts box, but I think, those can be found from AMT '66 Nova Pro Street. I installed Hoosier Decals, and those white marks too for the rear wheels. And then I glued wheels and tires on their place. No problems found, and it's sitting of four wheels, not three. I think, there's good stance and the overall look is just great to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyrone Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Looking good Niko, I like the engine details, keep it coming... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 More.... Added header flanges too. They are photoetch, can't remember the manufacturer now anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperStockAndy Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Looking great, and yes the front tires are from the '66 Nova Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) Nice header flange Niko! I like the stance as well... if anything it looks like the rear end needs to be moved back just a smidge. Rear Tire is to close to the front of that rear wheel opening. Remember the slicks would expand some, and they would be slamming up against that rear quarter panel like crazy. In this class are you allowed to open up the fender wells? Edited December 23, 2011 by eviltwincustoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 Time to build some interior. Stock Eliminator rules say, that car must have full interior, backseats etc. BUT if there's roll cage or roll bar, back seat can be taken off. And that's what I did, but rules say, there must be carpet on backseats place, and Nova interior had not carpet under the backseat, I had to make carpet from paper. After I installed it, I painted it flat black. Seats and door panels were painted semigloss black, but door panels need some detailing before they are ready for assembly. Assembled the seats and roll bar next. After that I got great information, that I must add some tubing for the roll cage, but more about that coming bit later. Seat belts are made from Scale Dreams' stuff and those buckles are photo etch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 And then I primered the body with gray primer this time, and since it was looking good, I painted some red straight from a spray can. But it needs to be wetsanded and painted again, because there are some mistakes on the paint. Hopefully I can paint it again soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 Todays progress... I test fitted those door panels and dashboard together, and then I started building 6 point roll cage. Those tubes are evergreen plastic, I heated it on right shape after making "template" from solder. Luckily I managed to get both look right on first try. Then I took seats, seatbelts and door panels with that dash away, and cut that cross bar away from original roll bar. I built new one from evergreen, but it's mounted as NHRA rule book says, so seat belts can be installed to it. After painting those silver, I glued seats back and modified those seat belts to match rules. Here are those scratchbuilt parts before paint and assembly: New cross bar. Parts glued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 That's it for now, more when I get back on the bench again. That's tomorrow, but don't know, if I can get anything to update. Andy: Thanks! I had those on my '66 Nova, but I got it as glue bomb, so I'm not sure about if they were originally in that kit. Tyrone: Thanks man! Detailing is one of my favorite things in model building, and it makes builds look good. There will be some more details added when I get back on the engine. Bart: Opening rear fender wells is not allowed, I think and that's why rear end can be raised. Moving rear end bit back would be a good idea, needs to look if it's possible anymore. I think, those are Ok like that too, but now when you said about that, I can see it too. They need to be moved a bit. Thanks for the suggestion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stulee11 Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 that is definately one wicked nova ... i hope mine turns out nearly as good as yours .... thanks for posting mate . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 Thanks Stuart! I'm sure, your Nova will look as good as mine, so great start you have there. I just love these Stockers, must start '70 Ford Torino E/Stocker soon. I like these best without special paint schemes or anything like that. Original type of color and maybe some sponsor decals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Pugh Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Oh yeah!! I'm digging on this one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Niko, I like the update with the roll bar and removing the diagonal bar. Before it didn't look right and now it is spot on, as a 1:1 for mounting up the shoulder harness. Keep the updates coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 (edited) Nice progress there Niko...doing good! May I give you a small tip. On your rear slicks, look at the "Hoosier" decals...see how they are "silvered"? By that I mean that translucent stuff you can see in between the letters? This is caused by air being trapped in between the decal and the tire. And this happened because you applied the decal onto the sanded surface. Decals MUST be applied onto a glossy surface or you will get this "silvering." You can eliminate the silvering a number of ways but the way I like best is to dip the sidewall in a shallow tray of Future Acrylic Floor Finish. Let it dry overnight and then apply your decals and use a setting solution like Microscale Super Sol. This will make the decal snuggle right down nice and tight with no silvering. On the off chance you do get some silvering you can get rid of it by applying a little more Sol and poke the silvered spot with the point of a sharp new Xacto blade. This will let the solvent get inside and work on the decal more. Then after all this is dried you can just spray a coat of Testor's Dullcote on the sidewalls and your flat surface will be fine! Here is an example of some tires done this way. This was done probably 10 years ago and I know the photo isn't the best but it does show the nice flat finish n the tires... Hope this helps! Hosted on Fotki Edited December 23, 2011 by Terry Sumner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Thanks Greg and Bart. That roll cage sure looks better now, and I'm glad I got that suggestion on other forum. Thanks Terry, great tip! I've been thinking about that silvering, and how to remove it... In some other projects too. Needs to try that one. So Do I have to uninstall those decals before dipping tires? Thanks for the great tip, it helps so much. And Merry Christmas everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Niko...I don't know if this will work or not but you can give it a shot. The problem lies in the non-glossy surface that the decal was applied to... i.e. your sanded sidewalls. What I would do to attempt a fix would be to apply a little Future to the decal and try to puncture the heck out of it with the point of a new Xacto blade. What you are trying to do here is to create little holes for the Future to seep under the decal and fill in all the millions of micropscopic hills and valleys the sanding has created under the decal. If it's working you should actually see the silvering disappear as the Future is doing it's job. If that does not work...and you really want to do it right....then I would say the only way would be to remove the decals, dip the sidewalls as I explained above and reapply decals over the Future-coated sidewalls. Then spray with the Testor's Dullcote... Heck, it's worth a shot right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Thanks for the advice, Terry! It's always great thing to get constructive critic, and suggestions. They just help me to build better models. I will try that "easy way" first, and lets see if it works, hopefully it will. Of course that "hard way" is not inpossible either, so needs to look what I can do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Well don't worry about it there young man...you are doing very well right now. You are really "into" building models right now so there will always be the next one you can try the technique on. One other thing...may I ask if you are building this car to American NHRA rules or rules from Finland? Because I don't know about Finnish drag rules, but American NHRA rules for stock classes requires that the rear seat has to stay in the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caine440 Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 This is one great looking project! Very nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6bblbird Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Well don't worry about it there young man...you are doing very well right now. You are really "into" building models right now so there will always be the next one you can try the technique on. One other thing...may I ask if you are building this car to American NHRA rules or rules from Finland? Because I don't know about Finnish drag rules, but American NHRA rules for stock classes requires that the rear seat has to stay in the car. Ummm don't try to confuse the kid! I do believe that he knows the rules quite well. You absolutely are allowed to remove the rear seat in a Stock Eliminator car if you install a roll bar. It is also allowable to trim the leading and trailing edge of the wheel openings a maximum two inches for tire clearance. WF (SFI tech inspector and 1:1 Stock Eliminator racer) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 Thanks! One other thing...may I ask if you are building this car to American NHRA rules or rules from Finland? Because I don't know about Finnish drag rules, but American NHRA rules for stock classes requires that the rear seat has to stay in the car. I've been building this to match Finnish rules, but actually they are same ones than NHRA rules are. And as Walter said, rear seat can be removed if you have roll bar in the car. Otherwise, full interior is required. It has been a while since I've been looking for the rule book, but I think, I remember something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Sumner Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Yup...you're right...can remove the back seat if you install a roll bar. Forgot about that. Oh well they say the memory is the first thing to go. And something else too...they say the memory is the first thing to go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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