Fiat Topolino '60s Altered & Finished Slingshot Dragster


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Posted (edited) · Report post

Ok, I got that Double Dragster kit as christmas present, and I'm trying to build that Open rail Dragster and Topolino altered, for now. Maybe later I'll build Streamliner Dragster too.

I'm going to install Chevy Small Block in that Dragster, and it will have this kind of Blower system: http://www.flickr.co...67448/lightbox/ So if anyone has pictures about wiring and plumbing that kind of Blower system, I'd like to see them. Information is of course welcome. And it would be nice to hear if there are something to fix, or modify before I get any longer with this. So far I've glued block halves together. Fit issues and some other problems would be nice to hear, since I'm trying to make these look as good as I can with these skills. Not going to do so large project anyway (like not going to build frame again), but just lots of detailing and some "easy tricks" to make model look better.

Any help would be very appreciated. :rolleyes:

Edited by W-409

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Thanks, Terry! ;) Great pictures, those help very much!

I found problem with Topolino Altered. There's missing that part F6, which is rear engine mount (or something like that). But after few moments of thinking, I thought, that I would scratchbuild it. Needs to find correct size bottle and then some aluminium, or silver sheet metal. I just need to build frame first, because I haven't that original part, so I must have almost completed frame for test fitting while scratchbuilding that part. So I'll start from the frame with that build.

I might do this as WIP thread too, because this kit has so much unusual parts and they are molded bit different. So then I can ask help when I'm in trouble, and of course your comments will give inspiration to keep on building, I think.

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That's the spirit! Keep on building... ;)

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The Potvin blowers on the small block Chevy's are still in pretty common usage, you have to decide if you're going to use injectors or carbs. The one in you photo is injected, which I believe was most common. The metal Shapers website is about the most historical resource I found when doing one of those Revel Part's Pack's SBC's with the Potvin:

http://allshops.org/...d=9980114546393

Some of these pictures are rather dated but I think your subject will match. There are also a number of different configurations, laying on the side, upright, etc. Scroll down about 2/3rds of the way down this page for about the best wiring and plumbing pic I was able to find:

http://www.mooneyesu...roducts_id=2155

Edited by FresnoPete

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Thanks, great pictures. I'm going with Injectors on this one, maybe some day I'll build one with carburetors... Great pictures and info, thanks for them. B)

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Ok, here's the first set of WIP pictures. Slingshot Dragster is on the bench first, I startede building from the engine. No need for bondo, I used Tamiya liquid cement to smooth that engine block seam, and then orange paint. After paint was dry, I assembled oil pan and cylinder heads. I also added some putty to that front mount of that engine (or what it is called). I continue tomorrow, so stay tuned. ;)

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Looking good Niko! I have been eyeing this set at the local hobby store. This is the same one with the double dragster and metal Tin?

Edited by eviltwincustoms

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Thanks, Bart. I don't know the differences between "normal" version, and that Tin Box version. This is just "normal-version", but I would think, there are no differences in the parts, maybe it's just that box. But I might be wrong also. :rolleyes:

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Niko (and everyone else for that matter), all of the Squadron putty's are lacquer based, if you add just a touch of thinner to it you can adjust the consistency of the putty. This came into best effect when doing aircraft seams but on things where you need a little putty into a narrow gap it works great. You can brush it into sink marks and it will work easier than with a blade or scraper. When you have big gaps between, say, a head and the block, thin the putty to a consistency of soup and flow it into the gap. It'll preserve the line between the parts but fill the gap nicely.

Edited by FresnoPete

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I got the regular box version and you can only build two cars with it....the Fiat and either style dragster. With the tin version I believe that you can build all three cars. There is also colored glass in the tin version and possibly a slightly different wheel variation. I would spend the extra money and go with the tin can version. I really loved this kit and watching old videos and researching was really fun. On YouTube there is a video titled "Ingenuity in Action" (1958). It is really cool and I watched it several times during my build.

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I got the regular box version and you can only build two cars with it....the Fiat and either style dragster. With the tin version I believe that you can build all three cars. There is also colored glass in the tin version and possibly a slightly different wheel variation. I would spend the extra money and go with the tin can version. I really loved this kit and watching old videos and researching was really fun. On YouTube there is a video titled "Ingenuity in Action" (1958). It is really cool and I watched it several times during my build.

Thanks Steven for that insight... That seals it then... Thanks for making me spend money! J/k... I appreciate the insight.

Edited by eviltwincustoms

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Niko (and everyone else for that matter), all of the Squadron putty's are lacquer based, if you add just a touch of thinner to it you can adjust the consistency of the putty....

Well, this was really great information, THANKS! I've been thinking, that Green Putty is too thick, but needs to try some thinner. Thanks. I've been looking for another, thinner putty which is bit easier to use, than "bondo". But now if it works, problem is solved. Thanks again.

Steven: Thanks for the information. That shows, Tin Box version should have been better. But in this kit, there's frame and body for two Dragsters, so axles etc. are not so big problem. I was watching, that Streamliner Dragster can be modified to look better too. I'm going to take Dremel on my hands, when I start building it. Thanks for the information.

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Here's little update. I painted some silver for the valve covers, to give some more realistic look. Somehow they just didn't look good. I also removed some ejector marks from the intake manifold, and that's why there were not much chrome left. I painted it silver, but after that I found little mistake, which needs to be fixed before assembling that intake manifold. I have no pics about valve covers yet anyway.

Here's the intake manifold.

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And also I had to glue piece of paper between the engine block, and that bellhousing, because otherwise it was possible to see, what's inside that bellhousing and there were nothing, of course. So I glued bit of paper, and painted it orange to fix this thing.

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Yeah, little more work for the intake manifold. I had to put some bondo there, and tomorrow I'll be sanding it. Then more paint, and maybe I can start assembling some of the engine components together too...

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I was able to build this Dragster too. I sanded intake manifold smooth and painted it again. Then just glued it on place. Headers are also installed. Before that I had to drill holes for them. Little black and silver touchups and here's how the engine looks right now...

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Little update for the engine. I drilled holes for those spark plug wires to the distributor, and also on cylinder heads. Also I have glued those wires already to distributor. Maybe tomorrow, or then on Wednesday I will be finishing those plug wires.

Thanks for looking.

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Posted · Report post

Looking good Niko....I really like that orange you used on the engine. keep it going!

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Little update for the engine. I drilled holes for those spark plug wires to the distributor, and also on cylinder heads. Also I have glued those wires already to distributor. Maybe tomorrow, or then on Wednesday I will be finishing those plug wires.

Thanks for looking.

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You're going to need a magneto instead of a distributor unless you're building a "nostaligia dragster" and if so you'll also need a whole lot more safety goodies too.

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Posted · Report post

Niko.... looking great man. the.engine is tirning out nice!!!

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I believe the kit supplied magnetos are replicating the very popular Joe Hunt magnetos. The difference is the wires exit the side versus the top like most distributors. Either way it looks much better with spark plugs than without.

joehuntmagneto2.jpg

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Thanks guys! I believe, that I can make that magneto to look more like magneto after bit working today... So stay tuned. ;) Actually I don't know, what was in my mind when I started drilling those holes, I should have realized that these cars had magnetos.

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Niko......that engine is looking GREAT!!!!!.......everytime I follow your builds......I see your luv and passion......that you have for modeling ........you are doing some great work.

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Keep up the good work, and keep sharing . . .

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Thanks John! It means alot when that comes from one Pro Modeler like you! B) Thanks again. Model building is really fun and great way to relax.

Thanks, Virgil! Here's another update for you:

I built two parts what make plug wires run more nicely (what are they called in english?). I drilled four holes on sheet styrene. Wires run nicely now, and fabricated little top part on that magneto, looks better?

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One More..

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