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Being out of town for a couple weeks on business, I found a place that sells House of Kolor in 4oz bottles. I bought a couple bottles to see what all the rage is. I used lacquer thinner versus their recommended reducer with pretty good results. My question is: What kind of paint is this? Is it enamel, lacquer, or what? I don't think it's urethane because the lettering in the model number usually has a "U". Here's the bottles:

2012-01-28144956.jpg

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Dough, that's the real thing. Yes, it's urethane. You got two beautiful colors there.

What did you end up paying for them, if you don't mind my asking?

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They are urethane enamels vs a polyurethane paint most often referred to as urethane clears. Polyurethanes require an activator to harden where the urethane enamels harden by evaporation of solvents. The paint term "urethane" is often misused and confused.

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So are these paints I've bought any less dangerous than the other urethanes? I'm opting for lacquer thinner versus activator.

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Try HOK reducer rather than lacquer thinner.....lacquer thinner can curdle....I use RU 301and no need for hardeners...on models

Edited by MikeMc

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Here in FLA, I use the med temp HOK thinner. Just to be safe, you protect your lungs and wear a mask, long sleeves, I've started wearing goggles in particular if I am shooting flakes, etc . . . the stuff will get in your eyes, on your skin, etc . . . don't take any chances.

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I use duplacolor clear lacquer, HOK does have a clear lacquer intercoat...used between colors and tapeoffs. Any good clear will work

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I got a free can of sg-100 from a paint store, but it's not really meant to be used as a final clear coat per the instructions....too many coats and it will bubble.

Another question: I've done the Yost method with enamels, but what is the preferred method of painting bodies using urethane? Many coats? Many light coats? Time in between coats?

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Doug, I use DuPont Acrylic Spot Clear, you get great results each and every time.

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Thanks Dr.C....what is your method of using HOK paints though? How do you spray it? Many light coats? One heavy coat? Time between coats?

DOug

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Doug....all paints thru an A/B should be a buildup of thin mist coats....same with the clears. Most mfgrs in the MSDS or instruction sheets give a recoat time....HOK and duplacolor lacquers are 15 to 20 min between coats...Tamiya TS 13 clear must go on Tamiya lacquers when shooting color, or wait for a month to prevent cracking of the clear, if your not sure about any paint issues, get a box of plastic spoons and test your method and color, and clear....before you do the body

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I got a free can of sg-100 from a paint store, but it's not really meant to be used as a final clear coat per the instructions....too many coats and it will bubble.

SG100 has no UV protection...they used to have the same clear with the uv protection, but thats gone now....I use the SG100 as an intercoat.

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With House of Kolor Urethanes (which is what you have in those bottles) should be applied in light to medium coats with approximately 5-15 minutes "flash time" (allowing paint to flash dry to a dull finish) between coats. 1st coat should be a light "guide coat"...you still should see base color or primer color showing through. 2nd coat should be a little "heavier" than the 1st. Full coverage can be obtained in 2 - 3 coats. If you are doing graphics, two-tones, etc., you should spray the SG100 over the basecoat to protect it from the dreaded "peel away" (when the tape brings paint with it). SG100 is NOT a final clear! If you are not doing graphics, two-tones, etc., there is no need for the SG100.

As far as clear goes, I have used several different clears. I've used DuPont, HOK, Nason, PPG, etc.

I have not used the spray bomb clear that Dr. Cranky uses, but I'm sure it sprays and looks killer. After all, it is DuPont. haha

The clear that I have been using lately is Nason SelectClear. It costs about $40 or so (that's a quart of clear and a pint of activator/hardener).

If you don't want to get into the wonderful world of 2 part clears, I would suggest trying Dr. Cranky's choice. But be warned...that can is probably close to $20.

Hope this helps and doesn't confuse you too much more.

If you have anymore questions, feel free to ask or PM me.

And for your reading pleasure...I present the MSDS for HOK...

http://houseofkolor....KTechManual.pdf

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If you haven't already done so, I would pick up some HOK Reducer. And depending upon where in the good ole USA you live would depend on the reducer "temp" that you would get. I live in Central Florida and it is primarily warm (read:hot) and humid most of the year. I use RU311 (its their "medium temp"). Anyways...you may need to reduce those bottles that you have in the picture just a bit more. I have a bottle of Tangelo Pearl, Majic Blue Pearl, and Limetime Pearl and each one of them needed to be reduced some more. At least for me such was the case.

Glad that I was able to help...I've learned by trial and error in the 1:1 world and its an expensive trial and error.

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