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Choosing Primer

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Most people say that one color primer is the best but the peron that made the most sense to me said use ruddy brown with reds, white or light gray with light colors, and dark gray with dark colors.

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Posted · Report post

Most people say that one color primer is the best but the peron that made the most sense to me said use ruddy brown with reds, white or light gray with light colors, and dark gray with dark colors.

It will depend upon how you want the final color to look, but in general, matching the primer or base color to the top coat works best IMHO. Yellows, whites, and red should use a white base, and dark colors (black, nay blue) should use either a dark grey or black base. These are all assuming you're using solid colors, not candies, pearls, etc.

Here's some good info: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=35

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Posted · Report post

Reds should use ruddy brown.

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Casey, that was very valuable information. Thanks, and much appreciated.

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White primer will make red "pop" much better than ruddy brown.

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if you use a yellow tinted primer on red it will really pop!

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on a relative note, how long should the wait be between primer and paint? i've heard everything from 24 hours to 30 days. i don't build so fast it matters, but once in a while i get some blocks of time where this information would be helpful.

thanks

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if you use a yellow tinted primer on red it will really pop!

I'll remember that next time I do one in red, as I do have a can of yellow primer in my paint stash. Edited by Longbox55

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Posted · Report post

It will depend upon how you want the final color to look, but in general, matching the primer or base color to the top coat works best IMHO. Yellows, whites, and red should use a white base, and dark colors (black, nay blue) should use either a dark grey or black base. These are all assuming you're using solid colors, not candies, pearls, etc.

Here's some good info: http://www.tamiyausa...p?article-id=35

Yep...tint the primer

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Posted · Report post

on a relative note, how long should the wait be between primer and paint? i've heard everything from 24 hours to 30 days. i don't build so fast it matters, but once in a while i get some blocks of time where this information would be helpful.

thanks

I smell the painted object, if it doesn't smell like paint your good to go. I have never had a problem with this method if you are wondering.

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  1. White primer will make red "pop" much better than ruddy brown.

Primer has little to do with this as use what is also called a sealer coat. This can be Black,Yellow,White are the three main ones as Black helps darken a Hue number as White helps brighten a hue number. But for red to pop Yellow under a red will make the Hue number jump higher then any other color number on the chart. This number that i'm talking about is called a Hue number in the color spectrum. You really like to make a red get brighter then any thing you seen and I'm talking about a normal red for testing use a yellow under it and see you like that.

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Chas - You're so right. Mike Alexander told me how to make red paint pop. He said yellow primer is the best. I miss talking to him about paint.

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I also guess I should explain that there is 3 3 digit numbers that are in each color as it compare to the hue number. They are normaly broken down as a High .000 number and mid .000 number and low .000 number. When you mix paint to make a color say we take the 1950 Plymouth black. This Black is the only true black paint ever to have the middle number at .000 on the hue chart. This means it takes this one color a .100 High and another color .100 mix the two to get a .000 in the middle to make the most perfict black. Now if you mix it a little off the number will drop down say a little more of the high color. .100 Mid will change say .005 and the low number will go down to a .095 and this will give it a diffrent hue look under the light. Now not much can be seen with the naked eye on this issue with some colors but when you put another color on it. You can great'ly change the mid and low number and move it all to the high end and make stuff pop harder or brighter.

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Posted · Report post

yeah; i was going to say that ...

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why does my primer and final color have a grainy or orange peel look to it i sand the primer coat with 880 than 1000 then put final color on and it looks grainy/orange peel.ive tried spray cans / air brush on final color still same effects. what am i doing wrong in the past never had this problem before pleease help on verge of giving up on modeling.

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Posted · Report post

Could be anything you might be doing.

Maybe a real detailed accounting of your procedure???

CadillacPat

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Posted (edited) · Report post

why does my primer and final color have a grainy or orange peel look to it i sand the primer coat with 880 than 1000 then put final color on and it looks grainy/orange peel.ive tried spray cans / air brush on final color still same effects. what am i doing wrong in the past never had this problem before pleease help on verge of giving up on modeling.

You are not doing anything wrong. The problem is primers ar very porous and tend to soak up the first layers of the color coat. I always consider the first few coats to be nothing but a sealer coat. I let it dry and sand down then apply the final coats. It always comes out better the second time.

Edited by 935k3

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@ Chevy2Much You ever think of not starting with 800 grit sand paper? That could be your reason as it does not need to be sanded down with that. 1500 to start will do just good and if you need a little more extra add water and this helps also.

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Posted · Report post

white makes yellow pop

get a color wheel and practice mixing

try your junior college for a color, light and pigment class

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I'm looking at shooting testors laquer emerald green on a couple different bodys. I'm wondering what color primer should I put down? On the lamborghini I just painted flamming orange , I used gray but when I went to shoot the underside of the engine cover I didn't primer and in hindsight I should have primered the whole car in white. Should I use white for the green? I thought I read somewhere to use silver for metallics is that true?

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It all depends on what you want the hue to be, there is no wrong base to use

I will give you an example, I used emerald green when I did the Bullitt Mustangs, I used a flat black base coat

The best advice is to get your self some plastic spoons, or scrape plastic and do some testing with different color base coats to see which one you like the best

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Johnathan's absolutely correct about spoon testing. It will save you alot of heartache! The general rule of thumb, is to keep the primer in the body color's spectrum. Reds and oranges use the red oxide color. Dark blues, purples and blacks, use the black primer and of course whites, yellows, sky blues you want a white primer. However, you can easily change the hue or tint of a color by switching up the primers.

If you want your testors bright red really bright shoot it over a white primer. If you want it the shade it's formulated to be, use red oxide. If you want it a shade darker like a blood red, go with the black primer. It's not always that cut and dry and this is why we always suggest the spoon test. Hit the dollar store and pick up a hundred spoons for a buck. You're set for a while! ;)

And yes, silver is a good base for metallics.

Edited by MAGNUM4342

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Posted · Report post

And yes, silver is a good base for metallics.

What is it about using silver for metallics that makes it good?

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What is it about using silver for metallics that makes it good?

Metallics are primarily transparent colors. The flakes that give it the sparkle float inside the tinted clear paint same as pearls do. Using a silver or gold base under the metallic reflects the incoming light back through the metallics paint causing it to shine and sparkle brighter than if a standard primer were used.

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I learn something everyday

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