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Scale-Master

Lexus LFA

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Eveything looks great, It amazes me how you bring out the detail in these tamiya kits just with paint,

Also, were do you get the background(paper?) I have seen a few people use it but canot find were it can be sourced. Thanks for any help.

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The "background paper" is my kitchen counter...

Suspension/driveline, top view.

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Bottom view…

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And installed into the chassis.

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Door panel. I added the speaker decals, kind of surprised they did not provide any in the kit…

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Seats are installed. Same red as the carpet, minus the texture.

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Clear coated the body…

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The "background paper" is my kitchen counter...

Not to get too off topic, but what are you using for lighting, I would have bet that was outside in the sun !!!

The clear really made that white POP !!! I've never messed with tamia paints, I may have to get out of my box and look at some new products.

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thanks, i just thought it was paper becasue i have seen several modelers with the same background, but i guse that we all just love the same kitchen.

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It is sun light, nothing better for this camera... A few high caliber builders/friends have shot photos here using my base. That could have made it seem more common? But I have not noticed any other paper backgrounds that look the same... And thanks guys!

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Is that a small red spot of Paint I see on the silver part of the handle?

Yes. The instructions call out for that little raised (padded?) piece to be painted the same color as the seats.

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I thought flocking would look too coarse so I mixed up some textured paint to use for the red carpeted areas.

smiley_thumbs_up.gif

Looks great so far.

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Yes. The instructions call out for that little raised (padded?) piece to be painted the same color as the seats.

I think he means right below the part that should be red? Looks like a little red got in the silver maybe.

I must say you are doing a great job with this. I also did this kit. I will say the kit photo etch is verrrrry easy to bend, so be careful when putting on the rear belly pan cover thing (I am sure you will). Also there are some other pieces that will be painted the body color and the little bar under the rear bumper has a paint call-out to be black as well.

I will be watching this.

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Wow, tough crowd. I guess if that is bad enough to point out it I should fix it… ;)

I went around the edge with a toothpick to clean it up. I’m sure it will be OK since I doubt it can be seen too well through the windows once installed.

DSC09963.jpg

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Do you have a how to any where?

Thanks. Not really, but if you have a specific question I'll try to answer it.

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Do you heat your cans of paint or decant and airbrush?

Yes, and no...

I live in a warm part of the country, so I don't have to heat them unless I'm getting to the bottom of a can, or it is colder than normal. I do decant and airbrush, but also spray from the can. Kind of like shooting with a full size gun and a touch up gun at the same time.

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I used some Strip Kleen lacquer thinner to cut the TS-45 Pearl White when I was airbrushing the body. The white on the hood came out of the spray can only. But it turns out the thinner is no longer crystal clear, but has a slight amber tint to it, enough to change the color.

As you can see, the hood is whiter, and truth be told it is what I would have preferred, but it's easier by far to adjust the tint of the hood.

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I knocked the clear on the hood down with 1200 and mixed a new batch of pearl white by eyeball with the “yellow” thinner and airbrushed it.

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Then clear coated it. I really thinned the clear out this time. 3 parts reducer instead of 2 like the rest of the car, the clear doesn’t even need reducer. I put on four light coats with 20 minutes flash time between them to get a thin yet deep enough look.

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Only a little one day delay. Now I am back on track…

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Dash is done…

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And installed into the completed interior…

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Valve covers are done and the decals have been applied to the calipers…

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Some underhood details too…

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And the rear wings… One for “up” and one for “down” positions.

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Yes. Decals are intended to be applied to paint, not plastic. In this case just a light coat of white purely to aid in adhesion.

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No problem Dave. Your description of the way it chipped is indicative of the first issue you can have without the paint for the decal to adhere to. Even if you succeed in getting the decal on well, (without paint underneath) unless you seal it with a clear coat, odds are quite high it will chip off later. Any decal, not just C/F.

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The screens are mostly PE (except the two main rear vents, although they have little PE parts in them) and are very well done, both in look and fit. They are very delicate too, but a light touch and you’ll have no problems. The lights also fit excellently and are engineered to make installation relatively easy.

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Once the decals dry, it will be waxed and have the windows installed and put onto the chassis and interior.

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