Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

How To: Widen Fenders the easy way...


Recommended Posts

Dan Johnston asked "can you give us a tutorial on how you did the wide body rear?... it looks like you just cut it along the top of the Quarter panel and pulled it apart and filled it with scrap plastic... but how did you pull it apart to creat a gradual arch in the Quarter without cutting it loose from the front or rear " Here ya go Dan...

Below is the project that inspired this Question. To fit the Tires I wanted on this build I decided to widen the fenders rather than Tub the chassis and have to cut up the interior and modify the suspension...

IMG_3800-vi.jpg

Well Lucky for Dan I had an extra body laying around so I did it again but this time doing step by step photos. From start to finish, including photography it took 15 minutes. (It took longer to write about it than it did to do it!)

1. Measure. Figure out just how much wider you need this fender to be. The wider it is the longer the cut has to be this particular fender is being widened 4 scale inches.

IMG_3859-vi.jpg

2. Drill a Pilot hole to start the cut with the razor saw.

IMG_3860-vi.jpg

3. Mark your cut. If possible try not to cross door lines or other panel lines as this adds to the work later...

IMG_3861-vi.jpg

4. Start your cut, and try to follow your cut line as straight as possible...

IMG_3862-vi.jpg

5. Cut a strip of fairly thick plastic. It can be a piece of scrap body or what ever. Cut it to the widtch you are widening the body by. (in this case 4mm) Make sure it's long enough that you can do both fenders with one strip so they are symmetrical. Insert the plastic in the slit and turn it to stretch the fender...

IMG_3863-vi.jpg

6. You will notice that the fender opening sticks out further at the middle than the ends. To fix this slide the strip down until it is even with the front of the fender opening, then clip it off, and insert the strip again and move it to the other end of the fender opening. This is what gives the stretched fender a pleasing arch.

IMG_3864-vi.jpg

7. Clip off the rest of the strip, and back the hole with masking tape.

IMG_3865-vi.jpg

8. Fill hole with medium thick super glue (also called "gap filling") and hit it with accelerator. It should be ready to sand in seconds.

IMG_3867-vi.jpg

Edited by Darin Bastedo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

how stable is the super glue without anything mixed into it? would mixing microballoons, baby powder or baking powder help to make a stronger fill section?

Actually I've found the superglue to as strong if not stronger than the surrounding plastic. I've never tried mixing anything into it, so I don't know what effect it would have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty clever... but don't the plastic "wedges" also distort and push in the bodywork as much as they push out the fenders?

To a certain extent there is some distortion, and that of course limits how wide you can go with this method. The further out you go the longer you must make the cut, as the plastic will stretch some but not a lot. to go wider than I show here (about 4mm) you would want a different method, but this works especially well when you need 1-2mm of clearance with a minimum amount of work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how stable is the super glue without anything mixed into it? would mixing microballoons, baby powder or baking powder help to make a stronger fill section?

I found super glue to be very strong as well. I filled the entire rear wheel openings on a T-Bird build by backing with scotch tape and applying glue and accelerator until desired thickness. It is harder than the plastic and bonds extremely well. It actually gets very warm, almost hot, and produces nasty fumes, so I did it in my paint box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well done! I used the same technique on this 69 Camaro....I filled the gap with sheet styreen and Tenax...I like the CA / accelerator idea..I've used that for small sections. Only clue is the end of the bumpers ...

IMG_1152.jpg

Edited by MikeMc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I might have to give this a try on a Camaro I have collecting dust. If I screw it up its only a Camaro! (I like 'em but I am a MOPAR Man!) If it works then maybe I try it on a REAL CAR, One of my Mopars!

Thanks for a great how to!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just wanted to share this, after seeing this yesterday I went home and tried it. BUT IN REVERSE!

I used this technique on the rear inner wheel wells on a 71 GTX and pushed the inner wall of the wheel well inward to get more room for a wider/bigger tire. Worked perfect! I will get some pics up soon!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just wanted to share this, after seeing this yesterday I went home and tried it. BUT IN REVERSE!

I used this technique on the rear inner wheel wells on a 71 GTX and pushed the inner wall of the wheel well inward to get more room for a wider/bigger tire. Worked perfect! I will get some pics up soon!

great...i've already used a different method i found here on one side with surprising results (in a good way) but it was a TON of work...i wish i had come across this method prior to doing the other one...but i was going to try this on the other side and pray to the model car gods that both sides come out the same...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This looks great guys. But one question. Some1 mentioned this technique wouldn't work for a larger size look, so is there any other method or way of doing it??? Let me know thank u

hey Wilbert...i tried this method and while it came out pretty good...it was A LOT of work...i'm pretty sure that despite me trying to do it exactly as it was described, i overestimated my cuts and my gaps ended up being wider than the example...i managed to get it to work though, but i was doing to try the method posted here for the other side and hope for the best...

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=21186&st=0&p=189567&hl=widebody&fromsearch=1&#entry189567

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
Guest G Holding

Took a while to find this one, so I bumped it up after reading the 1/12th Camaro review

post-9941-0-73144600-1368908866_thumb.jp

Edited by G Holding
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had marginal success doing this. The fender seems to have been stronger than the horizontal body. Fender didn't widen but body caved. Yet I've seen this done effectively by others. I ended up adding a split to give the fender room to expand out, then fill the horizontal cut and the vertical split.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe thin the thickness of the plastic some before starting? The plastic around the wheel opening? It might give it a little more flex being thinner?

I haven't tried this yet so I'm just guesstimating.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...