1/8 scale 1929 Tudor Sedan

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A dream I've had since I first got into big scale has finally come true. Here is the first resin casting of a new 1/8 scale 1929 Tudor Sedan body. It started as a computer 3-D file that was printed and then used as a master to cast more in resin. The "first run" is filled and closed and there will be a second run if there's enough interest and once all the first orders are filled. I know the bosses here don't approve of selling on this board so you can see pics of the process and find more info here ...

http://public.fotki....929-ford-tudor/

http://www.facebook....9085230?sk=wall

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30 mitutes with a dremmel and it's ready for primer ...

Stay tuned as I will use this thread for my buildup of this great new body.

000_6668-vi.jpg

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Posted · Report post

Just out of curiosity, are there fenders and/or other peripheral body parts that either are, or will be, produced?

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The body comes with a seperate windshield frame and visor and there is a 29 radiator and grill shell available too. The cost to print & cast the fenders is high so there are no plans for them in the near future. If enough interest is shown in what we have now it is a possibility.

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Posted · Report post

That, is awesome. :)

I have to admit paging through your Fotki albums (via the Large Scale Modeler forum ) a time or two and you have some really great stuff both in the works and completed.

Is this body designed to fit on the Big Deuce rails?

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Posted · Report post

Thank you for the compliment Casey

Is this body designed to fit on the Big Deuce rails?

It will fit, but as with the 1/1. the 32 frame would have to be narrowed a little at the rear so the body will fit over it,

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On with the build ...

The casting had a few minor dimples so a little spot putty cured that.

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Since the body came with a flush, flat firewall the first thing was to replicate a stock one.

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I used a dremel to create a lip for the hood.

Then a file to cut the relief in the center.

Next I added scrap plastruc to build up the bottom.

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I cut the bottom out for the undercut then added a piece of 00.60 styreen placed at a bevel.

Most of the center of this piece will be removed for the transmission hump.

If you channel the body this step can be omitted.

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Now for bondo and sanding. Have I ever said "I HATE SANDING" !!!!!

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Stay tuned, more to come ...

.

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Posted · Report post

I think that it looks Awesome, and a fantastic job on the Firewall as well, lookig good!

mickey

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Posted · Report post

NICE! It looks great! It would look cool with a chopped top!

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Posted (edited) · Report post

It would look cool with a chopped top!

I'm leaning more toward an unchopped hiboy with a four banger or maybe stock flathead.

DSC01436.JPG

I have another one of these bodys coming and it will get the full treatment.

Chopped, channeled, Z'd, big blown V8, etc :D

.

Edited by old-hermit

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Posted · Report post

Or, a big "Orange Crate". :)

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Here is the windshield frame and visor that come with the body ...

000_6689-vi.jpg

And the radiator & grill shell that are available seperately ...

000_6690-vi.jpg

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I had an old, damaged Deuce frame and some suspension parts so I took what I could find in the parts box and got started.

I filled the sides of the frame with putty so it would look more like a Model A frame.

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Then cut the front & rear frame horns off.

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I left a lip on the rear to rest the body on ...

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After a test fit I needed to trim the base of the cowl so the bottom of the body would fit flush

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I'll be using a Lindberg Banjo rear axle & spring so I had to remove the Revell spring mount

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I didn't have a rear spring to axle mount so I cut up two radius rods and made some

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I'll be using a three link system front and rear.

The ends of the three link rods were broken off so I drilled holes in the ends and put cotter keys in.

I'll use 00.80 bolts to anchor them to the frame.

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Heres a mock up with an old Pontiac engine just to test fit.

The more I think about it, the more a stock flathead would look good.

000_6688-vi.jpg

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Posted · Report post

I love it!! I want one!!

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i don't know al.........i think a twin mccullough supercharged donovan would be the ticket here. hehe.

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i don't know al.........i think a twin mccullough supercharged donovan would be the ticket here. hehe.

I'll have to ponder that for the next one Dave. ;) This one I'm going for a 40's era daily driver.

PS, needed more putty. I HATE SANDING !!!!!

000_6679-vi.jpg

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Posted · Report post

Finally smooth. HURRAY !!!!!!

000_6709-vi.jpg

Decided on a mostly stock flathead ...

000_6708-vi.jpg

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Posted · Report post

were can i get one of those bodys ??

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Posted · Report post

I love the motor! Will that be part of the kit as well?

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were can i get one of those bodys ??

PM sent

I love the motor! Will that be part of the kit as well?

It's not a kit Ian, just a resin body. The builder will have to supply everything else.

The motor pictured is one I built from kit & resin parts and some scratch building.

.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I had to create the reinforcing ribs and sheet metal edges so I cut narrow strips of thin plastruc sheet for the edges and half round for the ribs.

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I also added the reinforcing ribs to the rear fender well.

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I added two small brass nuts for the radiator support rods and a couple of coats of filler primer and I have a completed stock firewall.

000_6724-vi.jpg

Edited by old-hermit

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Posted · Report post

It's looking great, O-H... I really like what you've done so far. The flatty is an excellent choice and looks great.

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Posted · Report post

Thanks Scott, I'm having fun.

Got the suspension mocked up and just about ready for paint

I used a pin vice to drill the ends of the tri link rods to accept the 00.90 bolts

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00.80 hardware

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Lindberg rear axle, Big T spring, Golden T tri link bar. Kit bashing at it's finest. heh heh heh.

000_6731-vi.jpg

Final mock up. A couple of minor adjustments and she's ready for paint.

000_6733-vi.jpg

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Posted · Report post

great looking build, al. suspension is looking sweet. nice idea with the cotter pins for rod ends.

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Posted · Report post

Looking very nice. Did you snip one side of the cotter pins off as you fit them into the holes?

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Did you snip one side of the cotter pins off as you fit them into the holes?

Yes I did. Ken. The cotter pins I had on hand were to big to fit in the small diameter plastic rod. I put the cut side down and it's not noticeable. I did a four link on another build using the same method with aluminum tube and was able to use the entire pin.

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