Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

Frame stretching?

9 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

Ok so I did a forum search and havnt come up with too many solutions, basically what I am wondering is what are the differant methods that people are using to stretch frames? The only one I seem to be finding is buying a duplicate of the existing kit, cut a section out and ad it. Dont get me wrong it sounds like it works amazing but seems to be a bit of a budget breaker with the price of most of these kits.

So what I am wondering, is there any other moethods out there that are being used that does not include purchasing a second kit?

Thanks

James

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Never done it before, but thought of doing it for a future project.

They way I would go is to cut the frame in halve and make a new section of styrene. Sand it smooth and it should be ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

You can make it out of styrene stock, use flat stock for all the parts by cutting the piece for the main rail and then add the top and bottom. Or you can try to find some C channel that matches the size of the kit frame, or you can try I beam and cut one side of it flat. Stretch the frame in the middle where you won't mess up the mounting points for the front or rear suspension. Use really good glue like tenax or pro weld to bond the plastic together and be SURE to keep it straight.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

From time to time, someone sells long frame rails on E-bay or.......... you can use Evergreen #350 for the side rails and #346 for the top and bottom and build your own.

Mike

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

If you cut & splice frame sections together, the more surface contact you have, the stronger the connection. Perhaps a "stepped" cut?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Jon cole is right. I have found though that a 45 deg. angle cut handles the stress very well and a small scab patch on the back works the same way that I have done real steel. creates a strong joint. If you have an X-Acto miter box, look at that bottom lip it has too. I clamp it all to that as it sits upside down and it is a strong straight edge. Leave it clamped until it is cured, not just set.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

The truck manufactures recommend an angled cut for strength.

When I splice a frame I insert a piece of rigid plastic or brass (epoxy or CA glue in place) into the inside of the frame rail

covering the spliced area (in front of and behind the splice) to help stiffen the splice.

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

I do it the same way never tried the angles I always had good luck with a straight cut.I have heard on other forums that guys just add on to the back of the frame instead of cutting it.I havent tried that either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted · Report post

Here is my photo page. I cut on a 45 and off set the cuts. Driver side just in front of the drivers. Passenger side just behind the cab.I try to have 1/2 CM or so fore the glue to bite.

Cut the inserts so they fit snug inside the frame. Since most of frame can't been seen I made cross members from flat sheet.

http://s42.photobucket.com/albums/e347/cla_077/extending%20a%20frame/

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0