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Chip King's "Green Machine" Daytona Pro Mod

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Little work done on this one.. I turned the LENCO on my lathe. Looks much better than the lump in the RG engine kit.... I even threw it in the vice before parting off the rear case and drilled a couple pilot holes for the solenoids!! OOOOOOOOOOOhhhh!!! I used my mill for the first time. ;D


I will need to shave the clutch can flange a bit to mount it lower in the car but it is going to look cool


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Update looks great Dave. Machine work looks superb and I agree that it does look better than what comes in a RG kit but if you ever need any clutch cans or 4 speed Lencos from the TEM line let me know.

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Recently I have begun learning more about the mill.. I machined the fuel tank for the front of the car out of some 6061

Dirk showed me how to mill a side of the part, take it out of the vice, file it on a flat surface (I use the plate on my bench vise) and continue to each side. It took me about an hour to get the part done. I used a small end mill to add the groove (I don't have any slit saws yet). I also made the caps and learned from Dirk how to add precisely spaced detail, or holes, or whatever to a round part with the rotary. Its pretty easy to do actually and fun!


I also worked on my fab rear end for the car. Not everything will be dead on accurate to the real car. Chip ran a MW Rear end but no one makes one in 1/24 scale. Clay gave me this one from TEM. It will do I think. I used DM 4 link plates. Then I machined the hubs and filler cap. The hubs are not perfect but for a first try I can see what I have been missing. I will be doing more for sure!!!!


The rear diff should look good hooked up to the RB motion 4 links!


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I got over some "mountains" this week on the Daytona. My goal was to get the car sitting on all four corners without the Jig. Even though the jig is the sole reason I had success in getting the stance you will see here.

I hooked up my 4 links to the chassis using RB motion rod ends and K&S Aluminum tubing. I also turned some coil spring bodies on the lathe and wound some wire for springs. I made sure that when I glued the unit together that it was at the exact level for my tires to just fit perfectly.


I made sure my rear slicks were sanded perfectly smooth so as to not alter the level at which they sat against the suspension. At the same time I detailed them with good year eagle decals off the slixx drag goodie sheet. I also carefully painted the wheel beadlock with a black sharpie so the lock bolts stayed bare aluminum. Then I added a coat of future to seal them.


Once I had the rear suspension dialed in it was time to turn my attention to the front suspension. I snapped a quick phone picture of the front struts just after I made them on the lathe.


Next I made springs from wrapped wire and added them temporarily to the struts that were mocked up in their locations. The lower control arms were also made from RB motion Rod ends and K&S tubing meeting at the Strut cups. They were made with K&S tubing as well. Essentially the front end is completely scratch built except for the rod ends. I inserted #5 DM Hardline in the wheels, painted the ends and touched them to the lower strut bodies to mark them so I knew where to drill the struts for the wheel axles made from the #5 DM line. The tie rod end plates were milled from aluminum on my mill.


Since the Strut cups are not hollow on the bottom, I turned some caps and glued them in place making them look machined in the first place. Hollow tubing was easier to drill for the Control arm rods.


Once the front was done I slipped all the wheels and tires on and discovered all my hard work had paid off!! The car sits perfectly level.


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David... It's great to see you back on this build. Man is it impressive and the attention to detail on all the new stuff you have done. I have admired your work for many years. Thank you for sharing it here with us. I love this car.

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