Clear coating MM Metalizer paints

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Posted · Report post

I just recently finished reading through all 72 pages of Tips And Techniques. Took some time, but enjoyed every minute of it. This why I love car modeling, people share their ideas, tip and techniques. No so much in the aircraft community. I should know. I'm 71 years old and have been steadily modeling since 1969. Being a career Air Force guy, I naturally gravitated to aircraft and then some wise guy somewhere came out with resin cast classic sports racing cars. I was hooked.

To get to my point. I read a lot of entries in T and T about clear coating items painted with Testor's metalizers. I would like to add my 2 cents (which is actually worth about 0.0005 of a cent :lol:). I can screw up a paint job just by looking at it. So when I'm done spraying a part with metalizer, I clear coat it with Humbrol Satin Varnisher thinned 1-1 with Humbrol thinner. I don't think it makes the part look "toy-like" and does protect the finish. In fact, in some cases seems to enhance the metal look.

Just another possibility you could try when you have absolutely nothing else to do at your workbench.

Keep modeling everybody - it's a fabulous hobby

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Posted (edited) · Report post

The problem I have with clearing over metalizers is that if you BUFF the metalizer, to get the full advantage of the effect of the product, and then clear, the clear, in my experience, totally spoils the buffed effect.

Tell me what I'm doing wrong. Perhaps a water-base clear wouldn't.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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Posted · Report post

Bill,

My comments were based on buffing the metalizer, but I gotta be honest, I haven't tried an acrylic clear. May have to give it a shot. My favorite combo on the vintage racing engines I do is stainless steel lock, buffed and then hit with the Humbrol Clear Satin. Then for the exhaust I use titanium unbuffed and coated.

Happy Birthday America

Jerry

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Posted · Report post

hey guts, I hear this alot, alot!

Clearcoating metalizer is as simple as using the metalizer clear! It never dulls my finish, I even use it over Alclad chrome. Never, I repear, NEVER, do I have a problem with it.

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Posted · Report post

Metalizer clear or sealer ?

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Posted · Report post

I skip using the clear , steel, metal , brass, magnesium, aluminum ect.. is not coated with high gloss in the real world

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Posted · Report post

True, but what Jerry is saying is that if you use the Humbrol satin it seals it without being shiny and the part can be handled. Good tip.

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Posted · Report post

The wheels, and the blower are painted with Metalizers then clear coated with semi gloss clear testors

Blower and rear wheels are magnesium and the ft wheels are aluminum ( both lightly buffed then cleared )

Rambunctious1_zpsa3b49004.jpg

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Posted · Report post

I always use the Metalizer Sealer it works just fine

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Not sure what I am doing wrong, but when I use ANY clear/sealer so far on buffing Metzlizers, I am not happy with the finish afterwards. Over time I will keep trying other clears/sealers, but usually, I just plan on not handling the parts much after buffing. This entire projects is buffing steel , straight from the can, buffed out. Over time, as needed, I buff it up again. I can not imagine clearing it and chance having it look like a silver paint.

gallery_8985_798_35132.jpg

gallery_8985_798_31399.jpg

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Posted · Report post

I use metalizers religiously, they lay down so nice and almost dry instantly. I often use the testors sealer over my metals...to me it is very convincing. I have also used dull coat and wet look clear. I also have yet to find a glossy clear that keeps the shine...mostly when covering alclad chrome. Alclad has there own clear that I believe I will try next, has anyone tried the alclad clear coat?

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Well, I did some experimenting today. I shot the metalizer like always, slick and laid out just right, no peel, perfect. Let it dry a couple hours and buffed it. Looked just like polished aluminum. Shot Testors metalizer sealer over it and it looked like muddy silver paint. Finely-ground-pigment silver paint, and NOT AT ALL LIKE POLISHED ALUMINUM ANY MORE.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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Posted · Report post

Well, I did some experimenting today. I shot the metalizer like always, slick and laid out just right, no peel, perfect. Let it dry a couple hours and buffed it. Looked just like polished aluminum. Shot Testors metalizer sealer over it and it looked like muddy silver paint. Finely-ground-pigment silver paint, and NOT AT ALL LIKE POLISHED ALUMINUM ANY MORE.

yup, that is my experience. Do not want to end up with "silver" after using Metal!

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Posted · Report post

You can sand Metallizer and polish out to a mirror finish as well.

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Posted · Report post

Well, I did some experimenting today. I shot the metalizer like always, slick and laid out just right, no peel, perfect. Let it dry a couple hours and buffed it. Looked just like polished aluminum. Shot Testors metalizer sealer over it and it looked like muddy silver paint. Finely-ground-pigment silver paint, and NOT AT ALL LIKE POLISHED ALUMINUM ANY MORE.

Same effect when I clear coat or Metalizer sealer. A Buddy of mine has the same issue as well . Now, I spray it polish it & go on. Alclad Polished aluminum is a good product but dulls slightly over time. I'll stick to testors with a hand rub & leave it at that re polish as needed. Otherwise I will go back to Floquil Bright silver if I have to clear coat metalizers not much difference.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Today I tried a rattle-can fixative for charcoal & pencil drawings. It smells like hair spray of old and it probably is. Same effect of dulling the polished metalizer to look like silver paint.

Next up is a waterborne clear for real cars. It's solvent-free, so maybe it will not disturb the polished surface.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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