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International 4300 Transtar...with lights!


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I built this truck a while ago, but all the pictures I had of the in progress were lost when my phone decided to die. Still a few things left to do on it, such as finish the decals and bits of the trim. But I modified it slightly using Revell marker lights that I drilled out to fit the grain of rice lamps, then I drilled out the backs of the headlight bezels to accommodate the grain of wheat lamps. The opening doors on the sleeper were the perfect size for 2 nine volt batteries. I had to add some sort of resin filler to the notch I cut in the sleeper to hide the wires. The wheat lamps have their own dedicated 9V while the rice lamps have a separate battery. The whole thing is controlled by a DPDT. As soon as I get a new decal sheet (the one that came with it got ruined and I have no idea how) I can finish it off!

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That's nice. You should do a tutorial on lights. Cheers

Ben

I'm actually in the process of trying to make a kit that has 5 marker lights (revell style), 2 tail lights, 2 extra amber lamps, and headlights + battery clips and switch. If I get enough of "I want one of those!!!" I'll start making 'em.

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Nice job. I haven't seen incandescent lights on a model in a while. The wiring of the grain-of-rice (wheat) lights are of a larger gauge than LEDS, requiring more current. LEDS use thinner wires which can be made more obscure. But the grain-of-rice bulbs do cast a more realistic glow for the headlights.

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I found them at Hobbytown. Here are the GOW bulbs I used. http://www.hobbytown...-12V-w/6-Leads/

The small amber lights I used are a massive pain to find O.o

A vast array of small, tiny, and tini-er lights and wiring and switching components can be found at any decently-stocked model railroad shop.

For colors, such as amber or red or blue, I've simply used the common Tamiya clear paints to coat the bulbs. Grain of Wheat (GOW) and Grain of Rice (GOR) bulbs can be had in either 3-volt or 12-volt varieties. At low voltage, the coating won't burn off. That means, the 3-volt bulbs are no sweat and if you run the 12-volt bulbs on 9-volts you shouldn't have a problem if you don't leave them on for extended periods. It gets dicey when you run the 12-volt bulbs on 12-volts ...

Of course, LEDs are readily available at the model railroad stores, online, or from Radio Shack. With LEDs, they run so cool you won't have a problem with coatings.

B)

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A vast array of small, tiny, and tini-er lights and wiring and switching components can be found at any decently-stocked model railroad shop.

For colors, such as amber or red or blue, I've simply used the common Tamiya clear paints to coat the bulbs. Grain of Wheat (GOW) and Grain of Rice (GOR) bulbs can be had in either 3-volt or 12-volt varieties. At low voltage, the coating won't burn off. That means, the 3-volt bulbs are no sweat and if you run the 12-volt bulbs on 9-volts you shouldn't have a problem if you don't leave them on for extended periods. It gets dicey when you run the 12-volt bulbs on 12-volts ...

Of course, LEDs are readily available at the model railroad stores, online, or from Radio Shack. With LEDs, they run so cool you won't have a problem with coatings.

B)

I agree with Danno, I get my LEDs from a online store that specials in LEDs for model cars and trains.

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i have already seen sets for trucks and trailers

even one for a firetruck

sets already workin for revell and italeri so the seller said ,he have a lot of things for modeling

its have a old style and already a new generation in this stuff

but most sets are for european trucks what i have seen in the shop

but karak i like the international, nice work

jacobus

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