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1959 Chevy Impala----Just a tease! 4/9/16


MrObsessive

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Do you ever build one that is rusted s little bit?  I want to build one that has gone thru a few winters here in Ohio and rusted somewhat. 

Dan

No, I never really get into weathering such as rust and whatnot. I have to give it to those that can do that and make it look very realistic-----it's just something I've never really gotten into. I'd rather build them as they either sat brand new, or very recently restored. Kind of a nostalgia thing with me as I used to see these ALL THE TIME as a kid, but they've disappeared years ago. Only place to see 'em now is at a show, or very infrequently going down the road on a nice day. 

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What was the cause for the chassis fitment?

James, installing the chassis as is would leave the sides of it hanging down too much below the rocker panels. On some 1:1 pics I have of the car particularly a direct side shot, you can see just a teeny bit of the rear floor peaking just under the rocker. Not the entire length of the rockers would you see the chassis sides. 

It bugged me enough that I did some surgery as you've seen here. I'm happy with the way it looks now------trouble is if I do any more '59 Chevy's I'll have to deal with that again.

On another annoying note, as I was trying to get the passenger door to fit more flush with the body, the upper door hinge broke! :o 

This unfortunately was bound to happen as it's been nearly four years since I've built this, and the hinge being brass can only take so much flexing before it snaps. I tried to go the 1:1 route of making the hinges flat like you see in the real cars, but in the future when I do opening doors, I'm going to have to go for sturdiness, and use my tried and true brass round rod.

So you know what?? I've decided to simply epoxy the passenger door shut. I'm at a point where I don't want to re-engineer a hinge all over again, and have this set back that much further. Not to mention it would be nigh impossible to make the same hinge again with the same geometry that the first one had. Frustrating yes, but with this so close to being done, I don't want anymore mishaps with trying to install another hinge with everything all painted and shined up. :blink:

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Ahh that's a shame Bill at least the drivers door still works...?

Yeah, that's no problem there. If I were to start building this today, I would have still done the roof swap (the biggest problem with that kit IMO), but I may have let the opening doors go. One appealing thing I like about this type of car with opening doors is because the car has a wraparound windshield, I like the look of the glass sitting on the "dogleg" of the door jamb.

Call me weird, but I liked to see this as a kid when cars with that type of glass were a lot more numerous on the roads of course than today.

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James, installing the chassis as is would leave the sides of it hanging down too much below the rocker panels. On some 1:1 pics I have of the car particularly a direct side shot, you can see just a teeny bit of the rear floor peaking just under the rocker. Not the entire length of the rockers would you see the chassis sides. 

It bugged me enough that I did some surgery as you've seen here. I'm happy with the way it looks now------trouble is if I do any more '59 Chevy's I'll have to deal with that again.

On another annoying note, as I was trying to get the passenger door to fit more flush with the body, the upper door hinge broke! :o 

This unfortunately was bound to happen as it's been nearly four years since I've built this, and the hinge being brass can only take so much flexing before it snaps. I tried to go the 1:1 route of making the hinges flat like you see in the real cars, but in the future when I do opening doors, I'm going to have to go for sturdiness, and use my tried and true brass round rod.

So you know what?? I've decided to simply epoxy the passenger door shut. I'm at a point where I don't want to re-engineer a hinge all over again, and have this set back that much further. Not to mention it would be nigh impossible to make the same hinge again with the same geometry that the first one had. Frustrating yes, but with this so close to being done, I don't want anymore mishaps with trying to install another hinge with everything all painted and shined up. :blink:

I was curious if you thought maybe the glass had something to do with it. I have had kits that fit well right up until the time you install the glass! I am really enjoying this build, I have both a 59 and a 60 waiting in the wings.

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No, I don't think that was it.

Remember, I molded my own glass, so it was much thinner than what the kit provided. I think it was more with the chassis being built up a bit more, and also a couple interior changes I made contributed to it.

What I did with the interior was try to make it more of a platform style without the extra floor that's in the kit. Test fitting it initially did bring the floor upwards somewhat, but it needed to be shaved down to completely get those sides outta sight. 

If you take a very close look at the box art model, it being painted black notwithstanding, you can see the chassis floor hanging below the rockers. Not sure why Revell let it go this way, but it had to be fixed on mine.

 

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Bill, I'm so glad you resolved that issue! It looks so much better!

If I ever get around to building this kit, I'm going to fix those rockers and do your roof swap right away. No opening doors or trunk for me though, I'm chicken that way! Maybe even glue the hood shut!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great to see a way how to fix that chassis-issue as I have a '59 Impala and a couple of '60 Impala kits waiting to be built / in progress and I need to take care of that problem in all of them too. Your build looks fantastic as always! All of your hard work is really paying off. This will look super nice when finished.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just a few "beauty" shots before I can call this one done and out of my hair! I've been off since Friday, and don't go back to work till Tuesday, so I hope to get it totally done before next weekend. There's some things to put on yet------bumpers, head and taillights, driver's mirror, etc........

I finally got the interior all together, and got the rest of the BMF done save for the very rear of the trunk and its spine up the middle. The car is just sitting as a mock-up for now as the wheels have not been totally snapped into place just yet. There's a couple minor chassis items I want to take care of first before I totally snap them on. Not to mention, I want to paint the remaining three wheels' red rings on to represent the outer diameter of the wheel which would have been showing on the '59's. I may try to detail paint the cross flags on the wheelcovers, but it'll depend on how steady my hands are, and if I can see where the little checkerboards are. ;)

I thought I had the passenger door side hinge problem licked as I was able to solder a new hinge, but as I thought, the dimensions are not quite the same as I had originally, and the door won't open without some severe binding. So, it'll stay closed as there's now epoxy around the inside perimeter of the door.

OK, on to some pics!

P3275549.JPG

P3275548.jpg

P3275550.JPG

P3275551.JPG

Hard to believe that after nearly four years, this gal is about ready to face the world! :D

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Don't forget a dab of flat black on the ends of the tail pipes, Bill.  Looking just wonderful.

Thanks Jim! Yeah, that's one of those "chassis" items I mentioned among other things. I still have Parafilm covering have of the bottom to keep things from getting scratched up (again) till she's permanently on all fours. ;)

Another item that I have to find------I think it's still attached to the chrome sprue is the little fake roof vent. It's one of those things that make a '59 Impala, well a '59. I have another junker kit in case that one got lost. 

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Another item that I have to find------I think it's still attached to the chrome sprue is the little fake roof vent. It's one of those things that make a '59 Impala, well a '59. I have another junker kit in case that one got lost. 

I have a '59/'60 chrome tree I bought to get the detail bits for my '59 Bonneville - you can have the vent if you need it.

-CB

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As my 20 year build of the one I owned sits wanting a finish on the BMF, I've been really enjoying your take on this one. Do give us some input here on this massive chrome trim monster when you finish that off! Those corners on the fins have thrown me.

I'll be hoping to see this at Wayne. :)

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As my 20 year build of the one I owned sits wanting a finish on the BMF, I've been really enjoying your take on this one. Do give us some input here on this massive chrome trim monster when you finish that off! Those corners on the fins have thrown me.

I'll be hoping to see this at Wayne. :)

The fins (particularly the corners) would be done in basically two sections. As you've seen, the sides have been done, then it's just a matter of foiling the rear most sections with other pieces of BMF. On the 1:1 as you can see below, GM used long pieces on the sides, then used wraparound pieces near the corners which went to the deck lid.

IMG_3188.jpg

I extended my BMF to the very corners, and then I'll just use a straight piece to finish up the piece that'll go to the trunk. In this scale, the joints won't be seen much if at all, as I try to burnish everything down to be as seamless as possible. 

If I do have a complaint about this particular sheet of BMF this go round-------it has a stippled look on the model as well as on the sheet itself. No big deal, but the effect is still there somewhat as I try to sand and polish the areas that the BMF will be laying on.

And yes, I'm planning on having this done in time for NNL East! Barring anymore SNAFU's I'll have it done sometime during this week. One issue I might have but I'm not going to fret over it------the bumpers have slight mold lines on 'em. Well, I'll see if I can sand those off lightly, and cover any bare spots with strips of BMF. No time to send stuff out to be plated, not to mention it wouldn't be cost effective just to send out two bumpers when it's better to send out a whole rack.

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Just an amazing thread for this build. I have enjoyed following along From time to time. Really nice model!

I too find the dimpled BMF frustrating and have not found a cure for it yet. I have thought about ironing but I'm not sure of the effect on the adhesive. 

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I too find the dimpled BMF frustrating and have not found a cure for it yet. I have thought about ironing but I'm not sure of the effect on the adhesive. 

Uuuuuuh......No you don't want to iron it! That might make for more trouble than not. ;)

One thing I may get practiced on (again) is using very cheap thin kitchen foil and do my own foiling that way using an adhesive. A while back someone did a tutorial on doing that very thing (Lovefordgalaxy?) and it may be time to go that route if the BMF quality continues to be inconsistent.

BTW, I got my foil straight from Bare Metal Foil Co. out of Michigan through the mail.

It does stick very well, just the entire sheet has that stippled appearance. :(

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I could Jim, but then I'm relying on their "judgement" to determine what they send me is good enough.

The next time I order from them (I still may end up doing my own), and it's like this, I'll probably do just that. I don't know what's happened to them over the years------this used to not be a problem but like everyone else in business these days, it could be that they're trying to get by on other methods (read: cheaper) to get by, and quality is suffering.

Unfortunately, the prices keep going up however. :(

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