blunc Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Are ya gonna torsion spring the trunk or maybe go with gas shock style fulcrum to hold the trunk open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 Are ya gonna torsion spring the trunk or maybe go with gas shock style fulcrum to hold the trunk open? I'm gonna try my hand (again) at making torsion bar springs to keep the decklid open. While it may not be exactly like the 1:1, it'll be realistic enough without looking clunky. I already have a few ideas in mind to try this. The last time I did this was about 10 years ago when building the '64 GTO. That also had a button release for the trunk which latched it shut----------I may attempt the same thing with the Chevy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geno Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Bill, this has really intrigued me. I'm loving seeing this build come together. You do amazing work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragcarz Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 WOW Bill, Thanks for posting this build, Im Inspired..... Are you an old bodyman,or something, only us old guys know what a "tulip panel" is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 You're definitely not taking the easy way out as you get back to building this ... !! It's pure pleasure watching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunc Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 I am looking forward to seeing if your execution on the trunk hinge assembly will come close to the ideas I have for my own builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdcar32 Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Bill,FYI, I used the '57 Black Widow motor. It's injection unit is a good match for a '59 unit. The silver A.C. air cleaner is mounted on the radiator core in a '59. You'll need a lenth of flex conduit to reach it, something like the 427 Thunderbolt Fairlanes used. The stamped steel valve covers from the Widow are right also...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadracer Posted December 10, 2012 Share Posted December 10, 2012 Bill....I enjoy seeing your scratchbuilding skills! It's wonderful viewing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted December 10, 2012 Author Share Posted December 10, 2012 WOW Bill, Thanks for posting this build, Im Inspired..... Are you an old bodyman,or something, only us old guys know what a "tulip panel" is. No, just a fella that grew up around a lot of "car folks" as a kid, and heard those terms spoken of. I'm fortunate that I was exposed to all kinds of cars both foreign and domestic growing up in the '60's and '70's. I had relatives that would come across all kinds of "oddball" cars, not to mention my Mom was dating someone once who I swear had a different car every 3-6 months! Bill, FYI, I used the '57 Black Widow motor. It's injection unit is a good match for a '59 unit. The silver A.C. air cleaner is mounted on the radiator core in a '59. You'll need a lenth of flex conduit to reach it, something like the 427 Thunderbolt Fairlanes used. The stamped steel valve covers from the Widow are right also...... Ahhh!! You read my mind! I was just thinking the other day if that would work and I happen to have that kit! I can scratchbuild the "flex hose" you're talking about as I've done it before on other builds. The only fly in the ointment might be the Fuelie scripts that go on the front fenders. They look similar to a '57 'Vette's scripts. Thanks for the confirmation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Hamilton Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 No, just a fella that grew up around a lot of "car folks" as a kid, and heard those terms spoken of. I'm fortunate that I was exposed to all kinds of cars both foreign and domestic growing up in the '60's and '70's. I had relatives that would come across all kinds of "oddball" cars, not to mention my Mom was dating someone once who I swear had a different car every 3-6 months! Ahhh!! You read my mind! I was just thinking the other day if that would work and I happen to have that kit! I can scratchbuild the "flex hose" you're talking about as I've done it before on other builds. The only fly in the ointment might be the Fuelie scripts that go on the front fenders. They look similar to a '57 'Vette's scripts. Thanks for the confirmation! I could tell you how to do those scripts, but then I would have to kill you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CAL Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 just photo etch them up.... not that hard to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony T Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Great work there, Bill!! Thanks for letting us follow along...very inspiring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdcar32 Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 No, just a fella that grew up around a lot of "car folks" as a kid, and heard those terms spoken of. I'm fortunate that I was exposed to all kinds of cars both foreign and domestic growing up in the '60's and '70's. I had relatives that would come across all kinds of "oddball" cars, not to mention my Mom was dating someone once who I swear had a different car every 3-6 months! I can scratchbuild the "flex hose" you're talking about as I've done it before on other builds. The only fly in the ointment might be the Fuelie scripts that go on the front fenders. They look similar to a '57 'Vette's scripts. Thanks for the confirmation! I made my scripts using the Widow fuelie decals and some sheet styrene molded into the front fender between the headlight and wheel well. But the script sets for the solid axle vettes ( and the '60 Impala I think? ) have better fuelie scripts that should work well. You can find some referance photos online with a little research. There are a couple of red fuelie Impala convertibles and a Bel Air sedan that I found.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
H.A.K Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Man u doing alot to that car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IMPALA SS 427 Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 This is insane, you have put so much time into this and your attention to detail is incredible, the final product will look amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Hamilton Posted December 13, 2012 Share Posted December 13, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted December 16, 2012 Author Share Posted December 16, 2012 Got some progress done in the last couple days. I finally bit the bullet and decided to mount those hinges and then see how the trunk would fit on them. So far things look good, and now it's a matter of "latching" and springing the hinges for the final result. As far as latching, I'm considering going the magnet route, as this will make for fewer moving parts as far as a release mechanism is concerned. And as far as keeping the trunk open, I'm going to use a tiny piece of guitar string that will be connected somewhere on the inside of the body, and then connected to the hinge so that there's a spring effect. Now on to a few pics! I mentioned in another post that I'd like to reduce the radii of the hinges. They seemed a bit too out of bounds for me, and also-----I didn't want them to appear too toy/diecast like. Here are the hinges in the up position after they were fastened on the block supports............... Like the doors, the trunk has the same type of hinge retainers. I still need to soften the edges of the retainers a bit so they don't appear quite so blunt. The trunk is staying up BTW due to friction------after they're painted and whatnot, they're not going to stay up. So far the trunk is sitting flush with the rear deck as it should.............. I soldered on a very tiny collar on the left rear hinge-------this will be where part of the guitar string will go. Not exactly like the 1:1, but some concessions need to be made due to what I'm working with! Well, that's it for now............thanks again for tuning in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted December 16, 2012 Author Share Posted December 16, 2012 Hey Ron, thanks for that pic! Interesting little emblems ahead of the Fuelie scripts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 Oh, Wow! You just never disappoint, Bill! Great build. Thanks for taking us along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragcarz Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 Hi Bill....Just a question, Keep in mind I dont build anything near the calibur of your builds and have never hinged anything, Is there a reason the brass hinge cannot be attached directly to the trunk inner structure, or notches made in the inner structure for the hinges to recess into? The brass hinge seems thin enough to look to accurate in scale,....or are the channels you slid the hinges into just temporary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted December 17, 2012 Author Share Posted December 17, 2012 Is there a reason the brass hinge cannot be attached directly to the trunk inner structure, or notches made in the inner structure for the hinges to recess into? The brass hinge seems thin enough to look to accurate in scale,....or are the channels you slid the hinges into just temporary? The channels I made are part of the structure for the hinges. I don't trust simply epoxying brass on to plastic------over time with the stress of opening and closing the trunk lid, the hinge will work loose from a simple surface mount onto the the trunk structure. I like positive-sturdy locations whenever I'm hinging something. Be it doors, trunks, or some other opening panels. Those channels will get thinned down a touch to get rid of some of the squareness of them. After the trunk is painted and polished, the hinges will get epoxied inside those channels, and since I'm doing a test fit job way ahead of time before painting, there should be no surprises when it comes down to final assembly. Thanks for asking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny1973 Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 Bill as always your work is unbelievable.its always nice to watch your builts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragcarz Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 Bill, Thanks for clear explanation, I'm trying to learn some new skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dominik Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I am always amazed Bill. Fantastic work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalCarCulture Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Bill - here's some pics I took about 10 years ago of a '59 Fuelie, maybe they will help with detailing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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