camaroman Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Mackinac, Let me start out by saying I love your section of MCM. Your work amazes me. Enough brown-nosing. My question(s) is this. IYHO, is the AMT Peterbilt 359 a good kit? I have an unopened kit dated 2002 that I plan on building along with the lowboy trailer and John Deere backhoe/loader for an uncle that is retired from the heavy construction business. Are this kits OK, generally speaking or are there kits more accurate that I should look for. I know I want to use the tractor/backhoe. I have not built a semi truck since the seventh grade (30 years ago). I helped a friend build a Movin" On KW for a sick friend. I mainly did the paint back then, so I am in unfamilar waters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mackinac359 Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Thanks for the brown nosing! The AMT Peterbilt 359 is the SAME kit from 1975. It is full of little niggly flaws that will slow you down a bit. This wasn't one of AMT's better kits for fit. Test fit the cab/hood/sleeper mounting to make sure that all parts line up and sit on the chassis straight. Same for the exhaust piping from the engine to the mufflers. The rear axles need to be double-checked for equal height all the way around. I build the frame and put a set of tires all the way around on it (temporarily) to make sure all axles are straight, in line, and tires touching the ground. The underside of the cab roof has 2 big round mold marks that interfere with the glass-tub from going all the way up into the cab. This then prevents the interior from going all the way up into the cab. Remove the round obstructions and the glass fits better. For the roof lights, horns and air conditioner, I don't use the mounting tabs or open the holes in the roof. I cut off the mounting tabs and mount the componants 'free hand' so that the parts fit better. On the air horns there are nast mold seams and depressions on the front. I always fill the holes with filler (thick superglue) then sand smooth and cover with Bare Metal Foil (chrome). In the mirrors, I cut off the round loops at the ends of the V shaped brackets, I also cut off the verticle tabs on the mirror head brackets, then mount the mirrors to the V shaped brackets. This gives a cleaner more realistic appearance to the mirrors. Color information: In the 70's most all Peterbilt engines (no matter what brand) were white. Tranny should be black or rust red. Interior: Dash top: matte black. Dash face: Walnut woodgrain. Seats, doors, etc: Oxblood red, medium blue, dark olive green, black. Floors could match in color, or black for rubber. Seat bases would be matte black. Steering wheel would be off-white/beige. Body Colors: Standard: On color body and chassis with white wheels. Optional: ANYTHING goes. Whatever the customer wanted. Check out www.timstrucks.com then click on the Peterbilt links for paint job ideas. I use this kit for the base for many conversions and trucks. If you have more questions, just post! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camaroman Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 Thanks for the info, Tim!! This will be very helpful when I get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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