Fairmont drag car build - Strut repair & setting on four tires! 5/25/15

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I’m going to try my hand at something I’ve never succeeded at before – build a car online from start to finish. This is a huge challenge because it’s been ages since I even finished a build, let alone let anyone track my progress over an extended period of time. LOL I'll do my best to document as I go. My goal is to build a drag car that will be based off my Fairmont body and the floor pan I’ve been working on. Notice I didn’t say it'll be a Pro Stock build. I’m undecided which hood I will use. In actuality, I have a preference for the outlaw cowl hood over the pro stock hood, so I guess I’ll see what direction I end up going... Regardless of the hood, this will not be a purely vintage build, because it will set lower in the rear than cars of that era, will undoubtedly have modern-design wheelie bars, and I may run 16” wheels of a newer vintage and larger OD slicks out back. The engine will probably be a stroker Cleveland with a Lenco. I'll start off with the basic pieces for the body and what it looks like after some basic cleanup work. More to come...

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Edited by futurattraction

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Scott... This is going to be an awesome build my friend. I am looking forward to following along with this project and can't wait to see updated already.

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scott, no matter how you build it, make sure you have fun doing it! can't wait to see what it evolves into.

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A WONDERFUL-WONDERFUL PROJECT-WHO'S RESIN KIT IS THAT?

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Can not wait to see this build.

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looking forward to this Scott, looks like it will be a fun project!

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Very interesting. I for one will be watching. Good luck with your project.

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Looking good Scott! Wonder if I will get any notifications of posts to this thread.

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Looking forward to it Scott....

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Nice to see you doing a build Scott, can't wait to see what you come up with. That is a great looking body.

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Thanks Chris – it ought to be an interesting journey.

Hey Dave – I’ll do my best to keep it fun and interesting.

Marty – I’m hoping it’ll turn out to be as wonderful as you’re saying. To answer your question, I developed the resin body kit I’m using. It’s been an eternity getting to this point.

Jim – I can’t wait to see it too! LOL

Bill – thanks for following along.

Thanks Ray – I may need all the luck you can send me!

Hi Len – I guess you’ll just have to keep tabs on me.

Tyrone – thanks for popping in. I’ll do my best to keep things moving along.

Hey Joe – thanks for your support. I guess we’ll see where this thing goes, together…

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I , too , am looking forward to watching this gauntlet-of-a-project come together .!

That's one great looking finish cast you've accomplished there ; and , all of those extras are gorgeous ( is that a strip of translucent ambre I see there , for replicating the on-again/off-again ambre turn signals ?!? LOVE IT ! ) .

I'd like to see a streetable build of this gem ... vintage Pro Stock scoop with a 351W / C4 / 9" combo , *stock* interior , and other vintage pieces .

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After 10 years of design work for others to enjoy glad to see you gonna build one. I'll be watching can't wait to see what you do with it.

Cheers

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Thanks for your kind words, John. You've got a good eye! I am casting strips of orange/clear for turn signal/parking lenses. My goal is to also do a factory stock body that will have all the "drag" stuff removed. Rear wheel well openings shortened back to stock length, fuel filler door added, cowl vent panel added, stock length hood, blended bumpers removed and stock width, removable bumpers included. I've done some work on interior side panels and Mustang chassis for that one, but it's got a fair ways to go.

Vince - Don't exaggerate the length of time this has taken... LOL It's only been seven years!!! Still way too long for everybody - me included... :)

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I will be following this one for sure, I think I will build mine as a modern quarter mile bruiser maybe turbos.

Edited by nascarfan

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]

I am casting strips of orange/clear for turn signal/parking lenses.

That's cool ! Good call on that ; something that's lacking with most --if not all-- resin transkits , etc .I didn't know that translucent-casting was *possible* (not that I'm questioning your skills and abilities) . I'm particularly interested in this , as I've been propositioned by Missing Link to master a rear bumper for a 1972 Road Runner (my suggestion ; Link's "challenge" for me to master my proposal :D ) based upon the Monogram 24th scale '71 GTX , ostensibly for a conversion to a '72 model . This'll be my first attempt as such an undertaking !

Never-the-less , I want to master the tail lamp lenses as well , as separate parts . My goal is to have them cast in clear resin (or whatever material) , so that they can be painted red , while being able to keep the backup portion in clear (silver or white painted lamps just don't cut it in my opinion ...) .

I'm also considering making the "universal" 1972 & later Chrysler side marker lamp lenses ; and knowing that ambre , red , etc. , casting are proven possible , just makes that potential project *that* much more appealing B) .

My goal is to also do a factory stock body that will have all the "drag" stuff removed. Rear wheel well openings shortened back to stock length, fuel filler door added, cowl vent panel added, stock length hood, blended bumpers removed and stock width, removable bumpers included. I've done some work on interior side panels and Mustang chassis for that one, but it's got a fair ways to go.

A stock version would be much welcomed !

:)

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Thanks for your support guys. I very much appreciate it...

John, as far as lens casting goes, it hasn't been as difficult as I originally expected, but it's still more involved than standard casting. I'm using Alumilite products at this point. The clear is mixed 1:1, though I had some problems with it, at times, having a milky, opaque appearance, especially with the red taillight lenses. They weren't as translucent as they should have been. They are considerably thicker, too, than the parking light strip and headlight lenses. I called Alumilite and talked to Carol. She suggested that I cut down on the "A" component. The "B" component has a tendancy to congeal and doesn't mix as easily. Heating the bottle of "B" in warm water helps thin it. I use a digital scale for measuring everything out and a microwave oven to heat the two parts for a few seconds before mixing and pouring. Mixing thoroughly helped some with the milkiness, though it still sometimes shows up. Warming up the molds was recommended and I'm using a small toaster oven to do that. I heat the molds for five minutes before pouring. I pressurize at least overnight, but usually usually longer and don't demold for at least 10 hours after pouring. I pre-mix enough of the colored dyes with the "A" side that I can get several pours out of a batch, plus the color is consistent from one set to the next.There are probably other points I'm forgetting about, but you can see the general process I follow. Hopes this helps...

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Where do I go to get one of these bodies? Do they have web site? Thanks.

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custompainter - If you want to PM me, I can get more info to you about getting one.

Another component of my build will be the chassis pan, which started life as a Revell pro sportsman piece. The forward half is modified to fit the interior body shape, and incorporates a slot where the dash rests. The floor itself is narrower than the Revell pan. Outer frame rail tubing and rocker panel detail were added which also permits a slight channeling of the body over the frame, all of which can be seen in the side-by-side comparison with the stock pan. The rear of the pan required more rework. The stock pan has a sizeable bulkhead between the tubs that is raised about an 1/8th inch above the tubs. The entire bulkhead was removed and new flooring from the 4-link kick-up to the trunk floor added. Frame rail detail was added on the underside in the area of the rear end housing. The pan also has incorporated into it guides for the photo etch 4-link chassis brackets. I've begun work on the center portion of the frame rail. I have yet to add the X in the middle and am debating whether to add stringers under the driver's seat area. Yes - my frame work resembles the Revell frame, but is lacking all the molded-in brake line tubing, etc., in case someone wants to add their own lines. The MC also needs to be added. I want to do it in the cleanest way possible while incorporating it into the new frame, similar to the Revell piece.

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Edited by futurattraction

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Posted · Report post

Looking awesome so far Scott...

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Thanks Tyrone. Maybe the next time I build one of these, I'll get brave and do a full tube chassis like you're doing now. That'd be something, but it'd be a another huge step for me... LOL

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Scott.... you are of to a good start and its looking good so far.

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scott, i am amazed at the amount of dedication you have to "doing things right". rushing and hurrying will only lead to doing it over. great workmanship too!!!!!

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Nice Clean work Scott. I like were your taking this.

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Dave - Thanks for your kind words. Given the quality of work you do, that is high praise...

Joe - I appreciate your support. I think it can be a pretty cool build if I just stay on-task... LOL

Do any of you guys who (may) have first-hand knowledge of chassis construction have any idea if a pro stock car of 1980-ish vintage would have had extra tubing under the driver side seat for mounts to attach to? It goes without saying that I've never been under any of Glidden's cars, so wish I had construction photos from way back then... Thanks for any insights you may have.

Edited by futurattraction

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