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Custom Mike

1950 Chevy Pickup - A Detail Freak's Dream Truck!

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I'm really diggin this build. Nice details.

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Getting better and better. I never said the bed bolts would cheap or easy. That's probably why I've never tried it. They do look good though.

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With all this extreme work I can't believe you left the door handles alone. :lol: Just kidding. This is very impressive what you have done so far. Wow!

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With all this superb detail goin' on, I'm afraid we just can't let you slide on the bed bolts :lol: . The good news is that they are carriage bolts (dome shaped heads), so any .5mm simulated rivets will work. Scale Hardware has them in a variety of finishes with a nice long shank, which makes handling easier. In fact, they very much resemble the straight pins that you're so fond of , only smaller :P . The bad news is they're $10-$13 for a bag of 100, depending on finish.

Here's a shot of what they look like installed:

IMG_1124.jpg

Edited by Shardik

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With all this extreme work I can't believe you left the door handles alone. :lol: Just kidding. This is very impressive what you have done so far. Wow!

Dang it! I knew I forgot something! I always forget to drill out the door handles, somebody remind me next time! :D

With all this superb detail goin' on, I'm afraid we just can't let you slide on the bed bolts :lol: . The good news is that they are carriage bolts (dome shaped heads), so any .5mm simulated rivets will work. Scale Hardware has them in a variety of finishes with a nice long shank, which makes handling easier. In fact, they very much resemble the straight pins that you're so fond of , only smaller :P . The bad news is they're $10-$13 for a bag of 100, depending on finish.

Here's a shot of what they look like installed:

IMG_1124.jpg

Johann, those look great, but money is tight these days, so I'll go without 'em for this one. Hey, for my first wooden bed, I'm happy! Maybe I can find something around here I can use to simulate those, because I could use a pin-type piece instead of those tiny PE bolt heads for sure!

Edited by Custom Mike

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Now onto a bit of suspension work. I'm bouncing around a bit, but hey, I'm weird, you should know this by now! The kit axle melted on me after being glued, so I cut the rim attachments off. I drilled out the pumpkin, cut a piece of aluminum tubing to the proper size, and drilled some holes in it for the leaf springs. I slid the tubing through the pumpkin, epoxied the leaf springs to the new "axle", and slid my rim attachments into the ends. Now I have a new back axle!

The new back axle, I'm thinking about repainting all of the suspension and frame Black, what do ya think?
50ChevyPU064-vi.jpg

50ChevyPU065-vi.jpg

And the frame and suspension mocked-up. I'm just not feeling the Silver anymore...
50ChevyPU066-vi.jpg

A hole drilled in the frame for routing the brake line to the rear axle...
50ChevyPU102-vi.jpg

And a hole drilled in the battery box so I can get the positive side out and up to the starter.
50ChevyPU103-vi.jpg

Now onto the brake lines for the back axle. I started out by shaping a piece of sprue for my line junction, I'm getting better at making these little boogers!

50ChevyPU104-vi.jpg

Two holes drilled on the axle side...
50ChevyPU105-vi.jpg

And the block mocked-up with the line from the master cylinder side. BTW, this kit does not have a master cylinder, either that, or it got lost when this kit was removed from it's box and put in the one-gallon Ziploc bag I bought it in. Heck, I don't even have the instructions, so who knows if what I'm doing is actually correct!
50ChevyPU107-vi.jpg

And the two lines mocked-up out to the rim area, so far, so good!
50ChevyPU108-vi.jpg

50ChevyPU111-vi.jpg

Edited by Custom Mike

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Hi Mike, I think you do some of your best detail work when you start out thinking it's going to be a quick build :D :D

The red looks great!

Randy

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I agree Randy, what started out as a quick box-stock build blew up on me, and I couldn't be happier. I never plan on builds like this, I think it's better to just let it happen when the mood strikes!

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... And the two lines mocked-up out to the rim area, so far, so good!

50ChevyPU108-vi.jpg

Love the details so far, especially the shrink tubing on the tailgate chain (waiting for pic)

On the assumption that you are going for accuracy, the rear brake lines need to have a flexible hose between the chassis and axle. the usual method is to run a single line rearward and mount it firmly to the chassis close to the axle. Then run a flex hose to a junction block moiunted on the axle. Rigid lines go from the junction block along the axle tubes to each wheel cylinder.

example: (you may remember this one Mike)

IMG_2088c.jpg?psid=1

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I like it so far. I saw that paint the other day, did you have to do anything other than prime and base with it?

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I like it so far. I saw that paint the other day, did you have to do anything other than prime and base with it?

James. I used a base coat of Dupli-Color Ultra Silver, but I don't think it's necessary, I just wanted a bit more "pop" to the Red. For primer, I used my old standby, Dupli-Color Primer/Sealer

Love the details so far, especially the shrink tubing on the tailgate chain (waiting for pic)

On the assumption that you are going for accuracy, the rear brake lines need to have a flexible hose between the chassis and axle. the usual method is to run a single line rearward and mount it firmly to the chassis close to the axle. Then run a flex hose to a junction block moiunted on the axle. Rigid lines go from the junction block along the axle tubes to each wheel cylinder.

Alyn, you're gonna make me get accurate now, aren't ya buddy? And after I made that pretty block too, man, you're mean to me! :lol: OK, I'll redo the brake lines just for you, but just this once, next time I get to do 'em in a way that is completely unreal! :D

Edited by Custom Mike

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Now here's where I make Pete ( A good friend of mine over on Scale Avenue) happy, I show the seat back he sent me being put to good use...after some hacking on it!

First up tonight, a skull shifter knob! I picked this up from Scale Repro's Plus, along with a 6-cylinder distributor for this build. I hacked off the T shift knob, added a small piece of 24 gauge wire to the skull, and drilled a hole in the shifter. A dab of superglue, and it's ready to go!

50ChevyPU112-vi.jpg

50ChevyPU114-vi.jpg

Now onto the seat, I really worked hard for this part, believe me! I took some tan leather I got from a friend years ago, and started thinning it for use on the bench seat. This is where Pete came to my rescue, supplying me with a second seat back.
50ChevyPU125-vi.jpg

Elmer's Craft Bond, thinned leather, and the seat base, all ready for some work!
50ChevyPU126-vi.jpg

And the seat back Pete sent me, with it's piece of leather, waiting for it's turn!
50ChevyPU127-vi.jpg

Now the hacking on the seat back happens. To get the leather on the seat back, the arms had to be removed, which is why I needed a second seat back. I carefully removed the arms from the seat back I got with the kit so they could be re-used, then sanded the arms off of the seat back Pete sent me. I wrapped the newly bare seat back in leather, drilled two holes in each arm (And the sides of the seat back), added a pair of straight pins to each arm, and we have a leather covered seat back! I'll put some Detail Master Krome Foil on the arms later, this is just for mock-up purposes, and thanks again Pete!

50ChevyPU128-vi.jpg

50ChevyPU129-vi.jpg

50ChevyPU130-vi.jpg

50ChevyPU131-vi.jpg

Nothing simulates leather better than real leather!
50ChevyPU132-vi.jpg

Edited by Custom Mike

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And three coats of VHT Engine paint, color name is Red Fire!

50ChevyPU056-vi.jpg

Nice project and work so far Mike! Something you may want to consider is installing the filler panel at the bottom rear of the cab, smooth it and repaint it. It's not a seperate piece on the real truck. I don't know why AMT engineered this kit like that. It may have to do with the interior going inside the cab. IMO, the joint at the bottom of the cab ruins the look of this kit.

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Cool looking seat. The leather has a small enough grain to look right in scale. Even the color looks good; like something you've seen a hundred times on old truck seats.

Keep it coming.

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Hi Mike,

I'm with Alyn, love the seat!!!

Randy

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Thanks guys, I worked my arm off thinning that leather for this, I was happy it looked in scale when I finally got it done!

Nice project and work so far Mike! Something you may want to consider is installing the filler panel at the bottom rear of the cab, smooth it and repaint it. It's not a seperate piece on the real truck. I don't know why AMT engineered this kit like that. It may have to do with the interior going inside the cab. IMO, the joint at the bottom of the cab ruins the look of this kit.

Roger, I've found that they made it a separate piece just for the reason you started, it allows the interior bucket to get in the cab. Mine fits nicely, but I'll check it again just to be safe!

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Thanks guys, I worked my arm off thinning that leather for this, I was happy it looked in scale when I finally got it done!

Roger, I've found that they made it a separate piece just for the reason you started, it allows the interior bucket to get in the cab. Mine fits nicely, but I'll check it again just to be safe!

Having built three of these I've found that I can install the lower filler panel before paint and still manoeuver the interior to fit. If you decide to do this and repaint it, it would be a good time to shave the door handles. (Just a reminder) Your attention to detail is top notch! Oh and the key to installing the interior this way is not to install the fire wall untill after the interior is installed. Edited by rmvw guy

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Nice looking truck...I like the bed work you did.

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Ron, thanks for that info, if I get the chance tomorrow night, I'll see how well mine fits, and go from there. I've only used filler on the dash so far on this one, the filler pieces for the front and rear fenders were just glued in place and sanded smooth, maybe I can pull the same stunt with that piece too!

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Since I'm too freakin' tired to work on this tonight, I'll just post a pair of pics of the bed mocked -up. The straight pins were glued in place and the fenders were glued to the sides of the bed, then it was all slapped together for a few pics, enjoy!

50ChevyPU123-vi.jpg

50ChevyPU124-vi.jpg

Edited by Custom Mike

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MIke, my friend, that bed is spectacular. Other than adding carriage bolts to the bed strips, I don't how you could improve on it. The color of the wood is perfect Everything just works so well together.

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Alyn, I'm still trying to find something on the cheap for the bolts, now I'm obsessed with adding them to it!

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How about rivets from Tichy Train or Grandt LIne ?

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