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67 coronet body corrections

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Posted · Report post

has anyone tried to correct the downward slope of the rear of the car? if you look at the body from the side, you can see that at the rear roof pillar, the body droops. any help on correcting this would be wonderful.

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Posted · Report post

WOW! Had to Google some images to check that out. Was that ever noted in any reviews when it came out.Short of cutting it apart and moving it around don't know. How do they do this when there is plenty of reference material around to avoid it?

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Posted · Report post

Yeah, that's another one of those kits that I could tell wasn't quite right the moment I saw the box art. I haven't tried to change this with the kit I have, but some years ago, I won on eBay a started project where someone tried to correct this.

What he did is take the old MPC kit of the '67 Charger, and add the rear wheelwells and trunk from the Revell kit. He also changed the C pillars somewhat by using the crown of the roof off the Charger, but making new pillars from sheet plastic. That roof BTW, to my eyes is not as accurate as it could be from Revell, as the rear part of the roof is too flat--------and doesn't have the subtle crown at the top of the backlite that the 1:1 had.

If I can dig this started project out of the stash I have over the weekend, I can show you what he did. Of course, I'd have to clean things up a bit if I ever decide to finish what he started. But yeah, the rear end of the Revell Coronet is way too droopy and saggy to represent the 1:1. I suppose one could take their Charger and fix it that way, but you still have that too flat roof to deal with................ :blink:

Mike as far as I know, no one has ever pointed this out in their reviews but I could be wrong.

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Posted · Report post

thanks guys for your responses. Mr Obsessive, i would love to see that coronet. never thought of correcting it with the charger kit.

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Posted · Report post

Thatnks for all the info. Even being a Mopar guy, I can say something didn't look right to me, but couldn't tell just what. I would love to see your pics Mr Obsessive. I have some plans for one, though modified, but this would definately make it look better.

Mike

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Posted · Report post

Here's a series of pics to show what I'm talking about..............I almost couldn't find this one..............it was buried under a TALL stack of models! :D

The eBay win model.................

P9074438.jpg

P9074439.jpg

P9074442.jpg

P9074444.jpg

And now the Revell model..............

P9074448.jpg

P9074449.jpg

P9074450.JPG

The two together for comparison............

P9074439.jpg

P9074453.jpg

Anyway, just a little comparison to show that sometimes the "Big Companies" don't always get things right. Thing is though. we'll probably never see this corrected-----witness the two times Revell missed the mark on the much wanted CORRECT '70 'Cuda.. :(

Hmmm...............that eBay win Coronet has the wheels in my head turning...........maybe a future project?? It sure could use some rescuing which is why I wanted to win it years ago.

Hmmmmm.......................... ;)

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Posted · Report post

thanks for the pictures. you can really see the slope in the rear of the revell body. i was going to let this slide on my builds but everytime i look at that kit, i see that droopy rear end. i am going to take your pictures and see if i cant come up with a way to correct the problem. didnt realize the work to be done to the roofline.

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Posted · Report post

Never knew this problem existed with the Revell kit...guess I won't be picking one of these up, thanks for the heads-up guys!

This must be one of the reasons the Danbury Mint 1/24 goes for so much...

$T2eC16Z,!ysE9sy0i2JlBQQ5(j)feQ~~60_57.JPG

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Posted (edited) · Report post

P9074439.jpg

The roof on this looks way off. Too high and too short. It needs a good three to four inch chop to look right.

To correct the Revell body, I would first try adding a mm+ to the top of the quarters at the rear and taking away a mm+ where the quarters and C pillars meet. It looks like it has a little too much rise in that area anyway. Of course,you would need to also adjust the character line just below it to make it match. That may or may not be enough to "fool" the eye and make it look like it doesn't have too much droop in the rear. If that doesn't work, time get out the razor saw and do a lot of hacking and whacking. I have a kit with a primered body that I got in a trade. I may see what I can do with it.

EDIT: After looking at some photos, there's no way that idea would work! Time to get the saw out! I'm going to take a little time with one just to see what I can do with it. It will certainly be a challenge!

Edited by plowboy

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Posted · Report post

The 67 plymouth is not quite the same as a 67 Dodge. Though, now you have my wheels turning. I have to pull out my my GTX and compare the bodies.

Mike

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Posted · Report post

I've began correcting this body,but so far, it's taking longer to take the photos and download onto Photobucket than it is to do the actual work. So far, what I'm doing is working.

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Posted · Report post

I've began correcting this body,but so far, it's taking longer to take the photos and download onto Photobucket than it is to do the actual work. So far, what I'm doing is working.

as stated earlier. i may get an old revell 66 charger and try to swap the quarters with the 67 R/T. maybe cut at the doors and to the top of the quarters all the way around and them mate the 2 together.

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Posted · Report post

I have my body pretty much done as far as the cutting/moving/adding material and getting it glued back together. All that's left now is putty and sanding work to get the mid character line straight again. I took a lot of photos of the process,but Photobucket doesn't want to cooperate for some reason today.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

The roof on this looks way off. Too high and too short. It needs a good three to four inch chop to look right.

Yeah Roger, looking at the pics of the 1:1------- the version I won off the 'Bay does sit a scooch too high. Although the fellow that originally attempted this was no where finished----------he was heading in the right direction.

I would have gone for the conversion as you described, but the one thing that still bugs me about the Revell body is the roof is too flat in the upper part of the backlite. It's no big deal in the grand scheme of things, but it's one of those "signature" styling cues that somehow always gets missed------even with diecasts I have seen.

BTW, if you're having trouble posting pics with Photobucket, you might want to give Gmail blogs a try. It's where I've been linking my pics from whenever I make a new post about my '59 Chevy I'm working on. I've had no hassle with it, and best of all---------it's free! :D

Edit: Actually, the pic service is Picasa powered by Google. As I mentioned, very good service and you can't beat free!

Edited by MrObsessive

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Posted · Report post

Something else I'll need to do if I decide to tackle this one in an upcoming project---------replicate the roof pillar creases that are prominent on the 1:1, as well as depicted on Revell's version.

Don't know how I'm going to accomplish that............although I may swap the roof pillars out of the Revell body and put them on the MPC car along with the appropriate roof lowering. ;)

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Posted · Report post

I got my body in primer last night. Something else that needs work on this kit is the rear bumper. It doesn't fit well at all and it doesn't have anything to do with the mods I did. The ends of the bumper should extend upwards farther at the top to snug into the body and should be more of a square shape at the the top corner where it meets the body. It also looks a tad short in overall height. Something else I noticed while looking at photos of the real cars was that every example of the R/T had bumper guards on them. Something else I need to do some more research on is the character line above the rear fenderwell. It looks like it has too much of a swag in it in my eyes.

Here's a photo of mine now in primer. The primer is rough because I applied it in mist coats to prevent ghosting. The passenger side still ghosted in one area, but for the majority of it, no ghost lines at all. I don't know what kind of primer was on this beforehand,but it was awful! I've had this project (got it in a trade) for well over a year and it almost immediately clogged up my sandpaper when I sanded it with 400 grit. If there is enough interest in the process I used, I'll do a tutorial in the tips and tricks section. I took several photos and covered each step.

67Coronetinprimer-1.jpg

67Coronetinprimer.jpg

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Posted · Report post

If there is enough interest in the process I used, I'll do a tutorial in the tips and tricks section. I took several photos and covered each step.

put the putty and sandpaper down and start typing

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Posted · Report post

put the putty and sandpaper down and start typing

:lol: Before I do, I want to check to see how the interior will fit. It should be OK, but I want to make sure first. It may take me a while to do also because I'm having trouble posting sometimes. Right now, I'm using a different browser and everything seems to be working. Plus, I think there are around twenty photos of the process. I need to cut that number down some if possible.

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Posted · Report post

Was that ever noted in any reviews when it came out.

I remember a reviewer in SAE saying something along the lines of "this author perceived quite a few inaccuracies in the body", but I don't remember him going into any detail as to what those inaccuracies were.

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Posted · Report post

I got my body in primer last night. Something else that needs work on this kit is the rear bumper. It doesn't fit well at all and it doesn't have anything to do with the mods I did. The ends of the bumper should extend upwards farther at the top to snug into the body and should be more of a square shape at the the top corner where it meets the body. It also looks a tad short in overall height. Something else I noticed while looking at photos of the real cars was that every example of the R/T had bumper guards on them. Something else I need to do some more research on is the character line above the rear fenderwell. It looks like it has too much of a swag in it in my eyes.

Here's a photo of mine now in primer. The primer is rough because I applied it in mist coats to prevent ghosting. The passenger side still ghosted in one area, but for the majority of it, no ghost lines at all. I don't know what kind of primer was on this beforehand,but it was awful! I've had this project (got it in a trade) for well over a year and it almost immediately clogged up my sandpaper when I sanded it with 400 grit. If there is enough interest in the process I used, I'll do a tutorial in the tips and tricks section. I took several photos and covered each step.

boy, would really appreciate the pictures. how long would you say it took to correct the body? yours looks 100% better than the origional.really appreciate all you did.

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Posted · Report post

boy, would really appreciate the pictures. how long would you say it took to correct the body? yours looks 100% better than the origional.really appreciate all you did.

I really couldn't give you an accurate amount of time it took me to do it. I started on it late morning and had it in primer by around 10:00-10:30 that night. Half or more of that time was spent taking photos and getting them upoaded onto Photobucket. I'm having a lot of trouble posting here for some reason. I may do the tutorial on another site and just post a link to it. I'll try here,but if it doesn't work,I'll put it somewhere else.

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Posted · Report post

That body looks super excellent with the work you did! Much, MUCH better than Revell's effort!

I wouldn't worry too much about the lower character line. That might involve moving the "vents" higher on the sides------might be a bit more trouble than it's worth. Yeah, when you get a chance, I'd like to see the work involved also! I'll definitely save the pics. ;)

You might want to give Fotki a try...........they have free memberships, but I can't remember what the limit is on uploading/linking photos.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

If I may. Is it not conceivable that even though a model kit is not 100 percent accurate to the actual car, that it might even look better? Perhaps not in this case..but the shape looks pretty badass to my eyes accurate or not. Ask yourself..if somebody got some oddball mis-shaped coronet from the factory, and this coronet did not look like every other coronet but still pretty cool. And this person offered it to you cheap or even free, would you accept it, or continue driving your honda civic or whatever you drive? If I build a model and the designers added something that looks rediculous or just doesn't look right, I remove it. Just because a car came from the factory a certain way does not mean that it cannot be made better. I can think of alot of things to make a gremlin better looking.

Edited by sak

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Posted · Report post

This is a side shot of the Highway 61 '67 Coronet in 1/18. I have one of every color of this release. It always looked a little funny to me.

post-4110-0-62526000-1380809109_thumb.jp

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