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WIP: 66 Nova Pro Mod (some more scratchbuilding!)


Stingray69

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I think there might have to be a new section on the message board possibly

"Beware Master piece in progress"

or

"prepare to be amazed"

or

"Hope you have plenty of memory to save the pics"

Or maybe

"throw your hands in the air it's time to give up"

Hey Tommy what are the diameters of the brass tube you are using?

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I think there might have to be a new section on the message board possibly

"Beware Master piece in progress"

or

"prepare to be amazed"

or

"Hope you have plenty of memory to save the pics"

Or maybe

"throw your hands in the air it's time to give up"

Hey Tommy what are the diameters of the brass tube you are using?

Thanks man!

For the brass I'm using 1/16" tube for the main portions and then for the bracing I'm using 3/64". When you scale it up its the closest to the real thing. All modern drag cars use 1 5/8" for the main portions of there frame. When you scale up 1/16" will equal 1 1/2"

Yes I'm picky :)

Heres a small tutorial I made on how I solder brass. I know theres other ways but this mine.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2577#2577

I'll have some updates later tomorrow or monday!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well here's the latest! I added some brackets for the four links on the back... they are scratched out of brass. I washed the frame so thats why there is water drops in a few spots :)

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The rear end I got not too long ago... its a peice from Top End Miniatures.

The four links were scratched from aluminum tubing and metal rod. I'm getting some rod ends from a small company call RB Motion.. they will attach to the end of the four links and hook up to the brackets on the frame.

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I wanted to lay a thin coat primer on the frame.. here are some pics of that.

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If I need to add more bars the primer is thin enough to peel off so soldering more on isn't problem.

I'm getting some sheet brass this week so I can do the tubs, door panels, firewall, floor, etc...

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Tommy, that is simply AWESOME!!

One question though..........What type of solder do you use to keep the joint from remelting when an adjacent joint is soldered?

I train folks at work in soldering.............are you using different temp solders? If so, can you give me the temp degree of solder(s) your using? I use a Metcal unit at home (also at work) and in the past at work we have used a type of "Eutectic" solder which may be what you're using to have the joints from remelting.

Any help would be appreciated!

Keep up the awesome work!!

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Thanks all!

Bill I'm using standard Rosin Core solder I got at hobby shop... nothing special about it... I rarely if ever have a problem with a joint remelting. I only lay the iron down for maybe two or three seconds... most of the time the already soldered joints don't heat up that quick. If you use torch I can almost asure you you'll have joints remelt but with only 35watt iron its rare uless you have another joint super close to the being soldered.

If you want the best though go with some silver solder seems to work the best in these cases because it takes more heat to melt... The reason I don't use it is I can't find it in my area and it tends to be expensive.

Well here's somewhat of an update.. more like a step backwards.

I had to make a mod on the frame for 100% accuracy.... After taking some measurements I noticed that my seat and seat area was way too narrow for any driver to fit. On most pro mods the top framerail will bend in to make for more room. So I said my prayers and started bending! All went well... A new f/c cage was made for once again accuracy and room for the fantasy driver. I also scratchbuilt a new seat for it as well. Has some curve to it for the what would be drivers shoulder area.

I also layed down some paint... the color is Model Masters Steal... looks like that will be the main color for the frame. The control arms will be chrome silver to simulate chromoly.

I also have changed my plans with the engine.... I'm going with a blown "Semi" Hemi... which is a Chevy Hemi! A blower shroud will be made for the hood area.

Here are the pics:

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Heres a pic of the real frame, notice how the top rails bend in. I only did the drivers side on mine.

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I'll finally start the tub work tomorrow!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok well heres a big update:

I finally got tubs in and a floor... there are still panels to be made obviously to complete the tubs and metal work.

Everything fits pretty good...no gaps.

Next week I should pick up the pace some... there is still a crapload of work left, lol... but I love it! I know it seems far a way now but I would like this one done by Dec. 1st.

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I was doing a quick mock up today to check the stance and stuff and I finally decided the original wing was not doing it for me... you guys might of liked it but for me it really didn't show my best work. So I ripped it off in frustration and made myself something a little more innovative. This is what I came up with... I like it much better. The cool thing is is it really works too. I made it so the center could move.. There is still some clean up work left..

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Heres a quick video of it in action!

http://s72.photobucket.com/albums/i175/Sti...nt=MVI_1142.flv

Back to metal work now, lol!

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THE ENGINE HAS ARRIVED!

Here she is... ALL METAL, the parts are great, fit is great, the whole friggin thing is great! It also came with pulleys, a belt, and a prewired magneto. I'm in love with it. I need to make a quick trans swap later... remember this is a t/f engine so the trans is a no can do. Now since this a blower it'll need a blower shroud which I ordered from TEM already... so say goodbye to that little wimpy cowl induction scoop.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The firewall is now 100% complete. Overall it is made up of 14 individual pieces. Real tig welds were simulated through out the whole firewall, they show up better under paint especially the steel color.

The center piece of the firewall may look strange to some so let me explain.... The bell housing will bolt onto the front piece of the firewall where the small hole is and when I say bolt I mean I'm actually using tiny nuts and bolts... on the other side the 3 speed trans will bolt on to that side, a small shaft will ensure the two pieces line up.

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I ordered a new airbrush as well just to paint this project! Should arrive next week, until then nothing is getting painted except for some quick coats of primer. I haven't had much time to work on this, the last couple days here have been just way to nice to sit inside and model.

2 Weeks ago I added a blower shroud. This was an idea I had for another project about year ago. I took a L88 scoop off a 69 Vette and then just molded into the front clip. I only want the blower scoop exposed like on Jim Oddy's Pro Mods

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Not sure if I already said this here... but I plan on replicating EVERY detail on a real pro mod car from a parachute lever to a chassis certification sticker. I know it looks kind of empty right now but get ready! If it ever gets done I'm hoping to get into the mag.

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Well heres the near completed fuel/oil tank. Thanks to info from a friend of mine who works on real pro mods, I was able to kill two birds with one stone. I was told on newer pro mods they just make one huge tank and split inside.

Its pretty much done all I need is a cap setup for the oil, just like the fuel one. I really loaded up on the solder inside the tank to avoid any leaks :lol:

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