hooterville75 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I recently purchased the White Cement from Testors used to put the glass into kits. I have no luck what so ever with this product. Do you have to prep the glass any special way I may not be aware of ? Could my cement be old and no good ? No reason the amount of cement I used on this last front and back windows that it should be popping out. The back didn't dry clear as well although it was dry. Any info or help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Its not the best , but I dont have that many problems with it, it takes a long time to dry, and seems like a even longer time for it to clear up I know there are better glues for windows out there, but I'll be darned if I know what they are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooterville75 Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 I was recently told that the Krystal Kleer from Microscale Solutions is like a god for glass. I think Im going to check that out. Hate to waste what I have but I can't stand this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I know there are better glues for windows out there, but I'll be darned if I know what they are I use 5 minute epoxy for all my glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Daddy Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 I use smith industries Super Gold it's a ca glue but is styrofoam safe and windshield freindly,, great stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjim Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Did you shake the Testors container before applying the glue? I use the Testors stuff all the time and never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Setzer Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I use Watch Maker's crystal cement,that I buy at Michaels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tabsscale1 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 All i have used in the last 6 years is Elmer's white School glue and haven't had any problems with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimebolt Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I usa Aleene's Clear Gel Tacky Glue. Not a problem 1, and it dries quckly, and crystal clear. You can get it at about any crafts store. Corey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miatatom Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Aleenes' is available at Walmart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AzTom Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I use Watch Maker's crystal cement,that I buy at Michaels. That is what I use as well. Most of mine are diecast and it works Great! I have a photo of the cement on my 55 Chevy wagon build in the diecast section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 (edited) The Testor's stuff is too thin for most applications. The best white glue I ever used and the strongest is Formula 560 Canopy Glue(see pic below). Most hobbyshops carry it. It's made by Pacer the maker of Zap-a-Gap super glue. I use it for allot more than clear parts. Edited October 2, 2012 by 935k3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Did you shake the Testors container before applying the glue? I use the Testors stuff all the time and never had a problem. Same here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramfins59 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I also use Elmer's glue for glass with no problems at all. I squirt a puddle on a paper plate and apply it using a toothpick around all the edges of the glass being installed. You have to let it thoroughly dry (overnight is good) before handling or moving the body. It holds very well and is stronger than you'd think it would be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MsDano85gt Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 -I usually use. Testors "clear" but yes it takes forever for it to dry fully and. Clear, -'ve actually lately been holding my windows in place and useing small tacks of hot glue in corners that hold glass quite well is clean, and makes disassembly easier if model is taken apart later on dowm the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MAGNUM4342 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I was recently told that the Krystal Kleer from Microscale Solutions is like a god for glass. I think Im going to check that out. Hate to waste what I have but I can't stand this stuff. That's the way to go. It has other uses too like guage faces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deathgoblin Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 I use the Testors glue for clear parts. I've used it to do gauge faces too. Never had any problems with it other than user stupidity (putting it on too thick). Nice thing is it cleans up with water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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