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" Building the Fat Fender 40 - - CadillacPat Style "

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“Building the Fat Fender 40 – CadillacPat Style”

Let’s build a Fat Fender you can all be proud of with a body smooth as glass.

The HotWheels Fat Fender 40 comes with a lot of baggage just like its sibling the 40 Coupe and its newest family member the 40 Ford Convertible.

Harsh heavy raised ridges crawl across the fenders front and rear,

Casting lines invade both headlights,

Long ridges, and in some cases crevasses run down the sides of the roof,

Window and wheel openings require a good filing and sanding.

If you’re lucky you get one with sharply detailed taillights that can be left on the casting and painted.

In most cases the taillights are shoddily formed and are best removed.

Other than that, it’s perfect.

Here’s a shot of a stripped Fat Fender.



It doesn’t matter which issue of the Fat Fender you choose to strip, they all look the same without paint.

The casting is rough and requires about an hour of elbow grease to bring the body around to acceptable condition.

This can all be done with sandpaper but I like to start with a half round (crescent) file about 6 inches long.

Flat on one side and curved on the other this file provides perfect physical characteristics for fine-tuning the body and cleaning out the window openings and wheelwells.

Using your file,

First take down those raised ridges across the fenders, headlights and roof.

Clean up and smooth round the sides and tail end of the rear fenders.

Remove the taillights if you care to.

File smooth the wheel wells and window openings. This one step will make your Customs stand out from most that you see on the Internet.

Lightly file the front and rear window openings so as not to change their shape.

All 4 side windows can actually be opened up a little bit.

Lastly, thin down the rear tab so the painted body will slip back easily into the chassis without marring your paintjob.

When you’ve done all this, go over all your changes with 150 sandpaper and then 220.

Roll a 1” x ¾” piece of 220 sandpaper around a toothpick and further smooth out those window openings.

Curl a piece of sandpaper around your finger and smooth out your wheelwells.

Use the same curled sandpaper around a toothpick to smooth down the space between the headlights and hood.

Through all your steps of sanding and filing make sure not to touch the door handles or simulated chrome trim on the sides. Remember the point here is to retain all the body definition while still cleaning up the surface.

Once you’re satisfied with all your filing and sanding go back over the entire body with #3 Steel Wool available at Home Depot.

Be careful on the sides as you do not want to remove the door handles or simulated chrome trim.

The Steel Wool will take down all the sandpaper scratches to a fine spun metal lustre leaving just the right surface texture for good paint adhesion. Not polished but bright, clean and smooth.

Here’s the same Fat Fender from above after filing, sanding and rubbing with Steel Wool.



From the pictures you can see I’m taking my Custom a little further than some might take theirs.

I’ve drilled out my headlights for Rhinestones.

I’ve removed the running boards to accent the fenders without harming the door handles or simulated chrome trim, and,

In upcoming pics you’ll see I’ve opened up the hood to insert a BoneShaker engine.

CONTINUED (scroll down)

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Let's add in a few more Fat Fenders,

Here's one ready for Primer,

Headlights are drilled out for trademark Rhinestone inlay,

Rear fenders are glazed in for that pontoon fender effect of the '30s.



Here's an inside look of how the fenders are filled in,


Here's one Raked and Chopped awaiting a snorkel breather from one of those Nitro Muscle Machines.


Here's another,

Jewelers Saw and 1/32" Brass Rod readies the hood for a BoneShaker Engine,

Primered and shot Shimrin White, then Zenith Gold,

Entire body shot in Tangerine Candy with Aztec Gold Pearl Powder,

Taped and the upper half is shot Black then cleared with SpringTime Green Pearl Powder.

Tape is removed and its cleared entirely with HOK Urethane Enamel.

The black now shifts from Black Pearl to Green Pearl.

All Products Used Are Exclusively House Of Kolor, Of Course!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!




CONTINUED (scroll down)

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All of the Fat Fender 40's depicted here in this "Building the Fat Fender 40 Tutorial are pieces of the adjacent "Shake, Rattle, Rock & Roll" post.

Originally a 3 car set named "Shake, Rattle & Roll" that group has now grown into an 11 car compilation exhibiting several Fat Fenders, 40 Ford Coupes and a TailDragger in different body modifications.

Pictures are coming up of how the Fat Fenders shown above in this Tutorial look after the cuts are filled in with JB Weld.

But now, there's 6 of these in different paint stages in the Oven so let's stir it up with a sneak peek from the Wonderful World of Color.

Here's a Fat Fender ready for Rhinestone lights and taillights.

Primered, and based with HOK Zenith Gold.

The whole car is shot with HOK Candy Pagan Gold and Brilliant Gold Pearl-Ex Powder Pearl.

She's taped off and the upper half is lightly scuffed with ScotchBrite for good second stage paint adhesion.

Then HOK Organic Green Intensifier with Spring Green Pearl-Ex Powder Pearl is laid down on the top half.

The colors go well together and this one is moving on to further details.



Here's a Fat Fender in it's early stages with the running boards removed to accentuate the fenders.

This one is HOK Tangerine Candy over a base of HOK Platinum.

Tonight it gets taped off and shot a special mix of Candy Organic Green which will result in a subdued Candy Brownish Green from the underlying Tangerine.


Here you can see the Aztec Gold Pearl-Ex Powder in the sunlight.


More to come,


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Glad you like them AZ,

More to come!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Good stuff Pat.

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Good stuff Pat.

Thanks J,

I'll be assembling some of these and others while it's cold here in Houston.


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