Ford 427 SOHC questions

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Posted · Report post

I'm building the '33 Willys with the Ford 427 SOHC engine. The kit engine has a blower and the belt drive is strictly race. I need to add an alternator for a street car. I googled Ford 427 SOHC but still can't come with any decent pics.

It looks as if the kit front cover is covering the belt/chain that drives the cams but has a hole on either side like it wants something to be attached there - but there's nothing in the kit.

I'm just confused and would appreciate some assistance.

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Posted · Report post

If I recall, FatBrian knows these engines pretty well. Oh Brian.........

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Alternator down low under the red coil...

Ford_427_SOHC_Thunderbird.jpg

...street water pump, pulleys and alternator and bracket...those bolted plates on the front cover are access to cam-chain idlers / tensioners and could POSSIBLY mount an alternator off to the side of a blower belt, driven by the chain itself...

427-FE-SOHC-H-1.jpg?1273443473

And an additional pic of the cam-drive chain arrangement. Judging from this and the second photo futurabat posted, it COULD be possible to drive an alternator from the chain....through one of the holes you mention in the housing.

427sohc-chains.jpg

...and another option would be to place a small drive pulley on the crank, in front of the blower-drive pulley, and drive an alternator in a manner similar to this pump...whatever it is...

427cammer-large.jpg

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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Posted (edited) · Report post

The Monogram '78 Camaro Z/28 and the older '70 Chevelle SS came with a street blower pulley set up that has the alternator belt molded in, but they're 1/24 scale. Can you show us a photo of the engine? I have the kit,but never built one.

Also, member High octane has that build in his avatar. He would be a good source for info on this kit. Maybe send him a PM?

Edited by plowboy

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Posted · Report post

some people even put the alternator on the driveshaft with the belt

John Pol

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Posted · Report post

some people even put the alternator on the driveshaft with the belt

John Pol

......which of course only charges when the car is moving, so doesn't help much in traffic, especially with the AC blowing.......

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Posted · Report post

Any blown engine can also run street equipment. The water pump and street pullys are normaly behind the blower drive, close to the block.

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Posted · Report post

...and another option would be to place a small drive pulley on the crank, in front of the blower-drive pulley, and drive an alternator in a manner similar to this pump...whatever it is...

That's a vacuum pump. Designed to evacuate the crankcase and reduce rotating drag from blowby and improve ring seal. Usually made by Moroso.

To the OP-driving the alt from the driveshaft is actually a good idea on many levels as suggested above.

Many drag cars do that because they don't idle much. It works for ProStreet guys for the same reason.

On a model, you'd be burying detail for not much visual payoff-if you could even fit it. A detail on the driveshaft or pinion snout of the rear is a great detail when displayed properly.

On 1:1 Cammers, tuners don't clutter the oil pan area or chain covers when they don't have to for maintenance.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Any blown engine can also run street equipment. The water pump and street pullys are normaly behind the blower drive, close to the block.

Well, I don't mean to seem argumentative, but in my experience.... blower drives put a large load on the crankshaft snout, and the lower drive cog needs to be as close to the front main bearing as possible. When the toothed lower Gilmer drive-cog is located as close in as possible, it may often cause interference between the blower Gilmer belt and water pump. That also means the pulleys on the crank that normally drive accessories and a water pump won't be there anymore. So, many blown drag engines don't run water pumps, or run electric pumps instead. A blower drive setup that is configured to drive a stock, street style water pump and an alternator isn't your everyday, average setup, and for maximam strength (to avoid having a large load far out on the tip of the crank snout), accessory drive pulleys should be mounted in front of the Gilmer belt drive-cog on the crank, and not between the blower drive and the front cover. This also shortens the necessary length of the shaft driving the blower itself.

"To the OP-driving the alt from the driveshaft is actually a good idea on many levels as suggested above.

Many drag cars do that because they don't idle much. It works for ProStreet guys for the same reason.

On a model, you'd be burying detail for not much visual payoff-if you could even fit it. A detail on the driveshaft or pinion snout of the rear is a great detail when displayed properly.

On 1:1 Cammers, tuners don't clutter the oil pan area or chain covers when they don't have to for maintenance."

Agreed, and it really depends if the vehicle he's building is intended to actually be a car capable of cruising in real-world conditions, or not. I was proposing ways an alternator COULD be made to work in a real-world, stop-and-go scenario.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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Posted · Report post

The thing with these engines is that they were only really used in race cars so any mounting of accessories is usually a custom job. The alternator does mount down low on the passenger side, a standard 427 water pump bolts to the cam gear cover and there is a spacer on the crank to move it's pulley further forward. You could run the alternator belt as shown above and the blower belt over it, the snout on the blower has to be extended forward to line up with the pulleys.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Jim, check out this pic. It's not a cammer but this should work out on near any blown V8. Just run a separate belt off the lower pulley.

2012-08-11193546.jpg

Edited by Jantrix

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Posted · Report post

Wow. Thanks for all the help. I believe I have it figured out now.

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Posted · Report post

Here are a couple of photos I took at the recent Corvette and Muscle Car Nationals. Maybe these would help.

DSCF2682.jpg

DSCF2681.jpg

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Posted · Report post

Thanks, Gerry.

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