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Can we see some scratchbuilt things?

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A Couple Of More Scratchbuilt Items:

An interior wall for my '77 Chevy Van that I scratchbuilt from Sheet Styrene. I had to do that, because otherwise the empty area on the inside of the body could be seen through windshield.

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For my '71 Barracuda (Jo-Han Kit) I scratchbuilt those two Fuel Pressure Regulators on the front inner fenders. They were built from different kinds of styrene tubings.

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And then door panels for my '61 Oldsmobile Wagon Custom project. They are scratchbuilt from Sheet Styrene and door handles are metal wire. Still a little Bondo work to do and window cranks are still missing, but otherwise they are done.

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Here's a dune buggy I'm working on . I modified the front suspension and added working steering .

I also made an upgraded pedal assembly with twin master cylinders for the disc brakes .

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And this is a master cylinder I made for another project because I couldn't find one in my parts boxes !

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For another project I wanted a larger diameter tire to use on some Pegasus wheels and I also wanted the look of a bias - ply tire .

So I decided to try something new and make my own !

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Here's a little something to bring this thread back down to earth. A scratch built winch.

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I also scratch built the piano hinges for the hood

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Edited by Shardik

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I can't remember if i've already put this on here but here we are, I only looked in the spares box for the wheels and tyres.and the door handles......

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Edited by PatW

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One word WOOOW :blink::blink: :blink: :blink:

I,m working on the Pacman rod and i love scratchbuilding but man here are some great projects cant find the words for it.

this is all off a ferry high standard.

Gr

Dirk

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Here's a little something to bring this thread back down to earth. A scratch built winch.

IMG_2649_zps43474165.jpg

I also scratch built the piano hinges for the hood

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IMG_2637_zps34c0fa28.jpg

Okay , you got my attention with those hinge plates .

How did you cut so many notches so evenly without distorting the brass ?

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Okay , you got my attention with those hinge plates .

How did you cut so many notches so evenly without distorting the brass ?

yeah??? !!!

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Okay , you got my attention with those hinge plates .

How did you cut so many notches so evenly without distorting the brass ?

yeah??? !!!

I sandwiched six strips of brass between two 1/8" pieces of aluminum, clamped it all in a vise then spent an hour on a bridgeport mill going back and forth with a 1/16" endmill. Note: the fingers were made about .003" narrower than the slots for clearence. It helps if you work in a machine shop ;)

Edited by Shardik

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Wow there is a lot off talent on this forum, I see some very nice things.

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I sandwiched six strips of brass between two 1/8" pieces of aluminum, clamped it all in a vise then spent an hour on a bridgeport mill going back and forth with a 1/16" endmill. Note: the fingers were made about .003" narrower than the slots for clearence. It helps if you work in a machine shop ;)

Yes, that would really help. :D

Nicely done.

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I can't compete with a lot of this work, its just awesome, but I do like to scratch up some ideas.

The chassis & running gear are all scratch under a kit Alison & '37 shed

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Again the chassis & running gear are one off with a little help from a T Bucket & a Nascar donk

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This is more of a kit bash but there was so much cutting & shutting that it felt like a scratch build

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Great idea for a thread thanks - I am getting a lot out of it

Brian

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Cadillac "Le Monstre" 24 Hours of Le Mans 1950.

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Santana Ligero CSR (Spanish Army) 1/72 scale.

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Steampunk Monocycle 1/24 scale.

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thnx guys .. :)

btw just build a simple english wheel from srap plastics with matching alu panel they are rolling

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Your concrete floor is too perfect. There should be random hairline cracks in the middle of those panels... LOL

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Your concrete floor is too perfect. There should be random hairline cracks in the middle of those panels... LOL

crazyrichard deserves a defense, especially for making that English Wheel! So here goes ... :)

First, to qualify myself, I'm a structural engineer and I've designed a few thousand concrete floors of all types, especially industrial. There is one thing about concrete, it is designed to crack ... there's not necessarily anything wrong if it does. Concrete slabs on grade are rarely intended to support machinery ... it's the machinists that think a concrete floor can support anything! (sorry richard, :) )

Concrete cracks as a result of shrinkage as the water evaporates. The groves cut into a grid, as seen in richard's floor, are called control joints and are done when the concrete is still soft. The idea is for the shrinkage cracks to develop at these thinner locations and not be so visible.

A concrete floor is only as strong as the soil it sits on. There are rigid tests to insure the soil is properly prepared. The lack of this preparation is the reason for most of the "random" cracks you see in concrete slabs as the soil settles over time and the slab sags and cracks over this soft soil.

So the lack of cracks in richard's machine shop floor signifies he had it constructed properly and may even had the slab thickened in the area of his equipment for proper support! I doubt I'll be called to investigate this floor for cracking. ! :)

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After reading thru this tread,suddenly my front spoiler seem rather pathetic :lol:

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Hey Brian, Where did you get your T body and track nose for your NASCAR rod?

They all look great.

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I have no clue how to get the photos here from my photobucket under my profile here but there is a few to see there.

If someone would like to for me please do...thanks

Edited by disabled modeler

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