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Brute Force 71 Camaro


Chas SCR

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Thanks James2, for the kind words.

@ Plowboy , Was talking about the vents from left to right side as the nose was not even close to being done at this time.

@ Mark, I know what you are saying and yes I did my research to the point that I did not pick this car as Mr Bob Bertelsen was the one who contacted me on this as I was working on Runt for Curtis. I have not seen any pics from the internet on this car or even in the magazines other then what was posted by RPM Hotrods when they took the car out west and also sent me pics of the interior parts. Bob sent me a 3 disk set of every part of the car from when it was bought to when it was done. The only out side help from him was more from DSE when they did the frame and chassis work and what parts they use.

I do have the non RS/Z28 AMT 1st issue kit and would like to use that one but there seems to be more work in getting the body to the point of even a good start compare to the new issue or even the Baldwin release body issue.

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Chas, If you did not know that it was made from a Standard before starting to build the model, then why did you write all this claiming it was made from an RS when I pointed out the discrepancy (hopefully before you were too far in to correct it)?

They did start with an RS and shorten the nose a little but also made it bigger. They move the lights from the top to the bottom under the bumper and narrow the bumper up by 1/2 of what the real one was to make this look right. The valance was also remade to fit the new mods on the car. Here is a photo of the car after this was done on all the work from the nose.

Just where did you get the info when you wrote But here is the catch, They did start with an RS and shorten the nose a little but also made it bigger.” since we now all know that it is was not built from an RS but clearly from a Standard?

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Mark, Every thing I have came from Bob him self! The info as when he started building this car he bought 2 RS, 1 ended up being red that he ran on the GG tour in 2011 that was a strip down rally autocross only car. This one he started at the same time but he did all the body work in his shop, sent it out for the frame work at DSE and then over to Area51 paint and up to RPM to have the interior done. He was hoping to keep this one like a cross between a custom show car and a autocross car. After this last season on the tour it has been taken apart and put back together intime for the World Of Wheels in Pttsburgh PA as a show car like "Runt" was built for.

I got the 1st issue AMT kit on a trade as I did not know there was a diffrent in the three kits (RS,Baldwin and 1st issue) I like the interior of the non one better as it's smooth out already and would not have to putty up the interior plus it would be easyer to do the front inner fendwells and firewall. But the chassis sucks in that kit as it's a 1 part only unlike the other being a two part.

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shapping the front vent even more. Now I have the nose short'n up on it and thin down so the brackets can be put in for the oil coolers and then fill the area back up around the grill that was a little larger then the stock one is.

Rear panel now smooth out so I can take the tail light section out of change the full panel out.

Lower valance has been cut out so I can get the running lights in place and also the new narrower bumper to be made.

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here are the rim rings, The top two are 1/3 narrower then the bottom two. The tires are also will be put into resin to fit the rings and the center parts are going to be made in resin and to fit the outer ones. This is so every thing will fit under the fenders the right way and the front fenders are the normal part where the tires and rims on pro touring cars have a problem of getting the chassis parts to fit. This opens up a full new area and can make it look right.262741_4667240372783_1936418484_n.jpg

here are the rim rings, The top two are 1/3 narrower then the bottom two. The tires are also will be put into resin to fit the rings and the center parts are going to be made in resin and to fit the outer ones. This is so every thing will fit under the fenders the right way and the front fenders are the normal part where the tires and rims on pro touring cars have a problem of getting the chassis parts to fit. This opens up a full new area and can make it look right.

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did some more resin work today and got the motor block, 4spd housing as I do not think I can find a Tremec T56 Magnum trans. But I was able to get the bell housing sanded down so every thing will bolt together. The 4spd was picked as it did not have molded in parts so I can scratch build them. The motor block may also change over to the LS7 block from the corvette kit once I get farther into this.

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The rear lower floor pans are now remove and ready to be put back in level with the top of the frame rail, This will give room for the 4 link brackets. The rear tail panel also has been remove after the full molded in rear bumper is now in place and ready to be put into putty for seem fit.

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Hood vents are now in and here is the top veiw, Rear tail panel for the tail lights and the gas cap and neck is now put in place. Door handles are remove so i can scratch build them also, Last is the start of the firewall is not in place. Had to remove the molded in part so I can replace the vents later.

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No rest for the wicked on New Years eve, Today we spend the day making 1 of two new wheel wells and they are flush to the frame and mounted on top of the frame rail to give room for the wide rear tires. Also reworked the driver side vents and clean them up and have the old firewall in place for location reasons

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Thank you for looking every one. I have been hard at work and trying to get ahead on this project knowing it will slow down real fast for a couple of months and then I can pick back up at it after May.

Floor board and chassis day, Here in the pics you can see the slot next to the frame as this is where the lower 4 link bar goes into. The frame has been lower flush with the floor in the hoop so I can add back to it where the shock connecters are located and also the 1/2 rear frame floor is drop 1/16 inch on top of the frame so this will give more room for the exhaust

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Thank you guys for the great words, I have been trying to get my brass work better and was testing this tonight as Mark Jones just makes you want to step up to trying new things as you watch his work or even see it in person.

Was able to get the fuel cell plate in tonight on the rear floor, Now I will build the frame back up also was able to do the roll pan in brass as i'm not sure if I like it or not.

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