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Yes I planned it out. I'm sure some of the order follows that of how a rear car would be built, some of it does not due to size constraints. Just as some of the subassemblies are grouped to be buildable as a model, not a real car.

I built almost the entire car already before I painted the parts. Some of the sub assemblies can be installed at any time, several are keyed to be installed in a specific order so that I can pack them all in. Some have to be done in only one order. Many of the fasteners are being made as I go to fine tune some fitment. Plus it can me a monotonous job making hundreds of bolts, washers and nuts. While I used screws to mock it up, final assembly uses bolts and fasteners that I make.

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I relocated the parking brake from the traditional location under dash to the center of the transmission tunnel; better for gymkhana trials… The handle has a knurled pattern in the rubber grip.

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.. relocated the parking brake from the traditional location under dash to the center of the transmission tunnel; better for gymkhana trials…

No doubt it works as well. Not knowing what "gymkhana" means, I did an internet search, landing right off the bat at a Youtube video titled "Ken Block's Gymkhana Five". Aargh, all that did was reinforce further how I wish the e-brake in my 1:1 car worked, period.

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The rear brake lines are installed. From the tee back for the main hydraulic calipers and from the parking brake lever to the mechanical parking brake calipers.

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I shot the front fenders yesterday and in 18 hours they are already dry enough to handle safely. The color is a mix of Tamiya Gunmetal and Testors Gloss Black enamels. I wanted a dark Gunmetal with relatively fine metallic.

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It will be done when it is. I never set a finish date for this one. But it does seem to be growing at a nice pace right now...

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Amazing work. Almost seems to be silly to nit pick, but the driver is going to need very skinny fingers to grab that parking brake handle!

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Not if you consider the handle is soft, the tunnel is padded and the there is very little tension on the lever... B)

(The space between the handle and the tunnel scales out to 1/2 inch.)

Edited by Scale-Master

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(The space between the handle and the tunnel scales out to 1/2 inch.)

That doesn't work in the real world. You need a lot more clearance than that. At the very least you'd need a cutout on the right side about 1.5-2 inches wide or more, to be able to curl your fingers around the handle.

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I disagree, did you miss the part about the padding? Also you don't need to curl your fingers around the handle to pull it out or stow it, even though the padding would allow for it.

Have you ever driven and F355 for example? It has no tension on the brake lever. Same with my Corvette, no tension until it it several inches above the console.

I think you may be unaware of how small a Seven actually is. The width of tunnel where the handle is for example only 5.4 inches wide.

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I disagree, did you miss the part about the padding? Also you don't need to curl your fingers around the handle to pull it out or stow it, even though the padding would allow for it.

Have you ever driven and F355 for example? It has no tension on the brake lever. Same with my Corvette, no tension until it it several inches above the console.

I think you may be unaware of how small a Seven actually is. The width of tunnel where the handle is for example only 5.4 inches wide.

A human being needs room to get their fingers around the handle, regardless of the tension needed to pull it up or how narrow the tunnel is. You still have to be able to grab the handle.

In your model, how do you propose a person would pull up the handle? Wrap a loop of wire around the handle and pull up?

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I've explained it twice, (maybe I'm not making myself clear to you?). It appears you have something in your mind about how you think it should be/work and you're trying to reconcile it, but it does not match what this is. If you want to have your own opinion you're more than welcome to it.

The fact is there is enough room, it scales out and the design is correct. If it were 1/1 scale my fingers would fit fine to operate the parking brake.

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This build is amazing S.M. The level of detail is amazing and spot on. Keep up the great work!

Harry P. I have to agree with S.M. on the E-Brake clearance as my Fiero's E-Brake when door is closed has .75" clearance between handle and door and .50" between handle and seat. Granted, I have relatively small hands (especially for a man of 5'6"), but a friend of mine who's hands are like a Giant's has no issue with the E-Brake's clearance (just the leg room but that's an entirely different matter).

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This is a fantastic model. So real it's got me wondering if the imagined owner would stow his jack, wheelbrace etc. so carelessly in that alloy spare wheel - after a bit of enthusiastic driving they would be flying all over the place inside the boot (trunk), knocking paint off and denting the metal. This I know from experience.

Keep up the good work!

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Thanks guys.

I guess it is hard to see in the photos, but the spare is secured to the floor of the trunk. (I too learned that lesson in my Z/28) There is even a metal reinforcement plate on the outside of the bottom of the trunk floor for the threaded rod to anchor to.

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A hold-down plate screws down onto the back of the wheel. The jack is tied tightly to the wheel with nylon cord and the tire iron is wedged in with a shop rag to keep it from rattling and scratching the rim.

Maybe this photo shows it better.

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Edited by Scale-Master

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Adjustable Brake Proportioning Valve. 14 pieces of brass…

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9 pieces of aluminum.

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Textured, painted and assembled…

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I have watched this from the beginning and have not commented. Not because I didn't want to but because I didn't know what to say. Lots of compliments and accolades have come your way, all deserved, but I did not have anything unique to say so I haven't. Well, I still don't.....lol. Maybe an emoticon is in order :wub: Thank you for taking the time and effort to share this project with us.

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Thanks John!

Brake hard lines. The small ones connect to the master; the line for the rear brakes goes into the firewall. Those are brass guides where the lines go through the body, not fittings.

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After I made the mounting hardware for the carbs and manifold I switched to making the throttle linkage.

Except for the aluminum nuts & bolts the linkage assembly is all made from sheet styrene.

So far I have the front carb mounted to the intake and the bell crank mechanism installed.

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