NormL Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Thanx for posting the 3D PDF. A little exploration around its various dusplay modes was very instructive. Did you catch the tree where you can turn components off and on? That is my favorite part or maybe being able to measure. There are some really cool 3D Andriod and iPhone apps too. The one I use is Inventor Publisher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Kron Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Did you catch the tree where you can turn components off and on? That is my favorite part or maybe being able to measure. There are some really cool 3D Andriod and iPhone apps too. The one I use is Inventor Publisher Yes I did. It's a great insight into how the object was constructed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Very nice work, Now I know what you are talking about on the Atom as it's a car not a printer machine lol You learn some thing knew every day and sitting here reading every page I see what more you are talking about. Thank you for sharing this stuff with us. Thanks for pointing out that not everyone knows what an Atom is, LOL. You would think I would already know that as every time I stop at a gas station I get pummeled with questions. I changed the thread title so that it is more representative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 How hard is it to get working steering in a 1/24th scale model with 0.5 mm gap minimums? Look at the attached and you will see how far I have gone to get it done. Using anything that resembles the stock attachments is too lose. This actually uses the slop to my advantage for up and down suspension travel. I have done a couple of motion sims and I am thinking this will work. Now the linkage! Atom Steering.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 Mirror the "special" tracks and rails for the steering to the other side. It actually does not look as bad as I thought. I am going to go to a rack and spur system for the steering actuation. That is the only system that will fit and give me the length of travel necessary to actually steer. I am also thinking I can double up on the storage spring if I add a third shaft. Never too much power! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 This. Is. Amazing. The future of scale modeling. Bring it on! Now if we can just print them already painted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 (edited) I hope you guys are finding this interesting. The Atom guys quit posting a while ago, .. it is hard to tell if they are sick of it or are just lost as to where I am going. You can print in full color, just it can only be done with a slurry that is kind of like paper mache is what I have read. It is very weak Well I can't place the rack in the stock location as there is just not enough space to get the arms to the wheels. So I was thinking that I would place it forward of the feet bulkhead. Looks like it is running into the frame, so, below the frame I will try. Edited January 26, 2013 by NormL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 I got the rack to fit close to where it actually should. So happy now! I still need to add the spines and make the gear (the disc is a place holder) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas SCR Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 Ok so let me try to under stand this. You do all this up in one drawing and then send it out and they make it to look like your drawing or do you have to put the parts together as they are done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 One print and it is done. I am trying to make a functional print and I am doing compromises to an accurate print to do that. Basically as you know you can print with a gap and if the gap is big enough the real printed parts do not touch. If you print fifty individual parts at one time that do not touch they can interact with each other. The sintered nylon is also not a dead solid if it is printed thin enough it has a lot of flexibility while still maintaining amazing strength. For instance, you can print coil springs that actually compress as a true spring should. That feature may not be unique to the laser sintered nylon, but, this is an experiment into how far it can be pushed. After the first print, I decided that if it could flex, maybe it could store energy also. That is where the ridiculous spring "engine" came from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chas SCR Posted January 27, 2013 Share Posted January 27, 2013 Ok cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) Got the steering system finish. I am a little concerned about the gaps in the linkage, but, I would be more concerned about a fixed linkage breaking. Edited January 27, 2013 by NormL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I was in the garage installing the louvered 1:1 Atom fenders and found some old model kits in the back of one of the drawers. I used to have this car and sold it two years ago. Mine was a 1965 ASA1000 that I had for twenty years, amazing little car. 97 bhp in 1965 out of 997 cc! Bizzarrini design, Ferrari manufacture. Anyway, I found two of these kits and finding them made me dig out and shoot some bad pics of my GT40 diecast. I posted the GT40 in diecast. I have made no additional headway on the model as I was working 1:1 today. I do have a personal goal to order a new print by Tuesday evening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 28, 2013 Author Share Posted January 28, 2013 I added a girdle for the shafts and did not add a third shaft last night. The complexity of the third shaft is something to be avoided when the goal is a proof of concept, well at least that is what I talked myself into. The two shafts are actually three and I need to go back in and make sure that I have left enough "walking" room so the shafts can give the gears the full room of right and left travel that they need. I didn't want to check it right after I did it as I would not catch something stupid right in my face that a day's wait would make obvious. I also added outer drive shaft support to reduce gear binding that is occurring on test mule 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 The third print is ordered! Now the two week wait begins .... February 8th Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 29, 2013 Author Share Posted January 29, 2013 This. Is. Amazing. The future of scale modeling. Bring it on! Now if we can just print them already painted! Thank you Rob and your statement has made me think a lot. The future of scale modeling, maybe, one possible future. I have been watching several threads from your best scratch builders and have been very impressed. They have a very unique skill set and the skill set to print an alternative to what they are fabricating is also a very unique skill set. I don't see their skill set not being utilized because someone can now print something similar. I see merit and pleasure in looking at and reviewing both. The best outcome will materialize from utilizing both. As I think we all know, printing is not pushing a button as you do have to understand fit, constraints and the 3D mathematics to get there. Yes, there are programs that make it a lot easier, but, that does take time. We can all assume that the programs and printers will get better and are frankly amazing where they are now. Don't think that a CNC home lathe or mill is not going to show up some time either. I look at the Caterham posted in a different thread and am stunned by what can be scratch built, is the awe caused by the ability of someone being able to do that going anywhere? er, ... no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scale-Master Posted January 29, 2013 Share Posted January 29, 2013 CNC mills are in some modelers homes now. Sherline offers a nice one. (I still like doing it the old fashioned way...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted January 30, 2013 Author Share Posted January 30, 2013 OK, cool! Did a trip around Google, very nice stuff. I kind of got caught in that loop of, OK that's cool, ...now how much for the next step and how cool is that? I can tell that you like the old fashioned way as it was your Caterham I was referring too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 (edited) Got the new prints today and sorry, ... the jack is way cooler than the Atom. This thing is just so small and all the wheels rotate and the the back ones spin and it go up and down and it holds the car up and my thumb is at least eight times its size. Edited February 7, 2013 by NormL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 The 1/24th scale Atom frame is done. It now has working suspension, the ability to roll and working steering. The energy spring is still not functional, OK it works, but, the release mechanism is not achievable and there is still too much binding between shafts. I am going to be completely absorbed with work and movement on some full sized CNC's and prints, so, I am done with this for a while. If I come back to it I will finish the spring and add body panels to a non-functional accurate portrayal of the car. I will place just the working frame up on Shapeways in the next little bit. There will be a version for the way I did it with Pegasus tires (1601's and 1603's) and a version with printed (hard) tires. These are not something to give a child as they will break, they are for adult children. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 This is all very awesome, especially the way everything fits together and works in one pass, like the jack, but what issues do you face when it comes to painting the separate parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 Skip, I was being somebody that wanted to print all at once and see if I could make movement. That worked awesome and I learned a few new things doing it. Had some fun and I think the car as it is now can be great for what it is a static print that moves. I have to think that the jack would be painful at best to paint, but, jacks are all spray painted the same color from the factory so maybe not. Maybe when i come back to this and make the non moveable accurate version I should sprue it. Good point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dys Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I've been doing Solid Works now for my company for years and stumbled across Shapeways. I drew up some rims and submitted them. The price was very cost prohibitive, so I've been looking for ways to make them more simple in design. How are you figuring your tolerances to get your printing done in one shot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted February 7, 2013 Author Share Posted February 7, 2013 If you are speaking of 1:1 prints, yes each fender print was costing me in excess of $600. That is why I bought a CNC. These little prints that I show here don't cost much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NormL Posted February 9, 2013 Author Share Posted February 9, 2013 I think the best way to see how I handled the tolerances, is to download the jack pdf on page 4. You can turn off and on various components and see how it was handled to make it actually work. I did it in Inventor which is very similar to Solid Works as they are both designed for this type of work. Each material has a minimum gap that must be maintained. The jack 's gaps are well over this number stated by Shapeways. I did this as on the Shapeways forums is was stated that you actually needed more with their FUD material. For a couple of hours of work, the jack is just cool (yeah, I am happy with myself on this one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.