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Plasti-Zap; any better?

13 posts in this topic

Posted · Report post

I don't notice much difference between this and regular Zap CA on styrene as far as grip goes.

Bottle cement grips as well but is slower.

What's your experience with this?

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Posted · Report post

Thanks for your take. Does not seem to be many users.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I use Gorilla Glue brand super glue. Zap seemed to cure to quickly in the bottle and always clogged. Maybe it is just a gimmick aimed at modelers but is the same stuff?

EDIT: I went to their website. By viewing the MSDS it is a slightly different formulation. SO I was wrong.

Edited by Blown03SVT

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Posted · Report post

I use Gorilla Glue brand super glue. Zap seemed to cure to quickly in the bottle and always clogged......

and it's available almost everywhere. with my lhs 25 miles away, it makes a difference on sunday afternoon if i run out.

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Posted · Report post

If I understand correctly, you are asking of anyone has used both Plasti-Zap (orange label) and Zap-CA (pink label) and can compare the two, correct?

Here are the CA-glues in question: http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap-brand-products/zap-glues

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Posted · Report post

If I understand correctly, you are asking of anyone has used both Plasti-Zap (orange label) and Zap-CA (pink label) and can compare the two, correct?

Here are the CA-glues in question: http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap-brand-products/zap-glues

Well yes. But I've used both and see little difference. And I honestly like bottle glue for hold but it doesn't set instantly.

I also use the thin Zap, and the medium gap filling too. I fill seams with that and sand.

Just wondered what the consensus is.

I do find a short shelf life if you leave them open continuously while working.

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Posted · Report post

I buy the Gorilla Glue because it fairly cheap, doesn't clog, and in most cases doesn't fog. I also use brushable super glue. Its purple in color, thin, and cheap (I think it's crazy glue brand). It has is own brush which makes for easy application for MOST tight areas. I will fog but not too bad. So far nothing that cannot be taken care of with a damp cotton swab. I also keep some plain old LHS Zip Kicker with a crappy old fine brush for INSTANT bonding, as well as a bottle of cheapo LHS de- bonder just in case. I buy cheap glue because they all will harden fairly quickly IMO.

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Posted · Report post

Thanks all for the good info.

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Posted · Report post

I've used both, and I've experienced the same problems reported here by others (clogging, fogging, etc.). I've had similar results to Zap with Loctite brand super glue, which is why I no longer use either. B) For me, it's tough to beat The Original 'Super Glue' brand stuff. It's available in packs of two for $1 at Dollar General (I have heard some DG stores sell three packs for the same price but I can't verify that), in regular and thick viscosities. It works as well as the Loctite stuff I used to use for less than 1/3 the cost, the tips clog rather infrequently, but I will say that fogging can be a 'hit or miss' issue with this brand. Even if there is not a DG in the area you should be able to find it- I've even seen it sold at 24 hour gas stations, though the price is significantly more at such a place than it would be at a discount or grocery store.

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Posted · Report post

Good tip about cheap CA. I avoid the fogging bug by simply not using any CA near clear styrene.

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Posted · Report post

Good tip about cheap CA. I avoid the fogging bug by simply not using any CA near clear styrene.

I've had it fog plating and paint, too. Not frequently, but it does happen every so often. Heck, the Loctite would fog the area of the workbench where you sat the tube or bottle... even with the cap sealed tightly and no leaks evident in the container itself. B)

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Posted · Report post

My preferance is Poli-Zap. It is formulated for the R/C guys to glue their lexan bodies back togeather. For the plastic model it has several advantages.

First and most important to me, I have never had it fog clear or chrome parts!

Second, it is a little thicker, but not as thick as zap a gap, so it will fill as well as bond and it is a little slower to cure.

Third, it seems to last forever. I started marking my bottles with the date I bought them and I have had them last up to three years on the bench. Part of that I think can be atributed to the fact that I clean the cap and tip with a little acetone from time to time to keep a good seal.

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Posted · Report post

My preferance is Poli-Zap.

I started marking my bottles with the date I bought them and I have had them last up to three years on the bench. Part of that I think can be atributed to the fact that I clean the cap and tip with a little acetone from time to time to keep a good seal.

Thanks Pete, I'll try that. I always clean the bottle tips with debonder.

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